探秘瀾滄江源頭

文、圖／韓加君

考察隊為瀾滄江源頭立碑，并宣誓守護好這條“母親江”。The expedition team erects a monument for the source of the Lancang River and vows to protect this “mother river”.

在亞洲的江河中，有一條河流被稱為“東方多瑙河”。它一水二名，源出青海省玉樹州雜多縣吉富山，在中國境內稱為瀾滄江，經云南出境后稱作湄公河，依次流經緬甸、老撾、泰國、柬埔寨、越南。

瀾滄江流經的密林、草原、深山中，生活著大量野生動物。圖為黃羊在覓食。A large number of wild animals live in the dense forests,grasslands,and deep mountains that the Lancang River flows through.The picture shows gazelle looking for food.

藏族同胞為瀾滄江之源祈福。Tibetan compatriots pray for the source of the Lancang River.

一個冬日，我跟隨考察隊伍，從青海省玉樹州雜多縣出發，去200多公里之外的吉富山尋找瀾滄江源頭。領隊是一名長相英俊、辦事果斷的康巴漢子，名叫阿夏永紅。他告訴我們，雜多縣是瀾滄江—湄公河的發源地，這條河流經歷了高山、峽谷、平原、雨林，最后匯入南海……越野車在貼著瀾滄江的公路上疾馳，車窗外，黎明前的黑暗把一切神秘都攬在了懷里。

“瞧，天亮了！”藏族姑娘措吉一聲呼喊，把我們的目光引向了車窗之外。只見朝陽灑下了金輝，將大地點染得輝煌燦爛；不遠處的瀾滄江，在藍天的映襯下，碧藍清澈；河岸邊，冰層在日光的照耀下，晶瑩剔透、如夢如幻；路兩旁，不時有藏黃羊、野狼、狐貍掠過……一幕幕原生態風景，讓人心曠神怡。

雪野茫茫，車隊沿著瀾滄江繼續行進。沿線雪山、江河、喀斯特地貌、瀑布、天然溫泉、草原，這些旅行家神往的地方一一映入我們眼簾，又相繼被甩在身后。不知過了多久，坐在頭車上的學者印英跳下越野車，先是俯身觀察，然后下到雪谷，之后又返到山巒高處……20多分鐘后，他站在雪地中大聲喊道：“前面就是瀾滄江地理源頭了，我們抵達瀾滄江源頭了！”

“瀾滄江源頭，我來了！”站在瀾滄江之源，那些美麗圣潔的景致飄忽而來。只見吉富山被群山擁抱，皚皚白雪覆蓋的山巒，如斧劈刀琢，氣勢雄勁。主峰聳入云端，宛如一名偉岸、俊逸的男子在俯視群山。就是在這里，瀾滄江從山中奔涌而出，義無反顧地澤潤山河大地。

在這條國際河流的源頭，我們進行了瀾滄江地理源頭立碑儀式。一尊一面刻著“瀾滄江源頭”字樣、一面刻著瀾滄江源頭說明的石碑，經雕刻師親手雕刻打磨后，被我們恭敬地“捧”進了源頭。奠基，埋設基座，樹立碑刻，敬獻哈達……在印英和阿夏永紅的指導下，我們按照藏族最高的禮儀，莊重地將碑刻樹立在了瀾滄江源頭。

這一刻，棲息在瀾滄江源頭的雄鷹，在我們凝望的目光中飛翔。我們眼中閃爍著淚光，迎著被山風卷起的雪花，注視著壯美風光，倍感震撼和興奮。在每個人的心中，這既是一次熱愛自然、敬重自然的生動實踐，也是一次刻骨銘心、終身難忘的人生“旅途”。

瀾滄江源頭之水破冰而出，向著下游奔流而去。The water from the source of the Lancang River breaks through the ice and rushes downstream.

即使在冬天，瀾滄江也奔涌不息。Even in winter,the Lancang River is still rushing.

瀾滄江環繞在大山與峽谷之間，滋潤著流經的地方。The Lancang River surrounds the mountains and valleys,nourishing the places where it flows.

雜多縣是著名的歌舞之鄉，藏族同胞的康巴舞熱情奔放。Zaduo County is a famous hometown of singing and dancing.The Kham dance of Tibetan compatriots is passionate and unrestrained.

Exploring the Source of the Lancang River

Among the rivers in Asia,there is one called the “Oriental Danube”.Originating from Jifu Mountain,Zaduo County,Yushu Prefecture,Qinghai Province,it has two names—called the Lancang River within the territory of China and the Mekong River after exiting through Yunnan Province.It flows through Myanmar,Laos,Thailand,Cambodia,and Vietnam in turn.

One winter day,I follow an expedition team from Zaduo County,Yushu Prefecture,Qinghai Province,to Jifu Mountain,more than 200 kilometers away,to explore the source of the Lancang River.

The snow field is vast.The convoy continues along the Lancang River.Along the route,there are snow-capped mountains,rivers,karst landforms,waterfalls,natural hot springs,and grasslands.These places that travelers are fascinated by came into our eyes one by one,and are left behind one after another.After some time,we arrive at the source of the Lancang River.

Standing at the source of the Lancang River,those beautiful and holy scenes drift towards us.I see that Jifu Mountain is embraced by mountains.The snow-covered mountains are like axes and knives with majestic momentum.The main peak soars into the clouds,like a stalwart and handsome man overlooking the mountains. It is here that the Lancang River rushes out of the mountains,moistening the mountains,rivers and land without hesitation.

At the source of the mother river of six Asian countries,we hold a monument erection ceremony for the geographic source of the Lancang River.A stele engraved with the words “Source of the Lancang River” on one side and an explanation of the source of the Lancang River on the other side is carved and polished by the sculptor.We respectfully carry it into the source,then lay the foundation,lay the pedestal,set up the inscription,and present the hada...Under the guidance of Yin Ying and Axia Yonghong,we solemnly erect the inscription at the source of the Lancang River in accordance with the highest Tibetan etiquette.