在阿爾勒，遇見『梵高』

文／飛揚

提起法國小城阿爾勒，很多人似曾相識，這歸功于梵高。《羅納河上的星夜》《夜間的露天咖啡座》《夏日花園》……在梵高的畫里，明亮的星空、溫暖的咖啡館、漂亮的夏日花園，小城的點點滴滴被永遠定格在藝術的光輝中。

?阿爾勒曾是古羅馬統治下的繁榮城市，擁有眾多歷史古跡。圖／視覺中國Arles was once a prosperous city under the rule of ancient Rome.It has many ancient historical remains.

許多人視梵高為偶像。圖為在阿爾勒街頭，一名畫家展示自己的作品。圖／閆實Many people idolized Van Gogh.The picture shows a painter displaying his work on the street of Arles.

阿爾勒見證了梵高創作生涯的輝煌時期，為他提供了無限的靈感源泉。1888年，不被巴黎主流藝術圈接納的荷蘭人文森特·威廉·梵高落魄失意，長途跋涉來到法國的普羅旺斯小鎮——阿爾勒。他租住在一幢有著黃色外墻的廉價小旅館中，將滿腔熱忱化作濃烈的色彩與恣意的筆觸。短短一年時間，旅居阿爾勒的梵高居然創作了300多幅畫，其中不乏《向日葵》系列這樣的傳世名作。更為人稱道的是，梵高曾邀請高更來阿爾勒同住。兩人彼此欣賞，但終因藝術理念上的差異發生了劇烈沖突而分道揚鑣，并留下了那段關于《割耳后的自畫像》的傳奇故事。

這座城市中處處是梵高留下的印記，許多地方仍保留著當年的風貌。跟隨梵高的畫作，可一窺那些美與感動的源頭。

《夜間的露天咖啡座》為很多人所鐘愛。畫面描繪了阿爾勒一家咖啡館的室外景色，溫暖而明亮的燈光灑在鵝卵石鋪成的小路上；深藍色的夜空中，群星閃爍，宛如朵朵燦爛的燈花。這座夜間咖啡館今天依然開門納客，并改名叫“梵高咖啡館”。從菜單到外墻再到遮雨棚，它幾乎維持著與畫中相同的面貌。咖啡館營業到23點，價格親民，許多游客慕名而來，點上一杯咖啡悠閑而隨意地坐著，溫馨又愜意。

位于城西的梵高文化中心是梵高曾居住過的醫院，他當年割下耳朵后曾被送往這里救治，后又因精神病被困于此。1889年4月，梵高以這里的庭院為原型，創作了《阿爾勒醫院的花園》。原來的醫院早已搬離，這里現在有各種店鋪、圖書館等，是開放的游覽地。

隨手一拍，阿爾勒街景就成了一幅畫。圖／閆實With just a quick shot,the street scene of Arles becomes a painting.

游客慕名來到梵高咖啡館，感受畫中情景。圖／閆實Because of respect for its fame,tourists come to Van Gogh Café to feel the scene in the painting.

阿爾勒競技場是小城中最顯眼的建筑，也是法國歷史最悠久的競技場之一，梵高曾描繪過競技場的盛大場景。游客幾乎不需要刻意留心，就能毫不費勁地在城市的各個角落看到它傲然挺立的身姿。它建于羅馬帝國時期，長136米，寬109米，以雙層拱廊為特色，共有120個拱門，能容納2萬多名觀眾。阿爾勒競技場最初主要用于戰車比賽和血腥的角斗士肉搏戰，目前是法國為數不多的斗牛場之一，經常一票難求。

拋開梵高，阿爾勒是擁有眾多歷史古跡和獨特文化的古城。位于地中海邊、把守著羅納河入海口的阿爾勒，曾是古羅馬統治下的繁榮城市，是凱撒大帝麾下第六軍團退伍軍人的定居城。公元四世紀，城里興建起眾多宏偉建筑，有“高盧人的小羅馬”之稱。1981年，7座古羅馬和羅馬式古跡被聯合國教科文組織列入《世界遺產名錄》。

在阿爾勒的大街小巷穿梭散步，既可以感受羅馬風情，還能遇見藝術家曾經生活中的一草一木，感受他們留下的藝術之光，收獲不一樣的感動。

在阿爾勒可以品嘗地道的地中海特色美食。圖為一家餐館的創意手寫菜單。圖／閆實In Arles you can taste authentic Mediterranean specialties.The picture shows a creative handwritten menu of a restaurant.

In Arles,Meet “Van Gogh”

When it comes to the small French city of Arles,many people seem to know it,which is attributed to Van Gogh.Starry Night Over the Rhone,Terrace Cafe at Night,andSummer Garden...In Van Gogh’s paintings,the bright starry sky,warm cafes,and beautiful summer garden,all these aspects of the little town are forever are frozen in the brilliance of art.

In 1888,the Dutchman Vincent William Van Gogh came to Arles,a small town in Provence,France.He turned his enthusiasm into strong colors and arbitrary brushstrokes.In just one year,Van Gogh created more than 300paintings in Arles,including many masterpieces such as theSunflowerseries.

Arles is full of imprints left by Van Gogh.Many places still retain the style of the years when Van Gogh lived here.Cafe Terrace at Nightis loved by many people.The night café,which is still open today,has been renamed the “Van Gogh Cafe”.From the menu to the fa?ade,then to the awning,it maintains almost the same appearance as in the painting.The cafe is open until 23 o’clock with ordinary prices.So,many tourists come here because of respect for its fame.

The Arles Arena is the most conspicuous building in the small town and one of the oldest arenas in France.Van Gogh once depicted the grand scene of the arena.Visitors hardly need to pay attention to it.They can easily see its proud and upright figure in every corner of the city.Built during the Roman Empire,it has 120 arches and can accommodate more than 20,000 spectators.The Arles Arena was originally used mainly for chariot races and bloody gladiator hand-to-hand combat.It is currently one of the few bullrings in France.However,the tickets are often hard to come by.