藏北那曲探望藏羚羊

藏羚羊，這種青藏高原特有的動物，因為它的特殊性和故事性，成為近幾年來頗受人們關注的動物明星。

最早受到人們關注的，要數青海治多縣委副書記索南達杰為保衛藏羚羊而英勇獻身的故事；后來有一位叫楊欣的漂流勇士，他為索南達杰的事跡所感動而放棄漂流毅然投身于保護藏羚羊的事業中，他克服了重重困難，建立起民間的索南達杰自然保護站；再后來，是陸川抓住了這個題材，拍出電影《可可西里》獲得多項國際大獎，讓藏羚羊的命運再度引起人們的普遍關注。現在，藏羚羊又成了競爭2008年奧運會吉祥物的一個熱點……

藏羚羊能夠成為媒體和社會的關注熱點，是一件可喜的事，我打從心眼里感到高興!2001年6月至2004年6月，我作為一名援藏干部在藏北那曲度過了三年，期間4次深入那曲西部的羌塘自然保護區拍攝圖片，與藏羚羊有了多次的近距離的接觸，結下了緣份。

那曲西部的羌塘自然保護區是藏羚羊、野牦牛、藏野驢、黑頸鶴等國家級保護動物的棲息地，特別是尼瑪、雙湖境內藏羚羊最為集中。

每年11月—12月是藏羚羊的發情季節，容易看到藏羚羊成群結隊熙熙攘攘的場面。那天，尼瑪縣委副書記蘭忠、尼瑪鎮鎮長旺堆帶我們來到藏羚羊聚集地吳爾多，希望能夠遇上大群的藏羚羊，以拍一拍群羊聚集的壯觀場景。果真，在木嘎雪山腳下，我們一眼就看見成群結隊的藏羚羊聚集在那里，雄雌各主一群，它們各自為陣，少有往來，其數量估計有千余只之多!機敏的藏羚羊發覺我們后馬上奔跑起來，它們是草原長跑高手，最快可達每小時80公里，即便豐田越野車也不容易追上。奔跑時它們好像還很靦腆，依舊是雄、雌分開各自分開。它們奔走的姿態非常優美，富有力量，特別是雄性藏羚羊的長角就像古代軍隊整齊排列的長矛，奔跑起來浩浩蕩蕩，宛如沖鋒陷陣之氣慨。

我們的越野車追了過去，不想突然“啪”的一聲，輪胎爆了，原來草地上滿是碎石片。好在還有一輛車，于是駕駛員根據藏羚羊奔跑方向拼命地追趕，“咔嚓、咔嚓”，我的快門連連按動，終于拍到了藏羚羊奔跑中的各種姿態的照片。

藏羚羊藏語稱作“最”，它常年生活在地勢平坦、水草旺盛的湖盆地帶。雄藏羚羊有一對尖尖的黑色長角，很有力度感，長角可以入藥。最珍貴的還是它的毛絨，當今世界上的一些富豪，一直把擁有藏羚羊絨織成的衣物當作一種榮耀。三五只藏羚羊的毛絨可以制作一條叫做“沙圖什”的披肩，國際最高售價達1.5萬美元。如今雖然藏羚羊已被列為國家一級保護動物，列入《瀕危動植物種國際貿易公約》，嚴禁藏羚羊貿易，但在巨大利益驅使下，一些人還是鋌而走險，捕殺事件屢有發生。

我們在這遼闊的原野上一邊走，一邊思忖：藏北那曲地區如果沒有藏羚羊和它的伙伴，這片土地該是多么寂寞!它們同人類一樣，同在這片土地上繁衍生息，應該有同等的生存權力，它們都是西藏高原的主人呢!正因為它們的存在，才使得這里顯得更加圣潔而富有生氣，它們是大地的精靈!……

藏羚羊

I Photograph Tibetan Antelopes

Photographs and Story by Ji Yehai

I joined a government program and was assigned to work as a government official from June 2001 to June 2004 in Naqu， north Tibet. It was during the three years there that I learned a lot about Tibetan antelopes， for I paid four visits to Qiangtang and took a lot of photographs.

Located in the western Naqu， Qiangtang is home to Tibetan antelopes， Tibetan donkeys， wild yaks， and black-neck cranes and other rare species under the state protection.

Tibetan antelopes mate in November and December. It is most likely to see huge groups of them during this period. One day we drove to find if we were lucky enough to see a large group of Tibetan antelopes. We were lucky. At the foot of a snow mountain， I got the first sight of large groups of the beautiful antelopes. Males and females were in separate groups， and they did not mix. The way they walked was very gracious and energetic. The male antelopes had black long horns. They looked like an army marching in matrixes with their long spears. When they ran， they were like an army charging magnificently.

Our SUVs chased them. I suddenly heard a loud explosion and it turned out that our vehicle got a flat tire as the tire got pierced by one of the rubbles on the ground. Fortunately the other SUV was still good. We continued our chase and I clicked the camera off rapidly.

Tibetan antelopes’ hair can be processed into the world’s finest wool. It is said that a luxurious shawl made of the hair of three-five Tibetan antelopes costs 15，000 US dollars. Though the species is now under the state protection and an international trade convention bans the trade of Tibetan antelopes， slaughters by poachers still happen now and then.

Without the antelopes and other species， the north Tibetan area would look most desolate and lonely. These animals have the right to live because they own the land there.

(Translated by David)