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杭州南宋德壽宮遺址博物館外的紅墻成為一道亮麗風(fēng)景線。肖奕叁/攝The red walls around the Southern Song Dynasty Deshou Palace Ruins Museum have been attracting throngs of visitors. Photo by Xiao Yisan.

文化要在保護(hù)中傳承，在傳承中發(fā)展。

宋韻今輝，一脈相承！11月18日，“2022宋韻文化節(jié)開幕暨南宋德壽宮遺址博物館開館儀式”在杭州舉行。從11月22日起，德壽宮遺址博物館向公眾免費(fèi)開放，媒體謂之：“紅墻灰瓦，采一縷千年宋風(fēng)，共赴宋韻文化時空之約，用全新的風(fēng)貌與世人再度相會。”

“宋韻”這個詞，是文學(xué)化的形象表達(dá)，是修辭中的借代，借“宋韻文化”代“宋代文化”，尤其是“南宋文化”。地處杭州城南的“臨安城遺址”，正是南宋留給杭州最大的文化遺產(chǎn)。鳳凰山麓的宮城、望仙橋東的德壽宮，一南一北，作為皇帝和太上皇帝的活動中心，分別號稱“南內(nèi)”與“北內(nèi)”，是臨安城最具歷史象征意義的文化標(biāo)識。

1984年，德壽宮遺址首次被發(fā)現(xiàn)，先后經(jīng)歷4次較大規(guī)模的考古發(fā)掘。德壽宮原本是宮苑，即宮殿與園林并置，從營造法式看，是典型的江南屋宇與園林的集大成之作。依托考古遺址，德壽宮遺址博物館于2020年12月開工復(fù)建，努力還原宮苑原貌；德壽宮外那一抹“宮墻紅”，已然成為杭州新晉網(wǎng)紅打卡點。而更珍貴的是，地下考古遺址的保護(hù)性展示以及南宋文物的展陳，都在努力展現(xiàn)南宋歷史文化的全貌。

南宋德壽宮遺址博物館地處中河中路以東、望江路以北，南邊就是著名的胡雪巖故居。這一地塊，對于偌大杭州來說是方寸之地，當(dāng)初如果被開發(fā)了，沒有保留下來，那就沒有今天的德壽宮遺址博物館。

作家周華誠新近出版的文化散文《德壽宮八百年》一書，從德壽宮出發(fā)，去追尋那遠(yuǎn)去的南宋風(fēng)雅，體悟那靜水流深的宋韻精髓。其中第一章第一節(jié)就寫到：“隔著866年的時光，不同的人站在了同一塊地面上。這是一塊廢棄了多年的‘荒地’。很多老杭州人，不一定知道‘德壽宮’，但你若是問他‘杭州工具廠在哪里’，他一定會告訴你確切的方位。杭州工具廠搬離之后，這里就荒著了，年復(fù)一年長起了野草。這么一塊位于杭州市中心的地塊，居然荒蕪了許多年，有人對這塊地方的內(nèi)情不甚了解。但現(xiàn)在大家已經(jīng)知道了—這是塊寶地。”

一塊寶地為何長時間都是一塊“荒地”？就是因為要保護(hù)這里地下的歷史遺跡，而拒絕了房地產(chǎn)開發(fā)。我們不能想象，當(dāng)初如果這里被開發(fā)成了“值錢”的房地產(chǎn)，杭城的“宋韻文化”將會失去多少韻味、韻律和意韻！

沒有保護(hù)，就沒有傳承；沒有傳承，就沒有發(fā)展。宋代詩人賀亢有名句，“但存方寸地，留與子孫耕”，而今天我們可以說：“但存文化方寸地，留與子孫千秋尊。”

南宋德壽宮遺址博物館。姚穎康 呂之遙/攝The Southern Song Dynasty Deshou Palace Ruins Museum.Photo by Yao Yingkang and Lyu Zhiyao.

最可怕的就是沒文化、不識貨，不知道什么是真正重要的寶貝，在“拆拆拆”中與歷史文化遺跡“斷舍離”。遙想世紀(jì)之交，杭州城市建設(shè)過程中的“一保一撤”，可謂驚心動魄：

距離德壽宮遺址博物館不遠(yuǎn)的河坊街，當(dāng)年是要拆除的，而且已經(jīng)開拆，將其從拆改成保，是一個重大而緊急的決定，否則就沒有今天熙熙攘攘的具有代表性的杭州老街了。而今天的錢江新城地塊，當(dāng)年正在開建一個大型熱電廠，2500 多根樁已經(jīng)打下去，似乎“木已成舟”，但杭州市下決心撤掉這個熱電廠，并為此支付了巨資—試想，如果它建成投產(chǎn)的話，哪有錢江新城，哪有今天的杭州大劇院。

2022年金秋，為紀(jì)念北宋《淳化閣帖》刻成1030周年，浙江圖書館古籍部館內(nèi)碑廊的《淳化閣帖》刻石，再次進(jìn)入公眾視野。杭州市在1994年將殘存的刻石建碑廊予以保護(hù)時，并不知道這是最早的匯刻帖的原石，如果沒有保護(hù)，那真不知后果會如何。

聞一多先生曾經(jīng)說過：“文化是有惰性的，而愈老的文化，惰性也愈大。”是的，古老文化有點像“惰性氣體”，活力往往不夠 ；對于歷史文化的傳承，需要與這樣的惰性“拔河”，而保護(hù)絕不可有惰性。

文化，沉淀了對真的追求，開啟了對美的感知。作為南宋古都，杭州在實施“宋韻文化傳世工程”的過程中，當(dāng)然要“挑大梁”，不斷追求“真善美”。追尋南宋風(fēng)雅，再現(xiàn)宋韻精神，南宋德壽宮遺址博物館是一個立足點。

Song Yun, Passing on the Legacy through Protection

By Xu Xunlei

On November 18, 2022, the opening ceremony of the 2022 Song Yun Cultural Festival was held in Hangzhou the Southern Song Dynasty Deshou Palace Ruins Museum (also known as the Deshou Palace Museum) was officially unveiled at the same time.Starting on November 22, the Deshou Palace Museum has been open to the public for free.

The term “Song Yun” is a literary expression that serves as a rhetorical device, substituting for “the Song dynasty (960-1279)culture”, particularly “the Southern Song (1127-1279) culture”.“Yun” is a Chinese character that means charm of appeal.

《德壽宮八百年：追尋南宋風(fēng)雅再現(xiàn)宋韻精髓》，作者周華誠，2022年由浙江人民出版社出版。Deshou Palace in 800 Years: In Search of the Essence of Song Yun, written by Zhou Huacheng and published by Zhejiang People’s Publishing House in 2022.

Located in the south of Hangzhou, the “Lin’an city ruins” is the largest cultural heritage left by the Southern Song dynasty in Hangzhou. The palace city at the foot of the Phoenix Mountain and the Deshou Palace to the east of the Wangxian bridge, one in the south and another in the north, served as the centers of activity for the emperors and the empress dowagers. Known as “Nannei”(the southern inner court) and “Beinei” (the northern inner court) respectively, they are the most historically symbolic cultural landmarks of Lin’an city (present-day Hangzhou).

Similar to the reconstruction of Leifeng Pagoda years ago, the Deshou Palace Museum is also restored and rebuilt on the original site, but it is more of a “museum” than a “restored Deshou Palace”,which is precisely the progress of history.

In 1984, the Deshou Palace ruins were first discovered, and have undergone four large-scale archeological excavations since then. The Deshou Palace was originally a palace garden — a combination of palace and garden, and in terms of construction style, it was a typical masterpiece of Jiangnan (south of the Yangtze River) architecture and gardens. Relying on the archeological site, the construction and restoration of the Deshou Palace Museum began in December 2020, aiming to restore the original appearance of the palace garden. The “palace wall red” has become a popular spot for taking photos and checking in on social media in Hangzhou. What is more precious is that the protective display of underground archeological sites, as well as the display of cultural relics of the Southern Song dynasty, are striving to show the full picture of the history and culture of the Southern Song dynasty.

The Deshou Palace Museum is located east of Zhonghezhong Road and north of Wangjiang Road, and the famous Hu Xueyan’s Former Residence is located in the south. To the great Hangzhou,this is just a tiny plot of land, but if it was originally developed and not preserved, there would be no Deshou Palace Museum today.

Without protection, there is no inheritance; without inheritance, there is no development.

The Hefang Street, not far from the Deshou Palace Museum,was scheduled to be demolished at the time, and had already been partially dismantled. The decision to preserve it instead of tearing it down was a major and urgent one; otherwise, this busy landmark old street in Hangzhou would disappear.

The Qianjiang New City block was originally being developed into a large thermal power plant. More than 2,500 piles had been driven, and the “ship had already been built”, as an old Chinese saying goes. The municipal government decided to scrap the thermal power plant and paid a large sum of money for it. If it had been completed and put into operation, there would be no Qianjiang New City and no Hangzhou Grand Theater today.

Wen Yiduo (1899-1946) once said: “Culture is inert, and the older the culture, the greater the inertia.” Yes, ancient cultures are a bit like “inert gases”, where vitality is often not enough. For the inheritance of history and culture, it is necessary to engage in a “tug of war” with such inertia, and protection cannot be inert.

Culture has precipitated the pursuit of truth and opened up the perception of beauty. As the ancient capital of the Southern Song dynasty, Hangzhou must “choose the best” and continuously pursue “truth, goodness and beauty” in the process of implementing the “Song Yun Cultural Inheritance Project”. The Deshou Palace Museum is a foothold for seeking the refinement of the Southern Song dynasty and reviving the spirit of Song Yun.

與德壽宮一墻之隔的梧桐路。Chinese parasols line the street along the outer walls of the Southern Song Dynasty Deshou Palace Ruins Museum in Hangzhou city, Zhejiang province.