重游中法莊園

文 Tersina Shieh 編、譯 張?zhí)裎?/p>

2017年中，我拜訪了位于河北省懷來縣的迦南酒業(yè)及其姐妹酒莊中法莊園，盡管這兩個酒莊都是從2003年就開始釀造葡萄酒，但是這些葡萄酒均未上市。

When I visited Canaan Wine and its sister winery Domaine Franco-Chinois,located in Huailai in Hebei province back in mid 2017,the wines were not commercially available despite the fact that wine has been made since 2003.

謝德蘭

當時我品嘗過的部分葡萄酒比一些更出名的中國品牌好得多，可莊主仍然認為，這些葡萄酒還是沒有達到可以上市的水平。因此，我很高興終于在2019年11月在上海的葡道（葡萄酒零售店兼酒吧）看見并且品嘗到了迦南酒業(yè)旗下的詩百篇葡萄酒，更令人興奮的是在2020年初，我又再次參觀了這個酒莊。迦南酒業(yè)于2018年推出市場，為了避免與寧夏另一家名為迦南美地的酒莊混淆，所以決定將“詩百篇”作為品牌名稱。詩百篇這個名字很適合，因為這位來自中國臺灣的莊主是基督徒，而這個名稱寓意贊美詩，在中文里也充滿了詩意。

大部分的中國酒莊只專注于赤霞珠、霞多麗或者是波爾多混釀品種，而不管土壤和氣候是否適合種植這些品種。迦南酒業(yè)則很有創(chuàng)意，葡萄園里還種植了雷司令、長相思、黑皮諾、丹魄以及西拉，這些葡萄分別種植在海拔500-900米之間，占地300公頃。釀酒師趙德升喜歡嘗試克隆品種，他有10個赤霞珠的克隆和7個黑皮諾的克隆。他解釋說：不同的克隆有不同的表達方式，就算使用了一樣的酵母發(fā)酵并且在相同的橡木桶中陳年，最終的呈現(xiàn)還是會不一樣。因此，將這些克隆品種進行混釀會讓最終的葡萄酒變得更加復雜。

2017年份的雷司令口感清爽并帶有豐富的青檸香氣，與克萊爾谷的葡萄酒別無二致。而2017年份的西拉則有著令人愉悅的胡椒氣息以及和諧的單寧。我喜歡2017年份的黑皮諾，它表現(xiàn)活潑并且有潛力，在瓶中陳年期間得到進一步發(fā)展。2014年份的赤霞珠特級珍藏則展現(xiàn)了深度以及很好的平衡。

另一款使人印象深刻的葡萄酒是中法莊園2013年份的馬瑟蘭（我們在品嘗2014年份的同時也飲用了這款酒）。馬瑟蘭是20世紀60年代在法國培育出來的雜交品種，雙親分別是赤霞珠和歌海娜。馬瑟蘭于2000年初在中法莊園種植，那時的中法莊園是一家中法合資企業(yè)，直到2010年被迦南酒業(yè)收購。這是首次在中國種植馬瑟蘭，事實證明它適應得很好。馬瑟蘭比赤霞珠更易于管理，在中國越來越受歡迎。盡管趙德升說，要釀造一款出色的馬瑟蘭并不容易，但這瓶7歲的陳年馬瑟蘭葡萄酒仍然散發(fā)著紅色水果的芳香并且酸度很高，我很確信這就是中國最優(yōu)秀的馬瑟蘭葡萄酒之一。當迦南酒業(yè)的莊主決定在中國釀酒時，他們在2006-2009年，花了3年時間研究了中國的16個地區(qū)，才最終確定河北省懷來縣的土壤和氣候是最適合種植葡萄的。這里種植食用葡萄的歷史已經有1000年，中國的第一瓶干白葡萄酒就是在1979年于這里誕生。

The selection of wine I tasted then was much better than some of the more famous Chinese brands but the owner thought that it was still not good to be released.Therefore I was glad to finally have seen and tasted Canaan Wine,under the name 詩百篇,at Shanghai Pudao retail shop cum wine bar in November 2019,and even more excited to visit the winery again in the beginning of 2020.Canaan Wine was launched in 2018 but they decided to use the brand name 詩百篇to avoid confusion with another winery in Ningxia called Kanaan Winery.The name 詩百篇 suits well because the Taiwanese owner is a Christian and the name implies hymn and also has a poetic connotation in Chinese.

Most wineries in China only focus on Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux blend and Chardonnay regardless if the soil and climate are suitable for these varieties.Cannan is creative and has also planted Riesling,Sauvignon Blanc,Pinot Noir,Tempranillo and Syrah at different attitude between 500 and 900m,spread over 300ha.Winemaker Zhao Desheng likes to experiment with clones.He has 10 clones of Cabernet Sauvignon and 7 clones of Pinot Noir.He explained that different clones have different expressions even fermented with the same yeasts and aged in same barrels therefore blending them together with give more complexity to the final wine.

The Riesling 2017 is refreshing with abundant lime aroma not dissimilar to Clare Valley’s while the 2017 Syrah has a pleasant peppery nose and integrated tannin.I like the lively 2017 Pinot Noir which has potential to develop further in bottle.The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve shows depth and is well balanced.

Another impressive wine was the Domaine Franco-Chinois 2013 Marselan (we tasted this alongside 2014 vintage).Marselan is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache developed in the 1960s in France.It was planted at Domaine Franco-Chinois in early 2000,then a Sino-French joint venture before being acquired by Canaan in 2010.It was the first planting of Marselan in China and it prove to adapt well.It is easier to manage than Cabernet Sauvignon and is gaining popularity in China.Although Deshang said it is not easy to make an outstanding Marselan,this 7 years old Marselan is still bursted with red fruit aromas supported by great acidity and I’m pretty convinced that this is one of the outstanding Marselan in China.

Apparently,when the owner of Canaan decided to make wine in China,they spent three years between 2006 and 2009 researching 16 regions in China and decided Huailai in Hebei is the most suitable in terms of soil and climate.The region has been growing table grapes for 1,000 years and China’s first bottle of dry white wine was made here in 1979.