走訪雨果的澤西故居

盡管對法國大文豪雨果的成名作《悲慘世界》《巴黎圣母院》《笑面人》等都看過，但我還是對雨果知之甚少。去年夏天我到英國澤西島探親，恰巧我居住的海灣社區就是雨果在150年前流亡時租住的地方。于是我興致勃勃地借了一本澤西英文版地圖，背著旅行包步行去尋訪雨果留在澤西的足跡。

海灘邊的紀念碑和故居

雨果是歷史上長期居住英國澤西的世界文化名人，所以澤西島一直以此為榮。當地社區在雨果的故居海灘上，選了一座聳立挺拔的礁石，鑲嵌著一塊長90厘米、寬65厘米的白玉碑，刻著：Victor Hugo 1852.8—1855.10。

雨果是1848年法國革命的參加者。他反對拿破侖三世的專制與暴力，結果被勒令出國流亡。流亡中他之所以不去美國紐約、英國倫敦，而是選擇在澤西島生活，其原因是他非常愛祖國，愛說法語而不愿說英語，因為澤西島離法國諾曼底只有36海里，原住民都講法語，雨果就是看重澤西的這一特殊性。

往紀念雨果的白玉碑海灘走去，約100米處就是雨果的故居所在地，雨果故居與現在周圍的花園式住宅相比，自然顯得有些寒酸，可150年前這座磚木結構二層建筑能算得上是漁村里的豪宅了。故居的裝潢相當考究，屋內有柚木墻板、壁爐、地毯、玻璃吊燈等，墻上還掛著水彩畫和素描。據說雨果還是一個多產的畫家，僅僅在澤西暫居的三年多時間里，就畫了二三百幅油畫，除油畫外故居墻上還掛有雨果的單人照片、合家歡等照片。雨果的兒子查理達是個攝影愛好者，當時家里的照片都是查理達拍的。

雖說雨果到澤西的身份是個政治流亡者，可他畢竟是出身于貴族的名人，要比島上的原住民富裕得多，所以凡逢年過節或遇到自然災難，他全家便出動進行救濟，島上許多孤兒寡老都得到過他的幫助。

圣海力港與龐道酒店

從雨果故居沿海灘向南步行20分鐘左右，翻過一個略有坡度的高地公園，就能見到一個巨大U字形的港灣，這就是澤西最大的港口——圣海力港。港內除了停放的數百艘游艇外，還有豪華型的白色渡輪，大小不一的貨船和碩大的郵輪。

緊靠港灣的是個大廣場，7尊雕塑銅像安放在左角。2005年6月6日，英國伊麗莎白女王為慶祝反法西斯勝利60周年，還特地趕到這里發表演說。

大廣場北面有一幢19世紀初建造的博物館。這里可以看到澤西的歷史變遷、民俗民風、出土文物和名人遺跡等。在一張半人高的茶幾上，平放著一本8開本的冊子，著重介紹了雨果流亡到澤西的生活情況，由此可想而知，澤西人對雨果流亡到澤西這段歷史是十分看重的，他們把它當作澤西人的光榮。

據史載，雨果是在比利時的布魯塞爾乘船直接抵達澤西，在圣海力港登岸。1852年8月5日下午，圣海力港碼頭人山人海，澤西人夾道歡迎這位流亡者的到來。

雨果在澤西的第一夜住在大廣場的龐道酒店。現任龐道酒店的經理尼科拉斯先生介紹說，當年雨果住在酒店二樓的205號房間，酒店老板及澤西名流還設宴招待了雨果一行。

雨果逝世后，當地人為了紀念雨果，還塑了一個他的銅像豎立在根西凱悌公園。

圣達克教堂與《懲罰集》

雨果故居不遠的山丘上，有一座12世紀建造的圣達克教堂，雨果心緒好的時候會到圣達克教堂去做禮拜，并與神父促膝談心。這座教堂用島上火紅色的花崗巖砌成，十分原始古樸，面積約25平方米，只能容納十來個人做禮拜。

教堂內有色彩醒目的壁畫，畫的都是圣經上的故事。在圣像下除了講經臺上擺著圣經外，白墻的凹進處還擺放著許多一寸高的白蠟燭，使教徒或參觀者隨意取用。

雨果是被法國動蕩的政治漩渦撞傷的人，他對圣達克教堂那種古樸、寧靜、穩定的氛圍極為贊賞。他關注法國革命，但此時已無法施展才能，只有繼續拿起筆來勤奮寫作，他在澤西用了10個月的時間寫成6200句的一首長詩，取名《懲罰集》，這是雨果在澤西唯一的作品。

Victor Hugo’s Exile on Jersey Island

Last summer I visited relatives in Jersey， an island in the English Channel between Britain and France. The bay community where my relatives resided is exactly where Victor Hugo (1802-1885) lived in political exile more than 150 years ago. I decided to pay a pilgrimage visit to the writer’s former residence. After all， I had read his major works such as The Hunchback of Notre Dame (1831) and Les Miseables (1862). I borrowed a map of Jersey in English， carried a backpack and began my pilgrimage.

Jersey is proud of Hugo， a world-class big name who lived long on the island. On the beach in front of the residence stands a white jade monument in commemoration of Hugo’s three-year exile there from August， 1852 to October， 1855. Victor Hugo’s name is carved in intaglio.

Hugo participated in the 1848 French Revolution against the violence and tyranny of Napoleon III. After the revolution failed， he was ordered to leave France. The writer did not go to London or New York but chose the English Channel island of Jersey， for residents there spoke French and the island was only 36 sea miles from Normandy， France.

About 100 meters away from the monument stands the former residence. Compared with the surrounding garden-like houses， the residence looked a little bit shabby today. But 150 years ago the two-story wooden and brick house looked like a palace in the fishing village. The furniture and decoration inside revealed the luxury of yesterday: teak wall panels， fireplace， carpet， crystal chandelier， watercolors and sketches. It is said that Victor Hugo was a prolific painter. He painted about 300 oils on the island during his 3-year exile. Also in the house are photographs taken then， many of them by Victor Hugo’s son who was a photograph enthusiast.

Though a political exile on the island， Hugo was a celebrity from a noble family after all and he led a comfortable life there. On holidays or when a natural disaster struck， he and his family would deliver relief and offer help to local residents.

A 20-minute walk to the south of the residence and led me to a U-shaped harbor after passing a park. This is St. Heller Harbor， the largest one on the island. I saw hundreds of yachts moored there， a sumptuous white ferryboat， cargo ships and a giant passenger liner. Close to the harbor spread a large square， where Queen Elizabeth made a speech in celebration of the 60th anniversary of the victory of World War II on June 6， 2005.

The harbor was exactly where Hugo landed on the island 153 years ago. He sailed from Brussels， Belgium directly to Jersey. On the afternoon of August 5， 1852， island residents flocked to St. Heller Harbor to welcome the writer. And the local celebrities held a banquet to entertain him at a hotel there. The manager of Pomme D’or hotel proudly showed me the records of that time: Huge spent his first night on the island in room 205.

Hugo’s residence on the edge of St Helier was close to a Parish Church built in the 12th century. Hugo went there now and then when the weather was fine. It was during his stay on the island that Hugo spent 10 months writing his best known works of poetry， 6，200-line “Les Chatiments”(Punishments)， which was published in 1853.

After Hugo passed away， Jersey islanders erected a bronze statue in a park in his honor.

(Translated by David)