米拉格里托梅斯卡爾酒釀酒坊，圣地亞哥德馬塔特蘭，瓦哈卡，墨西哥

建筑設計：安布羅西-埃切加雷事務所

1 鳥瞰/Aerial view

遺產：（1）將某物傳給后人的行為。（2）留給或傳給后代的東西。

梅斯卡爾酒：源自納瓦特爾語“mexcalli”（烹制的龍舌蘭葉），由“metl”（龍舌蘭）和“ixcalli”（烤制）組成。傳統墨西哥酒精飲料，由龍舌蘭屬植物蒸餾釀成。

酒坊：與梅斯卡爾酒釀造有關的物理空間

梅斯卡爾酒的釀造在瓦哈卡是一個具有重要意義的傳統。市場和產品需求的增長使得當地釀酒商不得不為維持手工釀酒法努力。大量關于梅斯卡爾酒的用途、知識和習俗流傳至今，并在日常生活和儀式中會經常用到。

阿瓦德一家釀造梅斯卡爾酒已歷經三代。吉列爾莫·阿瓦德用的是他父親和祖父傳下來的知識，同時也在融合現代化的視野，以維持不斷增長的市場所需的產量。為了讓家族儀式與傳統匯聚一堂，翻新核心空間就成為了一個新的需求。

最小的兒子在婚后繼承的家宅被稱為“大房子”。這也是他父母和祖父母三世同堂的房子，而維系這個家族的就是釀造梅斯卡爾酒的家族產業。每種酒的背后都有一位釀酒大師，負責在釀酒過程中延續繼承下來的傳統和直覺。阿瓦德一家都住在“大房子”里，而維系了他們70 年生計的釀酒作坊就在房子后面。

2 龍舌蘭屬植物/Agave plants

委托項目的核心是翻新釀酒空間，滿足出口的標準，并維持傳統的場所、家庭和手工生產。

項目從組織釀酒的各個階段開始，讓生產過程圍繞世代相傳的土灶展開。這個空間被一系列就地取材、壓實的土墻包圍。中心區是項目的核心，也是釀酒不同階段的分流點。通過這種方式，項目延續了從這種美酒、從大地，以及從釀造梅斯卡爾酒數十年的傳統家族中傳承下來的儀式。有幾個空間是專門為釀造梅斯卡爾酒的特定功能設計的。房子后部是酒坊的主要加工區和檢查釀酒酵母和種子的試驗室。臨街的前部是裝瓶區。最后，在房子中心天井處設計了一個品酒廳。所有的建筑都由混凝土板、壓實土墻、混凝土結構框架和一些鋼構件建成。

酒坊

項目第一階段造價為160 萬墨西哥比索。項目的第一階段由墨西哥政府的農牧業農村發展漁業和食品部（SAGARPA）的小生產商補助提供資金。這項激勵措施為生產者提供了50%的聯合投資。

施工共持續了30 個月，期間多家當地承建商進行了工程管理。整個過程由于管理問題曾中斷6個月。

為項目添彩的是，承建商提供了各種本地技術，比如預制混凝土水箱和混有石灰的壓實土墻。不過，項目在施工中還存在不足，比如鋼筋混凝土體系、預制托梁和筒拱天花，以及一般安裝誤差。□（尚晉 譯）

3 總平面/Site plan

4 實景/View of the Palenque

項目信息/Credits and Data

地點/Location: Santiago de Matatlán, Oaxaca, Mexico

客戶/Client: Mezcales Milagrito

主持建筑師/Principal Architects: Jorge Ambrosi, Gabriela Etchegaray

設計團隊/Design Team: Gerardo Reyes

材料及結構/Material and Structure: 混凝土及夯土墻/Concrete and rammed-earth walls

建筑面積/Floor Area: 360m2

造價/Cost: 3,000,000 MXN（約1,079,000 CNY）

設計及建造時間/Design-Built Time: 2012-2016

攝影/Photos: Onnis Luque (fig.1,2,9), Rafael Gamo (fig.4-6,8,10-12)

5 實景/View of the Palenque

6 墻體局部/Wall detailed view

Legacy:

1. The action of transmitting something down to other people.

2. Something that is left or transferred across generations.

Mezcal:

1. (From náhuatl mexcalli, "cooked leaves of maguey", from metl "maguey" and ixcalli "baked")

Traditional Mexican alcoholic beverage elaborated from the distillation of the agave plants.

Palenque:

1. Physical space where activities related to the production of Mezcal take place.

Mezcal production is a tradition of great importance in Oaxaca. The expansion of the market and demand for the product has created a struggle among local producers to maintain an artisanal method of production. There exists an extensive legacy of uses, knowledge, and customs surrounding mezcal that are used daily at social and ritualistic levels.

The Abad family has produced mezcal for three generations. Guillermo Abad uses the knowledge inherited from his father and grandfather while also integrating visions of modernization to maintain a level of production demanded from the growing market. Through this arose the necessity to renovate the spatial core where the familial rituals and traditions converge.

The family home that was inherited by the youngest son after his marriage is named the "Casa Grande" (Big House). This is the same house were his parents and grandparents lived throughout the rest of their lives in a multi-generational community sustained through the family business of making mezcal.Behind each product there is a master mezcalero, who is responsible for maintaining the continuity of production in line with the traditions and intuitions acquired.The Abad family lives in the "Casa Grande", and the production that has maintained them for over 70 years rests at the back of the property.

The commission centered on renovating the production spaces in such a way that the exportation standards could be met while maintaining the traditional place, family, and artisanal production.

The project began with organizing the distinct stages of production around the earth oven that has located in the same place throughout the multiple generations.This space is contained by a series of compressed earth walls made from the dirt excavated at the site.This central area functions as the heart of the project and the point of distribution for the different phases of production. In this way the Project embodies the ritual inherited from the drink, from the earth, and from the traditional families that have produced Mezcal throughout the decades. There are several spaces geared toward specific functions involved in the production of mezcal.At the rear the main operational area of the Palenque and a laboratory for conducting investigations on brewer's yeast and seeds. At the front, against the street, is the bottling area. Finally,a tasting pavilion has been proposed in the central patio of the house. All the structures are made up of concrete slabs, compressed earth walls, concrete structural frames, and some steel elements.

The Palenque

The total cost of the first phase was 1.6 millon MXN. The first phase of the project was financed through a government grant from SAGARPA for small producers. The incentive offered a plan of coinvestment of 50% with the producer.

The construction lasted a total of 30 months,during which various local contractors managed the job.The process was stopped for a duration lasting 6 months due to administrative problems.

Enrichment of the project came when contractors offered local technologies such as precast concrete cisterns, and compressed earth walls mixed with lime. Still the project suffered shortcomings in construction such as with the reinforced concrete system, the precast joist and vault ceilings, and general installations errors.□

7 首層平面/Ground floor plan

8 實景/View of the Palenque

9 生產過程/Production process

評論

戴維·巴蘇爾托：梅斯卡爾酒在世界上廣為人知，它由野生的龍舌蘭制成，其生產設施通常規模較小，分散在各地，并始終堅持采用傳統技術。米拉格里托梅斯卡爾酒釀酒坊保留了梅斯卡爾手工釀造的環境條件，并在其建造過程中，通過對混凝土及釀造龍舌蘭多年的土灶的泥土的混合使用，體現它的精神。最終這里呈現出的是一座高質量的現代設施，忠實體現梅斯卡爾手工釀造的工藝，不僅在其墻體上以象征的方式反映梅斯卡爾酒的本質，更重要的是，通過對氣味的塑造，激活人們對它的感性認識。（龐凌波 譯）

路璐：合院的居住類型平面容納了一套作坊式的釀酒制作流程，墻體與柱列沒有明確區分室內和室外空間。樸素且克制的結構形式，以及傳統材料筑成的墻體，讓這座建筑超越了時代潮流。這里看不到墨西哥建筑師曾經的激情，卻能感受到他們當下的冷靜。熱帶氣候下的墨西哥現代建筑，在各個層面打破了室內和室外的界限（與封閉的盒子相對），曾為20世紀的現代主義建筑做出巨大貢獻，而反過來，我們也可以用這一特征去反觀當下的墨西哥建筑，從而對其身份進行辨識。

10 生產過程/Production process

11.12 實景/Views of the Palenque

13 剖面/Section

Comments

David Basulto: The Mezcal spirit, which is becoming widely known across the world, comes from the wild agave, with the production facilities often being of small scale, scattered throughout the territory and still using traditional techniques.The Milagritos Mezcal Pavilion stays true to the artisanal condition of mezcal and embodies its spirit in its construction,by using a mix of concrete and earth coming from the excavated earth ovens where the agave has been cooked for years. The result is a modern facility with high standards that stays true to the artisanal production of mezcal, embodying the essence of the spirit in its walls not just in a symbolic way, but also through the smell that it projects, activating the senses.

LU Lu: The courtyard contains a wine-making workshop, and the wall and pillar lines did not clearly divide the space into indoor and outdoor. The plain and restrained structural form and the wall made of traditional materials bring the construction beyond its time. The passion of Mexican architects cannot be seen here, replaced by their restraint at the time. The modern Mexican architecture in the tropical climate breaks the border between interior and exterior space at every level (compared with closed boxes). It has made significant contribution to modern architecture in the 20th century,and reversely, now we can use this feature to observe the Mexican architecture at present so as to recognise their identity. (Translated by QIAN Fang)