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機場?秀場!

2016-05-17 06:22:05
空中之家 2016年7期
關鍵詞:時裝品牌

機場?秀場!

Fashion comes and goes in a circle.

Six decades have past since “Jet Set” fi rst dazzled the fashion circle. And now it’s back again.

American fashion critic Diana Vreeland once said: “The eye has to travel.”

And to urbanites staring at a computer screen all day, an escape to the beach in the summer is no doubt what we all deserve.

時尚是一場周而復始的輪回。

距離“空中度假風”首創已經過去6個世紀。而今年,這個潮流再次席卷全球,各大時裝品牌不惜成本地排兵布陣,紛紛將秀場布置成機場、游輪和海島。美國時尚教主戴安娜·弗里蘭說過,“眼睛需要去旅行”。而對于終日生活在水泥森林的都市人來說,夏季正是打扮時髦去旅行的最佳季節。

In the 1950s, fl ying was only a luxury exclusive to the upper class. During the summer time, the royal and the rich would dress themselves casually, and take a private jet to the beach and parties. This style was later called “Jet Set”.

As artist Andy Warhol said, the invention of the jet plane changed both New Yorkers' party life and the upper class's dressing style. The best example of this style is Jacqueline Kennedy, “the most beautiful fi rst-lady” in the American people's eyes. Her famous look was when she wore tailor-made dresses or wide leg trousers, and casually wrapped up her lustrous hair in a silk scarf. The moment she steped out of the plane, fl ashes started to go off, and soon her look would be the most talked about subject for fashion magazines.

Since then, the“Jet Set”style has become a permanent resident in the fashion industry. Revolving around the“Jet Set”, designers bring out costumes of different seasons every year, such as “Resort/Cruise Style” and “Pre-Fall Style”.

Among all the Hollywood stars and celebrities that have their airport snaps taken every summer, Victoria Beckham is de fi nitely the leading fashion trendsetter for of fi ce ladies. To her, a wise investment in fashion products would be to spend on simple and practical high-quality items.

Pop-star Rihanna, on the other hand, brings “High Street Fusion Style” to the public's eyes. Her “Jet Set” would involve mixing up major luxury brands with high street fashion brands or even sports brands. Rihanna represents the “new era” of fashion, in which there is no clear ranking system for beauty, while every individual interprets his/her own rules and labels differently. One can either dress like an orthodox “Jetsetter”, or simply go for the“Off-duty Style”: takes a break from make-up and wears a baseball cap. To some extent, the evolution of “Jet Set” also re fl ects the change in fashion.

在上世紀50年代,歐陸旅行還是個非常時髦的概念,上流社會的名流名媛們穿著休閑地乘坐私人飛機去一些普通人沒去過的海岸度假或者游走于各大盛會和派對之間,這種穿衣風格被稱為“空中度假風(Jet Set)”。

藝術家安迪·沃霍爾曾說過:“上世紀60年代噴氣式飛機的出現改變了紐約的派對生活,也改變了上流社會的穿著風格。”而這種風格的最佳代表就是美國人心目中最美的第一夫人杰奎琳·肯尼迪。她是全世界時髦女性的模仿對象。她用高級絲巾不經意地包住她那充滿光澤的秀發,身穿剪裁考究的洋裝或帥氣的闊腿褲裝,手提質感奢華的手袋,優雅地邁出飛機艙門,吸引各大媒體的閃光燈與贊美。

其實,旅行中追求時髦造型的摩登旅客們早就引起了時裝設計師們的注意,這也是他們從以前開發一年兩季(春夏、秋冬)到現在開發出一年多季服裝包括度假、早秋系列的原因之一。而諸如好萊塢明星的機場造型的機場街拍文化更是令時尚度假風火熱得一發不可收。維多利亞·貝克漢姆就是其中佼佼者,如果杰奎琳·肯尼迪代表著上世紀的名媛風,那么貝嫂就是當今摩登都會簡約干練的職業女性代表。她告訴我們將金錢投資在精簡、實用、優質的單品上更為重要。而新一代潮流偶像蕾哈娜則宣告著高街混搭時代的來臨,她的機場造型總是隨性地將時裝大牌和街頭潮牌或者運動品牌混搭。在新世代眼里,時尚沒有高低貴賤,自我的演繹粉碎了各種標簽和規則,旅行時可以盛裝打扮,只為取悅自己,也可以一個口罩與世界隔離,用棒球帽加素顏淡定地演繹下班后的穿搭。從某種程度上說,機場時尚的演變也反映了時尚文化的潮流變遷。

Sunshine + Denim = Summer

Jeans used to be the outcasts of the luxury world, but now even the top luxury brands have started to use denim as material. Some are printed with delicate patterns, some are cleaned-up and strapless, while some other denim-on-denim are cool and loose.

牛仔變奏

陽光加丹寧總是帶著夏天的味道。曾幾何時,牛仔單品難以登上大雅之堂,而如今即使最奢侈的時裝品牌也會拿丹寧做文章。不滿足于背帶褲、A字裙這種基本款,時裝品牌紛紛在設計上響起了變奏,在全身牛仔服上印上精致的印花圖案或將牛仔布以硬朗的方式包裝,在剪裁上也巧花心思,加入寬松廓形或者露肩的設計。

Sporty Fusion

In 2016, fusion style is the new favourite. Sports style is no longer just sneakers and baseball cap. Instead, pull-overs can go with maxi dresses, while polo shirts can be made feminine, casual, and even sexy.

運動混搭

在追求個性的年代,誰說運動風就一定要穿球鞋戴棒球帽? 混搭才是高衣Q的表現,例如將運動套頭衫搭配拖地長裙,或是為Polo衫注入女性化特質,在貼身剪裁的網布長裙上注入荷葉邊,由此看上去慵懶隨性,剛柔并濟。

Tropical Look

Nothing suits tropical backgrounds better than floral-patterned long dresses. Decorated with brightcoloured tropical flowers, those chiffon full-length dresses are going to make you look like a charming fairy.

花式度假

沒有什么比印花長裙更具假日風情的了。花卉圖案滿載異域風情,艷麗的熱帶印花鋪滿長裙;輕薄的雪紡材質完美展現婀娜的姿態,長及腳踝的裙擺讓你行走間仙氣飄飄、風情萬種。

Navy Style

The ocean never ceases to inspire the “Cruise Style” designers. As an essential for any summer wardrobe, a striped sailor dress in navy blue is always going to stay classic and fashionable. And this season, “Navy Style” is featured with “off-shoulder” or“one-shoulder”.

情迷航海

大海永遠是度假風的靈感之所在,而航海風更是春夏衣櫥必備之選。經久不衰的海軍條紋、海軍藍等元素歷久彌新。今季選擇的重點在于露出頸部到香肩的迷人線條,無論是一字肩露出美麗的鎖骨還是低調性感的單肩裝都是夏季最清爽的吸睛造型。

THE AIRPORT AS STAGE

Text by Cherry Shao Translation by Madz

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