我再也不去十渡了！

編者按：

隨著2008年北京奧運會的逼近，民眾越來越關心“中國”品牌的樹立，學習英語的熱情也被點燃。越來越多的外宣干部和業內同行向我們表達了期待看到雙語欄目的愿望。因此，我們自2006年第1期起開辦了《雙語視窗》欄目以滿足廣大讀者的需求。

看看周圍的媒體，在《北京青年報》、《參考消息》、《國門時報》上有許多精粹的小短文，像一只只啄木鳥，善意地提醒了中國人習以為常的行為背后“尚未和國際接軌”的細節，讀后讓人回味不已。在獲得借鑒意義的同時，也帶來更深入的思考。我們效仿中英文對照的版面形式，旨在通過外國友人的視角來看中國，從中折射出東西方觀念、習俗的異同。通過一篇篇這樣的文章，讓讀者在領略異域文化的同時，也能達到學習英語的目的。

我第一次去十渡是在3年以前，那時正值我在中國做第一次為期6周的短期逗留。當時，作為地處海淀的一所大學校園里的短期學生，我的內心充滿了有關中國的想法，并對此次逗留期望很大。我學習中文，想打開眼界，來了解這個幅員遼闊的國家的諸多差異。當我在“孤星”系列導游手冊的最后一頁發現了十渡（上面只有火車時刻表和幾行說明）的時候，我已經游過了北京所有景點，于是我決定去十渡。

一位韓國朋友與我同行，這位朋友有著極為難得的說話習慣：只在必要時才開口。早晨10點左右，我們來到了好似人間天堂的十渡。天公也真作美，在黎明時分出現的一層富有浪漫氣息的白霧將四周的山都藏匿了起來。然而，耀眼的陽光足以使山坡的層面顯現出來，并且給蜿蜒的河水披上了燦爛的色彩。我們從十渡走到六渡，在那兒發現了這一帶唯一的一家飯館。路上我們還遇到一條蛇和幾個悠閑的漁民，這時，我們心中只存一念：脫光衣服，跳到清澈的河水里。這兒遠離塵囂，清新自然，我們再次感受到了活力，覺得自己煥然一新。

我現在在北京工作，不久前我又去了一次十渡。去時我就想到十渡也會有所變化，但沒有想到它會不復存在。

我丈夫所在的公司組織郊游，載著我們這些外國人的小公共經過了所有的“渡”，一直來到十渡。一個新十渡呈現在我的眼前，蹦極跳已經將此地變成了游樂場，從大喇叭里傳來刺耳的流行音樂、塑料鴨形船、游藝節目——這一切把曾經是最美妙的地方變成了最糟糕的地方。我幾乎都認不出這就是十渡了。我們沒有興沖沖加入到這些游樂活動中，對此導游很是驚愕（他常常帶中國人來這兒玩，而國內游客喜歡這些熱熱鬧鬧的項目）。這些外國人來這兒想玩什么？十渡難道不是個找樂的地方嗎？我們剛到十渡就立即離開了，想去找個希望中的自然景點。但十渡的魅力已被破壞，整整一天我都悶悶不樂。

中國的現代化一定要付出如此高昂的代價嗎？中國大地的景色是美麗的，無論是國內游客還是來華的外國游客，人數都在增加。保護好十渡并向公眾開放肯定是可以做到的。

作為一個法國人，我對自然保護十分敏感，法國三分之一的國土被森林覆蓋，而現在森林面積還在擴大。在山上你還能碰到狼，但這并不意味著法國不現代。我們成功地建設了一個具有很多自然景點的國家，在那些自然環境里，我們可以緩解現代生活所帶來的壓力。今天的十渡——熱鬧、艷麗、人造景觀泛濫——就像在市中心，僅僅是個城市公園，只是比別的公園離城遠，更不容易去而已。

十渡的潛在價值已經被完全忽視了。為什么不把它變成沿著寂靜的小路遠足或騎馬、劃皮筏艇及攀巖的地方，使城市長大的孩子們能在這里感受自然并學習野外生存技能？為什么不讓小學生們和老師在暑假來這里觀察城里絕對見不到的植物和鳥兒們呢？

人類需要呼吸新鮮的空氣并在安靜的地方思考。或許我更喜歡山中隱士生活那一面的中國。有一點是肯定的，我更喜歡“野”十渡。而現在的十渡，我是再也不會去了。

原文

I’ll Never Go to Shidu Again

My first visit to Shidu was three years ago，during the first of my three six-week sojourns in China.As a short-term student on a campus in Haidian，my mind was teeming with ideas about China，and I expected much of my stay here.I would study Chinese and open my eyes to the multitude of contrasts in this vast country.I had already been to all the scenic spots in Beijing when I discovered，on the very last page of the Lonely Planet guide，the name Shidu，followed only by a train timetable and a few lines describing the place.I decided to go.

A Korean friend with the precious habit of talking only when necessary accompanied me.Around 10 in the morning we arrived at what seemed a heaven on earth.The weather was with us too:a melancholy mist had appeared at dawn.The mountains were hid den and at the same time enveloped by the cottony haze.Yet the sun shone brightly enough to reveal the strata in the slopes and lend glitter to the meandering river.We walked down from the tenth crossing to the sixth，where we found the only restaurant around.On the way we met a snake and a few idle fishermen;our one desire was to doff our clothes and plunge naked into the clear water.Time had no grip on this place.We felt alive again，renewed.

I now work in Beijing，and not long ago I returned to Shidu.I wentk nowing that Shidu would have changed too，but I had no inkling of its despoliation.

Bearing foreigners on an outing organized by my husband's company，our minibus drove past all the crossings till it came to the tenth.The new Shidu appeared be fore my eyes:the bungee jumping had changed the place into a funfair.Techno music blaring from loudspeakers，plastic duck-shaped boats，carnival attractions-the worst of China where once the best of it had been.I could scarcely recognize the place.The tour guide，used to going to Shidu with Chinese people who expect noisy activities of this sort，was amazed that wedidn’t rush to join in the activities on offer:What did these foreigners come for? Isn't Shidu just another place to have fun?We headed off as soon as we arrived，trying to find the kind of natural setting we had hoped for.But the spell of Shidu was broken.I felt bitter for the rest of the day.

Does China have to pay such a high price for modernization?The land is beautiful;tourism here，Chinese as well as foreign，is growing.Surely it is possible to preserve Shidu and still open it to the public.?

As a French person I am very sensitive to the conservation of nature:France is a country where the acreage given over to forests-even now a third of the national area is increasing，and where in the mountains you can still encounter wolves.That doesn't me an France is not“modern”;we have succeeded in building a country where there are places to recover from the stress of modern life，in natural settings.Shidu as it is to day-noisy，garish，artificial could just as well be in the centre of Beijing.It's just acity park a bit harder to reach than the others.

The potential of Shidu has been entirely over looked.Why not turn it into aplace for hiking and riding horses along quiet trails，for kayaking and rock-climbing，a place where city-bred teenagers can encounter nature and learn to survive in it?Why not let schoolchildren go there with their teachers during the summer holidays，to observe plants and birds they'll never see in the city?

Human beings need to breathe fresh air and meditate in silence.Maybe I prefer the China of mountain hermits.It's certain that I prefer the old“wild”Shidu.And no，I will never again set foot in the ruin of nature that Shidu has become today.

（本欄目文章選自《北京青年報》“雙語視窗”，得到欄目編輯張愛學的授權。英文部分的稿費由本編輯部支付，請作者本人看到此啟事后與編輯部聯系，或發郵件至zhoujin_gongwu@sina.com）

責編：周 瑾