2020年的波爾多和它的典型性

David Allen MW

葡萄酒大師（Master of Wine）；全球用戶數(shù)量最多、影響力最大的葡萄酒信息搜索網(wǎng)站W(wǎng)ine-Searcher葡萄酒總監(jiān)。從業(yè)近30年，具有豐富的葡萄酒銷售、推廣、培訓、品鑒等方面的知識。

4月份，期酒周結束后全球各地的酒評人均發(fā)布了新年份的期酒報告。David Allen MW也在本刊公布了新一年的期酒報告，覆蓋了波爾多各主要產(chǎn)區(qū)，并針對各產(chǎn)區(qū)挑選了最優(yōu)質(zhì)的酒款。

In April, after the end of the En primeur tasting, critics from all over the world released reports on the new vintage. David Allen MW also announced the new year's en primeur report in this issue, which covering the main producing areas of Bordeaux, and selecting the best quality wines for each producing area.

嘗了部分2020年波爾多期酒樣品后我覺得挺驚訝的?42款酒里面我挑出了14款我認為是品質(zhì)出眾且嘗不到任何失誤的酒。這一年份的品質(zhì)似乎整個產(chǎn)區(qū)都表現(xiàn)得不錯，所有的主要區(qū)域都出現(xiàn)了傳統(tǒng)、具有典型性的酒款，對它們各自的風土有很好的表述。這里有幾個例子。

先從圣埃米利永的ChaUFBV-B(BGGFMJlSF說起，這款酒表達出了優(yōu)雅和柔美感，很符合圣埃米利永丘陵間那礫石主導的土壤應有的期待。它同樣展現(xiàn)出很棒的深度。活潑的紅布林水果香氣混合了更深層、更豐滿，色澤更深郁的水果氣息?除開它們，豐富的新橡木桶香氣也主導著味覺體驗。

在波美侯，Chateau Gazin是一款源于當?shù)仫L土葡萄酒的教科書般例子，它的酒色深郁帶紫羅蘭的質(zhì)感。豐滿、黑櫻桃和波森莓組成的果香間夾雜著松露及泥土的芳香。它既豐滿又粗糙，水果的香氣直到最后依然活潑。

位于格拉芙佩薩克-雷奧良村的史密斯拉菲特酒莊的紅葡萄酒呈現(xiàn)典型的堅實，有結構和內(nèi)斂的感覺。然而Chateau De Fieuzal的紅葡萄酒則以馥郁成熟、濃郁和干凈的新雪松橡木桶香更奪人眼球。

至于梅多克，Chateau Poujeaux展現(xiàn)出特別干凈、清爽的黑加侖香氣及優(yōu)雅的綠葉香氣，這中度酒體的葡萄酒讓人難以置信地和諧?特別是對于一款明顯以赤霞珠主導的葡萄酒來說。如果它的價格合理的話，那這會是這個年份里最有價值的葡萄酒之一。

歷年來都很喜歡瑪歌村的Chateau d’Issan。一直以來它都是一款優(yōu)雅且香氣馥郁的瑪歌葡萄酒，2020年份更是如此。違反直覺的是瑪歌村是梅多克地區(qū)最南部的主要區(qū)域，但它卻是整個地區(qū)里最涼爽的，出產(chǎn)更輕盈、更優(yōu)雅、更活潑的赤霞珠主導的葡萄酒。這款酒有著經(jīng)典的花香（紫羅蘭）。水果香氣方面主要由紅色水果（紅莓）還有黑醋栗組成?在活潑的酸度下兩者都顯得充滿活力并帶來了悠長而和諧的余味。

圣朱利安有著許多存續(xù)了很久的酒莊。Chateau Beychevelle, Chateau Talbot,Chateau Langoa Barton, Chateau Léoville Barton 還有 Chateau Léoville Poyferré等均體現(xiàn)了圣朱利安的典型特征，混合了新鮮的黑色水果還有更寬廣更豐厚的紅色水果香氣，并有著出色的結構。就拿龍船莊作為例子，它的深郁酒色顯示它是一款強烈而清爽的葡萄酒，呈現(xiàn)了黑色水果，黑醋栗、黑莓及布林等的觸感。這款酒的質(zhì)感柔軟，結構細膩并和雪松/香草等橡木香氣很好地融為一體。

Pauillac出現(xiàn)了一款出眾的葡萄酒：Chateau Pichon Comtesse de Lalande，頗具它所在風土的典型性，風格上相較于產(chǎn)區(qū)北部葡萄酒所呈現(xiàn)的經(jīng)典黑加侖風格，它更接近圣朱利安產(chǎn)區(qū)的葡萄酒。酒莊的葡萄園靠近圣朱利安，其中有一小塊位于圣朱利安的田被允許參與混釀，所以這也不奇怪。女爵堡質(zhì)感絲滑，帶有成熟、堅實、濃郁的水果內(nèi)核。它平衡的余味持續(xù)時間非常長。

而我真心喜歡的是St-Estephe的Chateau Phélan Ségur，這款酒展示了這片略為溫暖的產(chǎn)區(qū)上所有的典型成熟、帶泥土氣息的深色水果香氣，融合了細膩的結構感，綠葉般的清爽以及可愛的水果稠密感。

上面帶大家一瞥波爾多2020年份葡萄酒，揭示了橫跨波爾多的眾多產(chǎn)區(qū)里都出現(xiàn)了非常吸引人的葡萄酒。這一年的葡萄酒和諧而經(jīng)典，帶有清爽的酸度，活潑的水果香氣，細膩的單寧及平衡的酒精度。很多葡萄酒都擁有稠密的水果香氣使得它們可以極好地陳年，同樣也使得它們在整個生命周期里都顯得誘人和易飲。

Having tasted some 2020 Bordeaux enprimeur samples I was impressed - of 42 wines tasted I identified fourteen I thought outstanding and didn’t taste any failures. Quality from the vintage seems consistently high across the region, with all major communes producing classic, typical wines,expressive of their terroirs. Here are a few examples.Starting with ChUFBV-B(BGGFMJlSF in Saint-Emilion, this wine managed to show an elegant and suppleness,expected from vineyards on the limestone-dominated soils of Saint-Emilion’s Cotes. It also showed excellent depth. Lively red-plum fruit combined with deeper, richer, darker fruits -without them or the plentiful new oak dominating the flavours.

In Pomerol, Chteau Gazin was a textbook example of a wine from the commune, it was deeply-coloured with a velvety texture. Rich, dark-cherry and boysenberry fruit was laced with truffles and earthy flavours. It was both rich and rustic, the fruit staying lively to the end.

From Pessac-Léognan, in the Graves,Chteau Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge was typically taught, structured and reserved,however Chateau De Fieuzal Rouge stole the show with its opulent ripe, dense wine packed with clean new cedary oak.

On the Medoc, Chteau Poujeaux displayed spectacularly clean, fresh blackcurrant/cassis aromas with delicate leafy notes, this mid-weight wine was incredibly harmonious -JOBMJOFBS Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated style. If it is reasonably priced this could be one of the great value buys of this vintage.

A perennial favourite from Margaux is Chteau d’Issan. Always an elegant and perfumed Margaux, the 2020 was especially so. Counter-intuitively as it is the southern-most of the Medoc’s principal communes, Margaux is the coolest of the principal terroirs, producing lighter, more elegant and lifted Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated wines. This has classic floral (violet) aromas. The fruit characteristics are primarily of redfruits (redcurrant) and then cassis - both enlivened by lifted acidity that gives a long harmonious finish.

St-Julien has numerous highly-consistent properties. Chteau Beychevelle, Chteau Talbot, Chteau Langoa Barton, Chteau Léoville Barton and Chteau Léoville Poyferré all showed great St-Julien typicity, combining fresh black fruit with broader, more generous red-fruit flavours and excellent structure. To take one of these as an example Beychevelle whose deep dark colour led to an intense,fresh wine, showing dark-fruit, cassis,blackberry and plummy touches. The wine’s texture was smooth, its structure fine and cedary/vanilla oak was well-

One outstanding wine From Pauillac was Chteau Pichon Comtesse de Lalande which showed typicity of its own terroir,in a style closer to that of St-Julien than the classic lean cassis/blackcurrant style shown by wines from the North of the commune. The estate’s vineyards border St-Julien, with one small plot in St-Julien being permitted in its blend, so this is not surprising. The Pichon Lalande was silkytextured, with a ripe, firm, dense fruit core. The wine’s balanced finish was very long.

A real favorite however was the St-Estephe property of Chteau Phélan Ségur, which delivered a wine possessing all the ripe, earthy dark-fruits typical of this slightly warmer commune, combined with a fine structure, leafy freshness and lovely fruit-density.

The above glimpses of Bordeaux’s lineup from 2020 demonstrate is that plenty of very attractive wines were made in communes right across Bordeaux. The wines are harmonious and classic with fresh acidity, lifted fruit, fine tannins and balanced alcohols. Many wines have a fruit density that will allow them to age superbly, but which are likely to be attractive and approachable throughout their lives.