A Bit of a Pickle

Three more fermented food dishes from across China

Sour Bamboo Shoots 酸筍

Crowned by some as the “soul” of various dishes in the Guangxi autonomous region， including the notoriously stinky snail rice-flour noodle soup， or luosifen （螺螄粉）， sour bamboo shoots have a divisive flavor. To those who love them， a thought makes the mouth water; to those who hate them， a whiff makes the stomach churn.

After a simple soak in sealed jars of water for as little as a week， these thin strips of bamboo shoots re-emerge with a distinctive fermented aroma （or odor， if you side with the haters）. The crunch and acidity of the pickles， paired with the spicy flavors of many local dishes， helps to bring back ones appetite in the hot and humid Guangxi weather.

“Laba” Garlic 臘八蒜

On the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month， also known as Laba Festival， many families in northern China drop chubby cloves of peeled garlic into rice vinegar. Come Lunar New Year， the slowly fermenting garlic will have turned from white to blue and then to green， glowing in the dark vinegar like little pieces of jade.

Some find the hue suspicious， others say its a sign the cloves have reached their prime： crunchy， sweet and sour， while retaining a hint of the pungent taste of raw garlic—just enough to add a bit of excitement to the dumplings often eaten at this time of year in northern China. This traditionally winter-bound condiment， however， can now be found all year round in some restaurants in Beijing.

Meigancai 梅干菜

Pickled in salt and then dried outside， meigancai looks ominously dark， shrunken， and wrinkled—nothing like its previous fresh form as leafy mustard green or napa cabbage （depending on the variety of meigancai）. But its off-putting appearance disguises delightfully subtle umami flavors. Best served with soy-braised meats， meigancai adds a savory， herbal note to the dish， while absorbing some fat to become soft and smooth itself.

Parts of Zhejiang province， the Sichuan basin， and Hakka regions of Guangdong province all boast proud traditions of consuming this pickled vegetable. Other than stewing with meat， meigancai also makes a good filling for steamed buns， or it can be gulped down with plain rice after steaming with some soy sauce.