獨占鰲頭的運河傳奇

文／一卓

鰲頭磯始建于明嘉靖年間，具有極高的藝術價值。圖／刁艷杰Built in the Jiajing Period of Ming, Aotouji is of great artistic value.

鰲頭磯位于臨清市先鋒路街道吉士口街，這里是元代運河與明代運河的分岔處，始建于明代嘉靖年間。

“鰲頭磯”之名緣于特定的地理環境，鰲頭磯以西曾是一處四面環水之地，古稱“中洲”。鰲頭磯處中洲突出之地，明代正德年間此處疊石為壩，狀如鰲頭，兩支運河上的四處河閘像是鰲的兩對足，廣濟橋在鰲頭磯后面像其尾。后因此地風水極佳，始建建筑“弘蕓庵”，慢慢成為建筑群。

明代書法家、臨清人方元煥為鰲頭磯題“獨占”二字，意為“獨占鰲頭”。明代大學士、著名詩人李東陽有詩《過鰲頭磯》曰：“十里人家兩岸分，層樓高棟入青云。官船賈舶紛紛過，擊鼓鳴鑼處處聞。”這首詩繪聲繪色地描繪出當年臨清繁盛的運河風情。不難想見當年高官士賈、文人騷客乘船途經臨清，登樓臨閣，眺望運河，寄情抒懷、賦詩唱和，是何等愜意。

步入鰲頭磯，可見周圍樓閣環合。其內有北殿三間，稱“甘堂祠”，俗稱“李公祠”；南樓三間，名“登瀛樓”，俗稱“望河樓”；西殿三間，曰“呂祖堂”；東樓三間，謂“觀音閣”。拾級而上望河樓，大運河如同一條玉帶在樓前飄過。樓內東西山墻分別懸掛著兩塊匾額：一塊是清康熙年間臨清知州、書法家王轂書寫的“沙丘古渡”，“沙丘古渡”四字為行書體，蒼勁雄渾，神韻豐滿，不失為一書法藝術的佳作；一塊是清乾隆五十五年（1790年）臨清直隸州知州張度書寫的“汶衛津梁”，“汶衛津梁”四字為正楷書，端莊而灑脫，頗具功力。

從望河樓轉而登上觀音閣，極目遠望，運河、綠樹、街道、行人盡收眼底。正前方是登瀛文化廣場，畫舫、曲廊、石橋、流水歷歷在目。觀音閣歇山卷棚頂，上覆筒瓦，四角飛挑，木格落地，與望河樓相映成趣，渾然一體，為臨清景觀“鰲磯凝秀”之所在。

作為一組明代的傳統古建筑群，鰲頭磯布局嚴謹，玲瓏幽靜。院內竹影婆娑，照壁、刻石相映成趣，體現了高超的建筑技藝和不朽的藝術價值。2001年6月，鰲頭磯被國務院列為全國重點文物保護單位。

此外，鰲頭磯還是一處重要的革命紀念地，親歷了國民革命到抗日戰爭與解放戰爭的風風雨雨，曾是黨的領導機關所在地和重要活動場所。1936年夏天，一批來自北平的愛國知識分子在鰲頭磯成立“山東省第三民教輔導區”，朱啟賢任主任，干事有愛國知識分子丁浩川等。第三民教輔導區建立后，逐漸成為以丁浩川為核心的抗日宣傳組織，為臨清抗日宣傳工作作出了重要貢獻。1937年盧溝橋事變爆發后，丁浩川、黑若仙、王筆一、秦和珍等共產黨員在此創立報社，出版中共臨清縣工委機關報《力報》，此地便成為傳播馬列主義、組織群眾投身革命的場所。

許多學者、詩人、書畫家如季羨林、臧克家、高啟云、李予昂、夏雨常等先后為鰲頭磯題贈佳作墨寶，國畫大師李苦禪81歲時為鰲頭磯題寫匾額，為古老的建筑增添了新的文化內涵。

明代書法家、臨清人方元煥為鰲頭磯題“獨占”二字，意為“獨占鰲頭”。圖／徐金利Fang Yuanhuan, a calligrapher of Ming and native of Linqing, wrote the inscription “Exclusive” for Aotouji, implying “Heading the List”.

The Grand Canal flows through the actual city of Linqing. Aotouji stands by the old canal, with the inscription of “Exclusive” on the lintel over the gate, looking solemn and magnificent. We may have lost sight of its past prosperity, but cannot help but explore its past when feeling its unique charm of antique beauty. Today, we approached the old building.

Located at Jishikou Street, the Xianfeng Sub-district Office, Linqing, Aotouji is at the fork of the Yuan canal and the Ming canal, built in the Jiajing Period of Ming. Fang Yuanhuan, a calligrapher of Ming and native of Linqing, wrote the inscription “Exclusive” for Aotouji, implying “Heading the List”.

As a traditional building complex of Ming, Aotouji is exquisite and quiet with a rigorous layout. There are bamboo leaves rustling in the wind, as well as screen walls and stone carvings contrasting finely with each other, which demonstrate superb architectural skills and immortal artistic value. In June 2001, Aotouji was listed as a key national heritage conservation unit by the State Council.

Besides, Aotouji is an important revolutionary monument, which has experienced the ups and downs of the National Revolution, the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, and the War of Liberation. It was where the Party’s leading body was situated and where important events were organized.

Numerous scholars, poets, calligraphers and painters, e.g. Ji Xianlin, Zang Kejia, Gao Qiyun, Li Yu’ang, and Xia Yuchang, wrote inscriptions, created calligraphy or painting works for Aotouji. Chinese painting master Li Kuchan even wrote an inscription for Aotouji when he was 81. Now, Aotouji has become the seat of the Linqing Museum, and added a new cultural connotation to this old building.