全棉貢緞提花面料的冷軋堆生產技術

徐華君　陳萬明　王力　張永高　史元慶　章金芳

摘要：針對全棉貢緞提花面料生產時能耗高、水耗大的問題，采用冷軋堆工藝對其進行前處理和染色，優化了冷軋堆工藝條件。結果表明：冷軋堆前處理后織物白度達到86%，毛細效應達到12.3 cm/30 min，冷軋堆染色織物的染色效果與高溫染色效果基本一致。經生產統計，每萬米全棉貢緞提花染色面料采用冷軋堆工藝較傳統高溫工藝能耗降低30%，水耗降低35%，節能減排效果顯著。

關鍵詞：全棉貢緞提花;冷軋堆前處理;白度;冷軋堆染色;K/S值

中圖分類號：TS192文獻標志碼：A文章編號：1009265X（2022）03017907

Study on the production technology of cold padbatch for

cotton satin jacquard fabric

XU Huajun， CHEN Wanming， WANG Li， ZHANG Yonggao，

SHI Yuanqing， ZHANG Jinfang

Abstract： In order to solve the problems of high energy consumption and large water consumption during cotton satin jacquard fabric production， the cold padbatch process was adopted for its pretreatment and dyeing， and the process conditions were optimized. The result indicates that the fabric whiteness under the pretreatment of cold padbatch process reaches 86%， with a capillary effect of 12.3 cm/30 min. The dyeing effect of fabric treated by cold padbatch process is basically the same as that of hightemperature dyeing. According to production statistics， compared with traditional hightemperature process， the energy consumption for 10，000 meters of dyed cotton satin jacquard fabrics through the cold padbatch process is reduced by 30% and water consumption is reduced by 35%， and the effect of energy saving and emission reduction is significant.

Key words： cotton satin jacquard fabric; cold padbatch pretreatment; whiteness; cold padbatch dyeing; K/S value

全棉貢緞提花面料手感柔軟、平滑細膩，光澤感和透氣性強，是極具市場競爭力的高檔服裝面料之一，深受消費者青睞[12]。全棉貢緞提花織物坯布緊密厚實，夾雜在纖維芯層的雜質難以去除，采用高溫退煮漂一浴前處理后其白度和毛效往往達不到染色工藝要求，因此，生產上一般需對其進行絲光處理后再染色[35]，然而該工藝路線長、能耗高、水耗大，大大降低了印染企業的效益。與此同時，全棉提花貢緞面料在高溫浸染染色中易出現擦傷、折皺等問題，嚴重影響了產品品質。

冷軋堆工藝具有節能減排、不擦傷織物的優點，該工藝不僅減輕了企業負擔，也符合綠色發展的生態環保要求，因此，冷軋堆工藝在棉織物的生產應用中受到廣泛關注[69]。冷軋堆在中厚棉織物的前處理中取得了很好效果[1011]，但該工藝應用到緊密的貢緞提花織物加工時，車間生產時常出現因除雜不徹底而引起染色品質不穩定等問題。……