洞庭飛翠百里醉

文/五花肉

洞庭飛翠百里醉

文/五花肉

Drench Yourself in the Aroma of Biluochun

如果說龍井是名滿天下的西子佳人，那么碧螺春就像待字閨中的洞庭閨秀，“捻斷芳心散碧，翻成雪浪浮花”。據(jù)《隨見錄》記載，“洞庭山有茶，微似 而細(xì)，產(chǎn)碧螺峰者尤佳?！币源藶閾?jù)，碧螺春茶的歷史最早可以追溯至明朝。

If you compare the world-renowned Longjing to a beauty from the West Lake, Biluochun can be regarded as an elegant lady from Dongting Mountain who is still not betrothed yet. "Pick tea buds in scattered green, and brew tea in surfing leaves". Observation Note records, "Biluochun, similar to Jie Tea , but finer, is found in Dongting Mountain where Biluo Peak produces the premium tea". Based on these records, Biluochun Tea can be dated back to Ming Dynasty.

生長(zhǎng)環(huán)境得天獨(dú)厚Unique and Favorable Growing Environment

洞庭山，位于蘇州太湖流域，年平均氣溫在15.5 ℃～16.5 ℃，年降雨量1 200 mm～1 500 mm，空氣濕潤(rùn)，土壤呈微酸性，質(zhì)地疏松，極適宜茶樹生長(zhǎng)。得天獨(dú)厚的環(huán)境孕育出碧螺春“滿身毛、銅絲條、蜜蜂腿、寶綠翠”的特有品質(zhì)。Dongting Mountain is located in Taihu Lake Region where annual average temperature is between 15.5 ℃～16.5 ℃ and annual rainfall is between 1200 mm～1500 mm. Besides, the air here is humid and the soil is weak acid and porous, which is suitable for the growth of tea trees. The particularly favorable environment nurtures Biluochun with the distinct quality of "fuzz all over the leaves, copper wire shape,bee-leg-like leaf edge, and emerald green color".

碧螺春產(chǎn)區(qū)以茶、果間作聞名。明代《茶解》有云：“茶園不宜雜以惡木，唯桂、梅、辛夷、玉蘭、玫瑰、蒼松、翠竹之類與之間植，亦足以蔽覆霜雪，掩映秋陽?！痹诙赐ド?，茶樹、果樹交錯(cuò)種植，茶吸果香，花入茶味，造就了“香氣鮮濃”的碧螺春。

Biluochun producing area is known for its intercropping of tea trees and fruit trees. Tea Explanation written in Ming Dynasty says: "The tea garden is not suitable to plant poor-quality trees, but to intercrop osmanthus trees, prune trees, magnolia trees,rose trees, green pines and cypresses with tea trees to protect tee trees from frost, snow and autumn sun."In Dongting Mountain, tea trees interplant with fruit trees, so that tea leaves can absorb the fruity and floral aroma, producing fragrant and fresh Biluochun.

茶業(yè)品質(zhì)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)嚴(yán)苛

Strict Quality Standard

每年春分至谷雨前后，是碧螺春的黃金采摘時(shí)間，講究“摘得早、采得嫩、揀得凈”，尤以“明前茶”最為名貴，口感也最佳。上品通常為芽葉初展、芽長(zhǎng)1.6 cm～2.0 cm的嫩葉，葉形卷如雀舌，俗稱“雀舌”，芽葉越大、茸毛越少，則品質(zhì)越低。

The duration from each Spring Equinox to each Grain Rain is the prime time for picking Biluochun. There are three principles of picking tea leaves: picking in its early growth period, selecting the fresh leaves and screening the standard-compliant leave. Tea leaves,picked before Tomb-sweeping Day, are the most expensive and rarest leaves with the best taste. Top grade tea leaves are mainly fresh bud leaves in its early growth period with 1.6 cm ～ 2.0 cm in length.Their shapes are like birds' tongues, so they are called"Sparrow Tongue". The larger the bud leaves are and the less the fuzz is, the lower the quality is.

優(yōu)越的生長(zhǎng)環(huán)境、上等的芽葉原料，加上精心的炒制，方能成就碧螺春原料細(xì)嫩、色澤鮮艷、香氣鮮濃、滋味鮮醇“一嫩三鮮”的美名，自清代康熙年間起升格為御用貢茶。

Biluochun’s good reputation of delicate raw material,bright color, fresh aroma and mellow taste is due to its advantageous growing environment, superior bud leaves and elaborate stir-frying technique. And it was once the Tribute Tea during Kangxi Period in Qing Dynasty.

地理標(biāo)志護(hù)航發(fā)展Protective Development of Geographical Indications

為了更好地保護(hù)、推廣碧螺春，2009年起，洞庭碧螺春茶實(shí)施了新的質(zhì)量標(biāo)準(zhǔn)——《地理標(biāo)志產(chǎn)品 洞庭（山）碧螺春茶》（GB/T 18957-2008）。

In order to protect and promote Biluochun in a better way, a new quality standard on Dongting Biluochun Tea, GB/T18957-2008 Products of Geographical Indication-Dongting (Mountain) Biluochun Tea, has been implemented since 2009.

新標(biāo)準(zhǔn)規(guī)定了碧螺春茶地理標(biāo)志產(chǎn)品的保護(hù)范圍、產(chǎn)品分級(jí)、包裝貯存等內(nèi)容，進(jìn)一步規(guī)范了碧螺春茶的種植、加工和銷售全過程，助力從“茶樹到茶杯”的動(dòng)態(tài)監(jiān)控，有效維護(hù)了洞庭碧螺春的美譽(yù)度。

The new standard has specified the protective range,product grading, packing and storage of geographical indicative product of Biluochun Tea, realized the dynamic monitoring "from tea trees to tea cups", further regulated the whole process of planting, processing and selling of Biluochun Tea, and effectively maintained the reputation of Dongting Biluochun.

結(jié) 語Conclusion

清茶歷經(jīng)沸水才有濃香，人生歷經(jīng)磨煉方能坦然。碧螺春既有茶葉的清苦，也蘊(yùn)含果木的甜香，正如人生之路，雖然不免苦澀，而事過境遷后，總有更悠長(zhǎng)的甜美。

Green tea is highly flavored after being steeped in the boiling water, while men can be calm and peaceful after undergoing hardships. Biluochun contains not only the insipid and bitter flavor of the tea, but also the sweetness and fragrance of fruit trees. Like the life journey, it is inevitable for you to taste the bitterness,but you can enjoy its longer sweetness as the time goes by.

（支持單位：上海市質(zhì)量和標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化研究院）