山鄉(xiāng)物語

文 /陳 野

作者團(tuán)隊在浙江鄉(xiāng)野群山中。Enjoying country life in Zhejiang.

一

初冬某日，由杭州去往德清。一路行去，見平疇清遠(yuǎn)，山巒層疊，林木錯落，村舍散布。飽游沃覽的，正是東晉王子敬“山川自相映發(fā)，使人應(yīng)接不暇。若秋冬之際，尤難為懷”的光景。幾經(jīng)曲徑幽轉(zhuǎn)，進(jìn)入一片連綿低山圍合出的谷地，于道路盡頭開啟一道竹扉，迎面而來的是一座山園。園內(nèi)有小筑數(shù)重，果樹漫坡，畦田齊整，花木扶疏。杉樹干挺葉密，拉起通透的絳色紗帳；冬日暖陽映照萬物，斑駁陸離的光線在空氣里閃爍，銀杏燦爛，竹林、桂樹暗影深重。及至斜陽西下，霞光與山色交融，頃刻變幻，紫綠萬狀。

民宿外的綠葉黃墻。Green leaves and yellow walls outside a B&B hotel.

先鋒書店的書墻。The book wall at Librairie Avant-Garde.

城里來的先生于園中開設(shè)一座書房，隨機(jī)做一些習(xí)史讀書的直播活動。既是工作之余的休憩之所，也是有心致力的文化傳播平臺。我們此行，便是與幾位來自北京、杭州的學(xué)者，在書房里舉辦以《疏影》《暗香》為創(chuàng)作題材的詩詞書畫賞鑒直播。話語之間，園里自養(yǎng)的邊牧大犬悠然而來，徑直臥于直播臺下，聽著講解安然入眠；屋外有閑散雞群，于紅、黃、綠葉夾雜的烏桕樹下四處覓食。此景此境，與陶淵明筆下的桃花源十分貼合：“土地平曠，屋舍儼然，有良田、美池、桑竹之屬。阡陌交通，雞犬相聞。”

今年仲秋，我們鄉(xiāng)村研究課題組一行回訪了曾經(jīng)駐村深度調(diào)研五年的桐廬龍峰民族村。在村里的畬族文化館內(nèi)，村民和村干部們正在為央視即將來此拍攝的紀(jì)錄片做準(zhǔn)備。所到之處，熟悉的痕跡歷歷在目，喚起親切憶念，重逢的歡快在滔滔不絕的晤談中流瀉。村里八十五歲高齡的雷依香老人，是畬歌傳承人、金牌推介人。課題組老師循著她外出購物的步履，在村道上尋到了身板硬朗、爽朗健談的老太太，與她作出記錄畬歌和創(chuàng)作畬族文化主題繪畫的約定。

到達(dá)同為畬族村落的戴家山新豐村時已近黃昏，暮靄漸起。我們在山間漫游，于村中流連。青灰色的遠(yuǎn)山層層疊疊，蜿蜒鋪展而去，盛放著無限豐富的自然細(xì)節(jié)。近山蘢翠，林長草豐，有青竹、楓香、玉蘭、紅豆杉高聳挺立，濃蔭鋪地。山道坡沿，各種作物自由生長。客舍邊的棗樹，綠葉紅果映襯著黃泥土墻，古雅明麗。循著潺潺之聲而去，但見清冽溪澗、竹籬小橋、嶙峋山石，上有農(nóng)家民宿餐廳，恰似南宋畫卷中邊角之景的高臺水榭。以“大地上的異鄉(xiāng)者”為標(biāo)識的云夕圖書館，書墻林立，足以讓人細(xì)細(xì)檢視，精挑細(xì)選，體會迥異于網(wǎng)上購書的書頁摩指之感。

頗具聲名的戴家山 · 8號民宿位于溪澗兩側(cè)，與時下的精品民宿一樣，設(shè)施、用品與布置的完備、整潔、時尚自不待言。令人欣喜的是它視野深遠(yuǎn)、風(fēng)格現(xiàn)代、任由住客自在使用的頂層活動室，以及那宛如碧璽般嵌于山地里的清澈泳池。

晚餐后，“籬落疏疏水依軒，小窗明燭透輕綃”。我們在活動室圍坐夜敘，喝茶聊天，揮毫畫虎，水墨寫竹，賦詩題詞。吟誦之間，《蘭亭集序》《陋室銘》《歸去來兮辭》等名篇，都化作了筆下的書跡。

二

這些年，我們在鄉(xiāng)村大地上走街串巷，從東部海島到西部田園，從浙南山區(qū)到浙北平原，于山野間見翠色連綿、林泉洄環(huán)，在田間地頭看青禾濃綠、稻浪翻飛，在深街淺巷觀游人如織、村顏新貌；也曾品味過黛瓦白墻里老舊衰頹的歲月留痕，感悟于老人黃昏獨(dú)坐的人生孤寂，憂心于傳統(tǒng)手藝的后繼乏人。林林總總，在在如是，近距離感受著鄉(xiāng)村的時代變遷與印跡，觀察、品味、思考著我們這個時代的鄉(xiāng)村形態(tài)和特征。

與自然山水緊密相連的鄉(xiāng)村世界，遼闊、豐盈、包容，是舒緩緊張城市生活節(jié)奏的桃源之所。那些清風(fēng)明月的山崗，那些兀自歡唱的流水，那些平遠(yuǎn)無垠的原野，那些古意盎然的村落，那些繁茂豐盛的田園，凝山川之氣，聚草木之趣，生動靈性。現(xiàn)代人于此盡享“偷得浮生半日閑”的閑適，也在時時刻刻的美的發(fā)現(xiàn)和心靈觸動中，獲得任意自由想象、激發(fā)創(chuàng)意靈感的活力淵藪。

鄉(xiāng)村的生活，透著人世間的本真。戴家山上的鄉(xiāng)居生活，是勤勉不息的耕種勞作，殷勤待客的淳樸情意，新鮮的高山蔬菜，醇厚的紅曲酒，遇人不驚、遇車不讓的犬，與客對視、若有所思的貓，春聯(lián)與燈籠織就的喜慶與祈福，處處都是陸游《游山西村》中“莫笑農(nóng)家臘酒渾，豐年留客足雞豚。山重水復(fù)疑無路，柳暗花明又一村。簫鼓追隨春社近，衣冠簡樸古風(fēng)存。從今若許閑乘月，拄杖無時夜叩門”的現(xiàn)實寫照。

樸實安穩(wěn)的日常，是于歷史中時隱時現(xiàn)、在理想中不懈追尋的美好。其間的親切溫潤來自家園故土的博愛，在“行行重行行”的人生旅程中，予人此枝可棲的依戀。

生發(fā)、沉潛、綿延于鄉(xiāng)村的文化傳統(tǒng)，為歷代文人提供著精神寄寓的原鄉(xiāng)。在他們于窮達(dá)、進(jìn)退、隱顯間的穿梭往來中，鄉(xiāng)村永遠(yuǎn)在場。我們在這山里鄉(xiāng)村所得的歡喜，便是南宋羅大經(jīng)《山靜日長》情景的印證和親享 ：“蒼蘚盈階，落花滿徑，門無剝啄，松影參差，禽聲上下……隨意讀《周易》《國風(fēng)》《左氏傳》《離騷》《太史公書》及陶杜詩、韓蘇文數(shù)篇。從容步山徑，撫松竹，與麛犢共偃息于長林豐草間。坐弄流泉，漱齒濯足……弄筆窗間，隨大小作數(shù)十字，展所藏法帖、墨跡、畫卷縱觀之。”如此的深情與意趣，讓卷軸簡冊與山色鄉(xiāng)情交相輝映，建構(gòu)起意蘊(yùn)深濃的精神傳統(tǒng)，涵育著人們熱愛和追隨文脈的天然基因，造就了人文田園綿密醇厚的不朽經(jīng)典。

作者參加雅集活動。The author attends a cultural gathering.

德清的半坡書房和文化直播，龍峰村的畬族文化館和央視紀(jì)錄片，戴家山的精品民宿與云夕圖書館，都是城市人群和當(dāng)代生活方式走進(jìn)鄉(xiāng)村的足跡，以其關(guān)注、參與和創(chuàng)造回應(yīng)鄉(xiāng)土呼喚，致力于改善鄉(xiāng)村人居環(huán)境，提供新的經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)展業(yè)態(tài)，將現(xiàn)代文明的觀念、時尚和品質(zhì)融入鄉(xiāng)村生活，陶煉、提升著鄉(xiāng)村的當(dāng)代氣質(zhì)和整體風(fēng)貌。

如上種種，呈現(xiàn)出當(dāng)下鄉(xiāng)村形態(tài)中風(fēng)云際會、光被雨潤的多重“會通”。半坡書房的直播活動，舉辦于充滿人文氣息的空間，而書房則坐落于優(yōu)美的自然山川之間，這是人文與自然的會通；直播活動的參與者、我們課題組以及央視紀(jì)錄片的拍攝者，都是來自都市的 “城里人”，而活動于鄉(xiāng)村環(huán)境，這是城市與鄉(xiāng)村的會通 ；活動內(nèi)容中的《疏影》《暗香》、詩詞吟誦、經(jīng)典解讀，有眾多古典生活的元素和意趣，它們不但得到傳承，而且還有內(nèi)容、形式和傳播手段上的創(chuàng)新，表現(xiàn)出宛如春水般碧波蕩漾的活化形態(tài)，這是傳統(tǒng)與現(xiàn)實的會通；鄉(xiāng)村文明經(jīng)過現(xiàn)代文明的陶煉和融入，獲得時尚化的品質(zhì)，這是鄉(xiāng)土與時尚的會通。

鄉(xiāng)村中也有不如人意的發(fā)展短板和不容忽視的種種問題，但更形成了立足于當(dāng)代經(jīng)濟(jì)社會形態(tài)，融合自然、古典、時尚、現(xiàn)代等要素的整體發(fā)展風(fēng)貌，體現(xiàn)了鄉(xiāng)村發(fā)展的歷史際遇、內(nèi)在邏輯和文明進(jìn)程。

三

中國鄉(xiāng)村的現(xiàn)代化進(jìn)程，與一個東方大國的現(xiàn)代化追求相伴隨，步履艱難而又波瀾壯闊。其意蘊(yùn)之豐沛，與中國生活、中國社會和中國文化深切相連。回溯中國鄉(xiāng)村自中國社會開啟現(xiàn)代轉(zhuǎn)型以來走過的興衰起伏之命運(yùn)軌跡，可謂千回百轉(zhuǎn)、曲折縈紆。數(shù)輩鄉(xiāng)民身居不同時代，應(yīng)對多重挑戰(zhàn)，以吃苦耐勞、隱忍柔韌、頑強(qiáng)進(jìn)取的品格精神，維系了村莊命脈和厚重歷史。

然而，由古至今，鄉(xiāng)村也是最缺乏歷史記載和文獻(xiàn)檔案系統(tǒng)、最難見到其在歷史進(jìn)程中完整形影的場所。即使在今天的文化場域中，相比于文化人眾聲鼎沸、各自張揚(yáng)的景象，鄉(xiāng)村以及鄉(xiāng)民并未完全獲得他們應(yīng)有的文化話語地位。所以，在享受鄉(xiāng)村生活的同時，在為鄉(xiāng)村奉獻(xiàn)的同時，我們更要為鄉(xiāng)村發(fā)聲。

Tales from the Countryside

By Chen Ye

田園風(fēng)光。Pastoral life.

On an early winter day, we set off to Deqing county, Huzhou from Hangzhou. I was impressed with the expansive farmland,mountain ranges and woods on my way there. After a few winding paths and turns, we entered a valley surrounded by low hills and saw at the end of the road a bamboo gate open into a mountain garden.

Inside the garden, there were several small buildings, fruit trees all over the slope, neatly arranged ridge-bordered plots, and sparse flowers and trees. The upright cedar trees had very dense crowns, and a transparent crimson tent was drawn up. The warm winter sun caressed everything, its diffusive rays shimmering in the air. Under the sunlight, the ginkgoes looked bright and sparkling while the bamboo forest and the laurel trees appeared dark and shadowed. When the sun sunk in the west, the color of the haze and mountain began to mix, changing instantly from purple to green and many other hues.

There was also a study set up by an urban gentleman for doing cultural-themed live streaming events. It was both an after-hour resting place and a cultural communication platform. Our purpose for this trip was to put up such a live show on appreciating poetry,calligraphy and painting with several scholars from Beijing and Hangzhou.

In mid-autumn this year, our rural research group revisited the Longfeng ethnic village in Hangzhou’s Tonglu county, where we spent five years doing in-depth field research. In the village’s culture hall, the ethnic She villagers and village officials were preparing for a China Central Television documentary to be shot here.

Everywhere we went, we saw familiar traces that evoked our memories, and were thus overwhelmed with the affection and joy of reunion. Conversing with villagers cheerfully, we found out an 85-year-old lady named Lei Yixiang was an inheritor and gold medal ambassador of She songs. A teacher from our group followed her footsteps as she went out shopping, and made an appointment with this talkative old lady to record some She songs and create some paintings on the theme of She culture.

When we arrived at the Xinfeng village in Daijia Mountain,another She village, it was almost dusk and the evening mist was rising. We roamed through the mountains and lingered in the village. The green and gray hills from a distance looked layered and winding, spreading out with an infinite wealth of natural details. The mountains nearby were lush green accompanied by growing woods and long grasses. Bamboos, maples, magnolias,and Chinese yews were tall, casting dense shade. Along the slope of the mountain road, various crops grew freely. The date palm trees by the guest house had green leaves and red fruits. Together with the yellow clay walls as the backdrop, they appeared elegant and beautiful.

If you follow the sound of gurgling, you would see a fresh stream, bamboo fences, a small bridge, jagged rocks, a farmhouse restaurant, and a waterside pavilion that looked like one from a painting of the Southern Song dynasty (1127-1279). In the Yunxi Library with a logo reading “Librairie Avant-Garde”, there were many walls of books. People could browse and examine the copies carefully to select what they wanted, a different experience from purchasing books online.

The well-known Daijia Mountain No.8 B&B Hostel was located on both sides of the stream. The facilities, supplies, and furnishings were as complete, neat, and stylish as those of a boutique B&B these days. A delightful top- floor modern activity room was also there for guests to use at their will, and a crystalclear pool was embedded in the mountain like a blue tourmaline.

After dinner, we sat around in the activity room, drinking tea and chatting. We also drew pictures of tigers and bamboo with water and ink, wrote some poems, and did some inscriptions.

Over the years, we walked the streets and lanes in the countryside, from the eastern islands to the western fields, from the mountainous areas of southern Zhejiang to the plains of northern Zhejiang. We watched the continuous emerald colors in the mountains and the meandering springs in the woods. We saw the new look of the village and also the traces of the old, decaying black tiles and white walls. We felt the changes of the times in the villages and thought about what their current forms and characters should be.

The rural world closely connected with the natural landscape is vast, abundant, and inclusive. It is a place to slow down the rhythm of busy city life — those moonlit hills, singing streams,boundless wilderness, ancient villages, and lush-green fields are massage of the mind. Modern people can take a break to enjoy leisure here. In discovering the beauty of nature, they could also get the vitality of free imagination and creative inspiration.

Life in the countryside shows the true colors of the human world. In the Daijia Mountain, everyday life means diligence,hospitality, fresh alpine vegetables, mellow red wine, calm dogs and cats, festivities and a well-wishing atmosphere. Its simple and stable essence is sometimes hidden in history and relentlessly pursued as an utmost ideal.

Local cultural traditions have also provided a spiritual abode for literati throughout the ages. Deqing’s half-slope study and cultural-themed live streaming events, Longfeng village’s She ethnic culture hall and CCTV documentary, Daijia Mountain’s boutique B&B and Yunxi Library are the footprints of urban people and their contemporary lifestyle in rural areas.

In the development of the countryside, some problems cannot be ignored. Still, the overall development style is based on contemporary economic and social forms, integrates natural,classical, fashionable and modern elements, and reflects historical opportunities, internal logic and civilizational process.

The modernization process of China’s countryside is accompanied by China’s modernization quest, with difficult but magnificent steps. Its richness of meaning is deeply connected with the life, society and civilization of this country. The trajectory of the ups and downs of the Chinese countryside since the beginning of the modern transformation of Chinese society can be described as a thousand twists and turns. Generations of villagers have lived in different times, coped with multiple challenges, and sustained the lifeblood of their villages with the spirit of hard work, patience,flexibility and tenacity.

However, from ancient times to the present, the countryside has lacked historical records and archival systems, making it hard for people to see its whole story. Even in today’s cultural arena, the countryside and the villagers have not been given their rightful place in the cultural discourse. Therefore, while enjoying the life of the countryside, we are obliged to speak out on its behalf.

鄉(xiāng)村春聯(lián)。A Spring Festival couplet.