葡萄酒的地域與時光

David Aiien Mw

葡萄酒大師（ Master of Wine）：葡萄酒信息搜索網站Wine-Searcher（葡萄酒搜索引擎）的葡萄酒總監。從業近30年，具有豐富的葡萄酒銷售、推廣、培訓、品鑒等方面的知識。

常說喝酒是需要合適的場合的，但碰上合適的地方，在合適的時候，有合適的食物，喝啥酒反而好像沒那么重要了。這期，David Allen MW跟我們分享了一個小故事，看一瓶便宜且普通的葡萄酒是如何讓這位葡萄酒大師回味30年吧。

It needs a specific occasion to taste aspecial wine， but when we encounter a fineplace，a fine timing and fine food， to tastewhich wine seems not that important. In thisissue， David Allen MW share with us a story，which remain in his memory for 30 years.

有種說法是，有些葡萄酒是“經不起旅行”的，當然，葡萄酒能夠耐受運輸過程中被粗暴地對待。大多數的葡萄酒在運輸的過程中因為震動還有溫度變化會碰到“暈瓶”的現象，“暈瓶”現象會造成短期的問題，在上市之前往往等不到時間來恢復。

那時的我是一名年輕的，有闖勁的葡萄酒商，在讀了一本介紹意大利葡萄酒的手冊后，了解到Rocca di Papa的葡萄酒值得一試。這個小鎮是阿爾本山脈的幾個小鎮之一，地處羅馬之上，那里富有的居民在更涼快、更高的地方置有避暑別墅以躲避城里的熱浪。例如，教皇的夏宮就占據了Castel gandolfo的阿爾巴諾湖。

拉齊奧的阿爾巴尼丘不是個出名的葡萄酒產區一它靠近弗拉斯卡蒂（Frascati），出產的葡萄酒也是類似地，用Trebbiano和Malvasia釀造的清爽干型白葡萄酒而出名。至于紅葡萄酒，我們則在產區西北方20公里遠的Olevano合作社里面，嘗到了一種挺討喜的本地品種，Cesenase。

我的一伙伴很熟悉這個地方，在聽到我想要嘗嘗這里的葡萄酒后，就去給我們安排了午餐。他先是找了一家會制作當地“豬肉三文治”的咖啡廳。這不是啥高級菜式，就兩塊厚厚的、新鮮出爐的鄉村面包，中間夾著厚厚的滾燙的烤豬肉。

接下來，我們就去找小酒館喝酒。一個很難想象的，對意大利鄉村十分刻板的印象是一盡管外面是灼熱的天氣，那些石頭建的老舊房子內里卻陰暗且涼爽。幾位戴著平頂帽的老人安靜地圍坐在一張鋪著紅色格子布的小桌子旁玩撲克牌。酒館的主人是一位戴著頭巾的成熟婦人，衣服襯子下是飽經風霜的皮膚。聽到我們想要點葡萄酒后，她打開了房間后面一個粗糙的木門，木門傳來吱吱的聲音，然后她就下去了黑暗的酒窖中。

她回來時手里拿著的瓶子讓我失望了。我一直在等待的這葡萄酒是裝在1.5L的塑料礦泉水瓶里的！這真的是個礦泉水瓶子，瓶子上還貼著原來的礦泉水標簽。甚至這瓶子已經不是第一次用來裝葡萄酒了，因為標簽上還有干掉的酒跡。我們付了相當于25便士然后掉頭就走。

沿著草木環繞的土路走了一小段，就到了阿爾巴諾湖，我們在那邊野餐。那頓鄉村美食的美好，那靠著湖邊的雪松樹投下的樹影，一直靈動地存留在我的記憶中。凍得恰到好處的葡萄酒讓塑料瓶子外面凝結出了水珠。我們就用簡單的酒杯來喝，這葡萄酒有著深檸檬至金黃的色澤，散發出的稻草和梨子香氣完美地搭上了那多汁的豬肉，那豬肉的汁水都浸透面包了。這酒的尖銳感削減了豬肉的肥膩，輕輕的氧化感和酚類的苦味很好地搭上了軟嫩的肉質。低酒精度（11%）讓它成為完美的午餐酒。

顯然用這多汁的豬肉來配這款酒是抬高它了，但它在補充食物味道上也有所作為。地點、天氣、氛圍還有文化讓這成為了一個難得的機會，而這款簡單的葡萄酒讓它升華了。要想在其他地方重溫這樣的組合基本不可能了。

There is a belief that some wines“donot travel" and clearly wine can sufferfrom rough handling during shipmentMost wines acquire some bottle-shockas vibration and temperature variationduring transport can cause sort-termissues for newly shipped wines that arenot allowed time to recover befo re sale

Another aspect of wines “not travelling”is that often they show at their best in theregion of production， consumed in theatmosphere where they were crafted， witha local cuisine which developed alongsidethe wines l first saw this 30-years ago， inltaly， when visiting the town of Rocco diPapa with friends

As a young， eager wine-merchant l wasreading a guide to ltalian wines whichsuggested Rocca di Papa' S wines wereworth trying The small town is one ofseveral in the Alban HillS above Rome- where the city'S wealthy residentshave summer residences allowing themto exchange the city'S heat for cooler，higher-altitude locations The Pope'Ssummer residen ce， for instance， is across

Lake Albano in Castel gandolfoLazio' s Colli Albani is not a famous wineregion - nearby Frascati， making similarfresh， dry white wines from Trebbiano andMalvasia， is better known For red wineswe found pleasant drin king from a localva riety， Cesenase， at the co-operative inOleva no， 20 kilometers to the northwestOne of my companions who knew thetown， on hea ring I wa nted to try the wine，set out to organize lunch for us First，he found a cafe making the local “pigsandwiches” . This was not fine-dining，comprising hunks of piping-hot， roasted-pork between thick slices of freshly-baked rustic bread

Next， we visited the cantina for wineA more stereotypical image of ruralItaly is hard to envisage - the old， stonebuilding' s interior was dark and cool，despite scorching heat outside Elderlymen in flat caps silently sat round smalltables with red check tablecloths， playingca rds The proprietor was a mature ladywith a head-scarf， her weather-beatensk： n was heavily lined On our request forwine she opened a coarse wooden doorat the back of the room， which creakedatmospherically， and descended into thedark cellar

The bottle she carried when she returneddisappointed me This wine I had sought-out came in a 15 litre plastic mineral-water bottle！ It was clearly a mineral waterbottle as it still bore the mineral waterlabel Nor was it the first time this bottlehad held wine either， as there appearedto be wine-stains dried onto the labell Wepaid the equivalent of 25 pence and left

A short walk along a dusty path borderedby parched grass led to Lake Albano，where we picnicked The magnificenceof that rural meal， in the shade of cedartrees， beside the lake， remains vivid inmy memory The beautifully chilled wineensured the plastic bottle glistenedwith condensation Consumed fromsimple glass tumblers， the wine had adeep lemon-gold colour and straw andpear aromas that perfectly matched thesucculent pork， whose juices infused thebread The wine' s sharpness cut throughthe pork' s fattiness， slight oxidativetouches and phenolic bitterness playedwonderfully against the tender meatLowish （c11 %） alcohol made this a perfectlunchtime-wine

Clearly pairing it with juicy pork flatteredthis rustic white wine， but it also playedits part by complimenting the food Thecombination of place， climate， atmosphereand culture made this a sublime occasion，enhanced by the simple wine Recapturingthis combination elsewhere would beimpossible！