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用味道記住一座城

2021-08-04 13:22:28
文化交流 2021年6期

用味道記住一座城,愛上天臺的緣由一定不只是山水風景,更是那寧靜美好的小城芳華,抑或是那悠久深邃的人文歷史,以及那令人懷念的味道。

Falling in love with Tiantai is easy: the picturesque landscape, the peaceful village stroll, the historical atmosphere, and the unforgettable local dishes.

餃餅筒

Jigong Burrrito

餃餅筒不僅是臺州的,更是中國的。在上海世博會期間,餃餅筒被叫作“濟公卷餅”,作為中華名小吃登場,而這名字則源自它的來歷。相傳,天臺的濟公和尚見每餐剩下不少菜,于是就把剩菜裹入面餅,留到下一頓再吃。

單從餃餅筒這一叫法可能不能直接了解到它的吃法,但若稱之為卷餅則相對直觀一些。用面粉加水拌成面粉漿,攤餅時,拈一團又軟又韌的面粉漿放在底部加熱的平底鏊盤上,順時針或逆時針勻上一圈即成,再卷入土豆絲、雞蛋絲、茭白、炒肉等家常菜,最后放到鍋里煎得又香又脆,一個餃餅筒就完成了。皮薄、陷香的餃餅筒,是每一個在外漂泊的天臺人的鄉愁。

Being a local favorite, Jigong Burrito is popular in China and beyond—it was exhibited as a representative Chinese delicacy at Shanghai World Expo. Legend has it that Jigong, a famous monk born in Tiantai, always took a flat bread to wrap some leftovers for his next meal. That is, as is largely believed, where the name came from.

To make a Jigong Burrito, you need a batter, which is a mixture of flour and water, and make sure it is soft and elastic. Take some of the batter to put on a hot pan, before smearing it evenly clockwise or counterclockwise; fill the freshly made flat bread with home-cooked shredded potatoes, fried eggs, stir-fried sliced meat… you name it, roll it up, and pan-fry it until it is nice and crispy. For Tiantai people working away from their hometown, this is a taste of home.

扁食

Bianshi Dumpling

扁食是天臺的特色小吃,在天臺某些地區,扁食也是端午的主要食物。與餃餅筒一樣,扁食也是由面粉制成。揉面,切段,用搟面杖壓成巴掌大的薄皮,然后把煮熟的蘿卜、筍干、精肉、豆腐干、雞蛋碎末攪拌在一起作為餡料,包裹進面皮中。

形狀類似餃子,但比餃子更精致,豐富的餡料又讓它比餛飩更豐滿。扁食一般現做現吃,水煮、清蒸、油煎,吃法多種多樣,記住一定要趁熱吃,那樣才夠香!

Mainly made of flour, bianshi dumpling is finer than ordinary dumpling, and fuller stuffed than wonton. It is a traditional food for Dragon Boat Festival in some parts of Tiantai.

This is how you make it: prepare a flour dough, chop it into small squares, and use a rolling pin to roll out each square into a thin-skinned, palm-sized disc; put the filling—a well-stirred mixture of cooked radish, dried bamboo shoots, lean meat—into the middle of a disc; fold it and seal its edges.

After it is properly made, it could be cooked in different ways, such as boiling, steaming, and pan-frying. Just member: freshly made and cooked bianshi dumpling is the best, so dig in while it is hot.

糊拉汰

Hulatai Pancake

在天臺的早晨,一張糊拉汰是對早餐起碼的尊重。這是天臺最正宗的小吃之一,以麥粉為原料,調成稀薄而不失其黏性的糊狀,用手把它放在鍋子里攤拉成圓形的薄餅,上面可以放各種餡,比如土豆絲、芥菜、豆芽、茄子、南瓜絲、雞蛋、菜干、豆腐等,菜的添加全憑個人口味決定,一次一個,不到一分鐘就熟,制作方便,香脆可口。

For Tiantai locals, a decent breakfast cannot do without a piece of hulatai pancake, an authentic wheaten snack.

Make a thin yet elastic batter from wheaten powders, its main ingredient, spread some of the batter evenly over a hot pan to create an extra-thin pancake, then add filling on top to your liking: shredded potatoes, mustard greens, bean sprouts, eggplants, shredded pumpkin, eggs, dried vegetables, tofu... It takes less than 1 minute to cook a crispy hulatai pancake—easy breezy.

火燒餅

Huoshao Flat Bread

天臺的火燒餅也是一絕。作為天臺的特色食品,火燒餅的做法既講究又便捷。上好面粉發酵后,拌油酥,捏成餅皮,與用肥膘、細蔥剁碎混成的餡揉作餅狀,再在餅上涂一層噴香的油酥,油酥上撒芝麻,然后貼在火燒餅爐內壁上烘烤成熟。餅在爐中烘烤時的溫度、濕度均極有講究,烘烤時從爐口噴散出的香味,即為活招牌,電影有“聞香識美人”,天臺人那都是聞香吃燒餅。

The recipe of huoshao flat bread, a type of baked, stuffed flat bread, is refined and convenient: make your pastry dough with leavened quality flour, flatten it to make wrappers, and stuff each wrapper with pork fat and chopped shallot as you shape it into a flat bread; brush some pre-stirred oil glaze at the top, which is to be coated with sesame; and press the flat bread onto the side wall of a special stove until it is baked perfectly.

Both the temperature and humidity of the working stove are attention-worthy, so is the aroma coming out of the stove—you know it is time for a ?huoshao flat bread.

三合油泡

Sanhe Fried Gluten Ball

可以和肉一起燒的,除了千張,還有油泡,甚至有時候,覺得油泡比千張更容易吸收肉的精華。只是油泡沒有千張扎實,吃的時候口味也略重,這個時候,配上一碗白米飯最好不過了!說到油泡,最愛的還是三合鎮的油泡,一個油泡滿滿一大口,其本身柔軟而香甜,令人回味。除了燒肉,三合油泡燉筒骨也是美味至極的。

Similar to tofu sheet, fried gluten balls go well with meat. Since they are less dense in texture than the former and absorbs flavors easily, you may need a bowl of rice when eating a meat dish cooked with fried gluten balls, which could taste overly strong. The fried gluten ball made in Sanhe county is highly recommended for its extra softness and sweetness, and it is really delicious when stewed with marrow bones.

天臺豆腐皮

Tiantai Tofu Sheet

天臺的豆腐皮,是既可以做主角又可以做配角的食材,可謂海納百川,有容乃大。它和不同的食材搭配,可以出現不同的效果,干炸響鈴、春卷、楊梅圓、面腦面等我們喜愛的美食中,都有它的身影。天臺豆腐皮具有輕薄、耐烹煮、有營養、便于攜帶儲藏的特點,來一趟天臺,帶上豆腐皮回去送人或自食都是非常不錯的選擇。

Tiantai Tofu sheet is a versatile ingredient, which appears in a wide range of popular dishes including stir-fried bean curd roll, spring roll, meat ball, and noodles. Light, thin, and resilient in texture, it is also nutritious and easy to carry and store, an ideal specialty for travelers to take back and give out as a gift—or enjoy for themselves.

羊腳蹄

Sheep Hoof-Shaped Pastry

在天臺,還有一種面點,因形狀酷似羊蹄,故名羊腳蹄。制作方式也不難,把發酵過的甜面粉做成四周圓、底面平、上面分成四瓣的羊蹄形狀,面上撒上芝麻,烘烤而成,香甜松脆,清香可口。食客們若是吃了太多油膩的東西,這個時候來塊羊腳蹄可以達到吸油的效果。

Sheep Hoof-Shaped Pastry, as the name suggests, is a pastry shaped like a sheep hoof. It is not hard to make: take some leaven sweetened powder and shape it into a sheep hoof—rounded on all sides, flat on the bottom with a top divided into four flaps; sprinkle the top with sesame; and bake it until it is sweet and crispy. This is the kind of take-away local snack that soothes a stomach filled with too many greasy foods, and cheers visitors up whenever they feel tired and hungry.

雞子茶

Egg Tea

雞子茶不是茶,其實它就是白開水打雞蛋,其工藝簡單,操作方便,尤其適合秋季去燥補氣。在煮雞子茶時按個人喜好,加些枸杞、紅棗、桂圓、紅糖、黃酒……滿滿一碗佐料豐富的雞子茶下肚,別提有多滿足了!

Egg tea is actually no tea at all. Making egg tea, or rather boiling water with whipped egg, is as simple as it sounds: while keeping the “tea” boiling, add some goji berries, red dates, dried longan fruit, brown sugar, yellow wine...the way you like it. It is a wholesome drink for autumn, for it helps reduce internal body heat and invigorate vital energy.

石蓮豆腐、青草糊

Shilian Tofu and Green Grass Jelly

石蓮豆腐是白色的,是以石蓮果實為原料做成的飲品。石蓮果實,就是屈原在《離騷》中提到的“薜荔”。制作時取其果實石蓮子,裝入布袋,用井水浸泡,在水中反復搓揉,擠出果實內的膠汁,經過大約半小時,膠汁冷凝后即成晶瑩剔透的石蓮豆腐。

而青草糊是黑色的。做青草糊的原料為“青草”, 青草有降火氣、解熱、消暑、清血等功能,將其拿來熬煮,便成為了青草糊。青草糊色澤棕黑,有點像龜苓膏,不過味道比龜苓膏要好。

Shilian tofu is a drink made from Shilian fruit (climbing fig fruit), and white in color. To make Shilian tofu: pack some Shilian fruit with a cloth bag to soak in well water, rub them repeatedly to squeeze out the gelatinous juice, and leave the juice to rest for about half an hour. Then this silken, crystal Shilian tofu is ready to serve.

Green grass jelly is a black-colored drink made by simmering a kind of “green grass”, which helps cool down internal body heat and clean blood vessels. It looks a little like Chinese herbal jelly, but tastes better.

天臺九大碗

Nine-Course Dish (Jiudawan)

九大碗,是天臺民間嫁囡娶親宴請客人時的傳統菜肴。一共有九大碗,每碗都有意義,上菜的順序也有講究,包含吉祥如意的寓意。而且“九”與“久”同音,故天臺人也把“九”視為吉祥的象征,寓意長長久久。

Nine-course dish (jiudawan) is a traditional delicacy for wedding banquets in Tiantai. Each served in a big bowl, the nine courses are given different meanings, and must thus be served in a special order to deliver an auspicious message of “good fortune”. Because the “jiu”(九) in “jiudawan” (where it means “nine”) ?sounds the same as another Chinese character which means “everlasting” (久), the name of the dish is auspicious as well.

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