南方有嘉木

文/五花肉

南方有嘉木

A Magnificent Tree Growing in the South

文/五花肉

茶，始于中國，貴為“國飲”，與可可、咖啡并稱為世界三大飲品。關于茶的文字記載最早出現在《神農本草》當中，“神農嘗百草，日遇七十二毒，得荼（即茶）而解之”。在此后4 000多年的歷史長河中，茶的品類不斷豐富，宴飲之道日趨規范，形成了許多獨具地域特色的茶文化。茶，成為了具有世界影響力的大眾飲品。

Tea, originating from China, is known as the national beverage. Tea, cocoa and coffee are considered as the world's three major beverages. As Shennong's Classic of Materia Medica mentioned, Shennong ever suffered 72

poisons in tasting hundreds of herbs and found tea was the detoxifcation, which is the earliest record of tea. Over the next four thousand years, tea becomes more diverse and tea ceremonies become more standardized. As a result, it forms numerous tea cultures with local characteristics. Tea, hence, becomes pervasive over the globe.

從祭品到茶食

From Tribute to Food

自被神農發現茶具有解毒功效后，茶就開始成為早期世人用于祭祀的供品。《周禮?地》中有“掌茶”和“聚茶”以供喪事之用的記載。

Tea began to serve as tributes in China since its disintoxicating effect had been discovered by Shennong. There are some records of the tea's usage for the funerals in the chapter Offices of Earth of Rites of Zhou.

到了春秋時期，茶的食品屬性開始受到重視。《晏子春秋》記載晏嬰身為齊國國相，喜食“茗菜”，“晏相齊景公時，食脫粟之食，炙三格五卵，茗菜而已”。此時，茶的食用雖仍處于初期階段，“掌茶”和“聚茶”的基本規范卻日漸成熟，為后續茶道的發展奠定了標準化的基礎。

The food attribute of tea did not be valued until the Spring and Autumn Period. The Spring and Autumn Annals of Master Yan recorded: When Yan Ying was a prime minister in ancient state of Qi, he ate nothing but millet, a few poultry and eggs, and some tea food. At that time, tea, as the food, still remained at the initial development stage. However, as the tribute, its basic norm had been gradually matured, paving a way to standardization in Teaism.

從宮廷到民間

From Court to Folk

西漢后期到三國時代，茶逐漸成為宮廷的高級飲品。漢代《趙飛燕別傳》中，有一節關于飲茶的記載，“適吾夢中見帝，帝自云中賜吾坐，帝命進茶。”

From the Late Western Han Dynasty to the Three Kingdoms Period, tea gradually became the premium beverage in the royal. In Han Dynasty, Biography of Zhao Feiyan mentioned that I dreamt of the emperor and I was granted to be seated and a cup of tea.

到了唐代，茶飲已深入民間。此時，有關于茶的專著陸續出現，最為知名的是陸羽的《茶經》，“茶者，南方之嘉木也”。同時，陸羽將普通飲茶升格為一種美妙的文化藝能，謂之“茶道”。

In Tang Dynasty, tea became popular among the folks. Monographs on tea came out successively. Lu Yu's TheClassic of Tea was the most notable one. Tea, is the magnificent tree growing in the South, Lu Yu noted in his book. At the same time, Lu Yu turned tea drinking into a wonderful art and called it Teaism.

茶道要遵循一定的規矩。唐代為克服九難，即造、別、器、火、水、炙、末、煮、飲。宋代為三點與三不點品茶，“三點”：新茶、甘泉、潔器為一，天氣好為一，風流儒雅、氣味相投的佳客為一；反之，為“三不點”。

One must follow certain rules and standards of Teaism. In Tang Dynasty, standards were developed in nine aspects including tea processing; quality discrimination; tea set; fire; water; roasting; grinding; boiling; and drinking .In Song Dynasty, three were "three dos and three don'ts" rules. The "three dos" rules, namely selecting fresh tea, fountain water and clean tea set; drinking in a good weather and accompanying guests of elegance and friendship.On the contrary, there were " three don'ts" principles.

從中國到世界

From China to the World

“茶道大興，王公朝士無不飲者”，唐代茶文化大興，通過貿易、交流等渠道傳播到世界各地。比如日本茶道，即得于唐，后舉國上下盛行飲茶之風，并在修行人所追求的精神境界中，將茶道進一步提純為一門“和、敬、清、寂”的禪

門藝術，禪茶一味，道在茶中行。

Teaism prevailed, and the nobility and the imperial court officials all drank tea. In Tang Dynasty, tea culture was very popular, and spread to the rest of the world via trade and communication. For example, Japanese Teaism was influenced by the Tang Dynasty, and then the habit of drinking tea penetrated people's daily life quickly. The Japanese Teaism had been further refined as an art of Zen featuring harmony, respect, limpidness and quietness in the spiritual realm pursued over time with self-cultivation. Thus a subtle blend of tea and Zen was formed, the Teaism fully embodied in the tea art.

結 語

Conclusion

茶，不僅為世人帶來口感上的愉悅，更在發展傳承中進化成為精神上的享受，是為道也。在地域文化和儀式規范的雙重滋潤下，茶道逐漸從東方走向世界，成為重要的文化圖騰之一。

Not only does the tea boast delightful taste but also it gives us spiritual enjoyment of Teaism during the development and inheritance. Teaism is spread over the world from the East with the influence of regional cultures and ceremonial rules, and becomes a typical cultural icon of the eastern world.

（支持單位：上海市質量和標準化研究院）