特拉斯提弗列： 魅力與變化同在

Trastevere is one of Rome’s most ancient neighborhoods. Founded during the reign of Emperor Augustus， its name means， literally， “across the 1）Tiber.” But more than a river separates the people of Trastevere from the rest of the city. Trasteverini have always been proud of their origins， believing themselves to be the only true Romans， or “Romans of Rome.”

In the Middle Ages the neighborhood became a center for working-class fishermen and 2）artisans. Even though the Vatican owns a lot of property here， and even with the monasteries and 3）convents hidden behind high walls， it still has that spirit of a Medieval port town.

Whether to enjoy home cooking， get lost in winding alleys， or just escape the chaos of central Rome， visitors have always come here in search of the authentic Italy. Now， in increasing numbers， the visitors are moving in， driving up housing prices and 4）displacing many old-time residents. Some people fear that recent developments have changed the neighborhood for the worse.

Giancarlo Biso has been serving clients at this caféfor 35 years. His old customers are disappearing， and they’re taking the spirit of the place along with them. Biso： （via translator） This bar is more than 70 years old. In the old days people would buy milk here and carry it home in tin buckets. Women used to come down in their nightgowns to have breakfast. Today it has become a modern bar like the rest.

But not everyone is so negative about the change. Giovanni Emeli has been selling newspapers on 5）Piazza Santa Maria for the past 18 years. From his booth he has witnessed the restoration of 6）the church， the cleaning of the neighborhood and a big increase in business.

Emeli： （via translator） I would say Trastevere has changed for the better. Before， it was a lot more unstable. There was crime， poverty and unruliness. Today the type of community has changed. The neighborhood is safe， but it still keeps its characteristic charm.

Many people say it is its very charm that has led to Trastevere’s transformation.

The glory of Rome lies in its ability to 7）retain layer upon layer of history， even as the present creates an entirely new city. Trastevere’s ancient ruins， Medieval alleys， Renaissance churches and 8）Baroque palaces are all part of that timeless process.

特拉斯提弗列是羅馬最古老的地區之一，建立于奧古斯都大帝統治時期。“特拉斯提弗列”字面上的意思是“臺伯河對岸”，但將此區的居民和羅馬其他地區分隔開來的可不只是一條河流。特拉斯提弗列的人們一直都很為自己的出身感到驕傲，認為他們是惟一的真正羅馬人，或者說是“羅馬人中的羅馬人”。

在中世紀，這個地區成為了手工業階層的漁民和工匠們的中心。雖然這里的很多地產都歸梵蒂岡政府所有，寺院和修道院也都被高墻所遮蓋，但這里依然散發著中世紀港市的獨特韻味。

想領略真正意大利風情的游客們都會來到特拉斯提弗列，為的是一嘗這里的家常菜，或者體驗一下迷失在蜿蜒巷陌中的感覺，又或者，僅為逃離一會兒羅馬中心市區的喧囂。如今，越來越多的觀光者搬到了這里，令這一區的房價不斷上漲，許多原先的居民也陸續離開。一些人擔心特拉斯提弗列近年來的發展讓此區變得不如以前了。

詹卡洛·比索已經在這間小餐館為顧客服務35年了。他的老顧客們越來越少，隨之減少的還有他們賦予這家店的韻味。比索：（通過翻譯）這間酒吧已經經營了超過70年。過去，人們會來這里買牛奶，用錫桶裝著拎回家，女人們常常穿著睡衣就下來這里吃早餐。如今這里已經變成了一間現代化的酒吧，跟別的酒吧沒什么分別。

但也不是所有人都對特拉斯提弗列的變化持否定態度。喬瓦尼·伊米利在圣母廣場賣報紙已有18年。……