一桌不簡單的飯

一桌不簡單的飯

A MEAL THAT IS NOT SIMPLE

The Chinese New Year's Eve Meal is no simple meal.The respect for heaven, earth and gods, the hope for prosperity, the gratitude for nature, the deep love for the hometown, are all included in the orders, dishes, ingredients and the scale of this meal

Text by Ge Rufeng&Lan Xiaojiang Translation by Tao Wenjia Photos by Zeng Jian Special thanks to The Ritz-Carlton Guangzhou 拍攝協助：廣州富力麗思卡爾頓酒店

Roasted Suckling Pig and roasted goose are necessities for the Cantonese.Those dishes are first used as sacrificial offerings for Gods and ancestors, then people will share the dishes.The most difficult part of the pig to cook is the pigskin.Normally, the BBQ sauce needs to be applied a day before, and you have to be careful about the cooking temperature.The best pigskins are crispy and tender.——demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng (Executive Chinese Cheaf,The Ritz-Carlton Guangzhou)

烤乳豬、燒鵝，是廣東人過大節時必備的食物。先用來敬神、祭祖，而后分食。烤乳豬最難的是皮，通常要提前一天刷醬料處理，烤時要注意火候，皮焦肉嫩最好吃。——郭元峰 制作講解（廣州富力麗思卡爾頓酒店，中餐行政總廚）年夜飯，不是普通的一餐。在它的序次、菜式、食材、規模中，蘊含著中國人對天地神的敬畏，對家族興旺的期許，對自然的感恩，對一方水土的戀戀深情。

ETIQUETTE: SHARE THE MEAL WITH GODS

There are many traditional rules about the Spring Festival feast.From these ceremonial traditions, you can sneak a peek at the tip of the iceberg that is the traditional Chinese Culture.You should have porridge for Laba Festival, dumplings on New Year's Eve, Glutinous Rice Balls on the 15th of the fi rst month of the lunar calendar.There are rules about when to eat what, and each rule has its special meaning, such as worshipping gods, staying up late through the New Year, and family togetherness.The culture of worshipping ancestors and gods are presented in the New Year's Eve, too.In many places, you have to light up fi recrackers before the meal, and put up a few dishes fi rst to allow ancestors and gods to taste fi rst to show people's respect.

禮儀：人神共饗

春節年飯有許多講究，從這些儀式感極強的習俗中當能窺探中國傳統文化的冰山一角。臘八節煮臘八粥，年三十晚上吃餃子，正月十五鬧元宵煮湯圓，何時吃什么都有規定，每個規定背后都有其特別的意義，比如祭神、守歲、團圓。中國人敬奉祖先、神明的文化在年夜飯當中也有體現，在中國許多地方，開飯前需鳴放鞭炮，烹制好的菜肴需取少量置于盤中，讓祖先、神明先享用，以示敬重。

年夜飯又叫團圓飯，一家人圍坐一處，共進晚餐。一家之主主位坐定，余者按照年紀、輩分依次入座，以示長幼有序。上菜同樣有序，先冷盤，即開胃菜，之后是主菜，中國人認為偶數是吉數，因此主菜數量也多為六、八、十六等偶數。主菜之后，以湯收尾。用餐者身前擺放諸多器皿，筷子、湯匙、湯碗、茶杯、酒杯等等，這一系列的餐具要與菜品搭配。

The pronunciation of fish is the same with "abundance" in Chinese, so fish dishes represent the hope of harvest and abundance for the next year.The fish dish on the New Year's feast needs to keep the head, tail and the general form of the fish for better luck.-demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng

魚與“余”同音，代表豐收富足，也是年飯上必備的菜。過年吃魚，一定要留頭留尾，保證完整的形狀。——郭元峰 制作講解

The pronunciation of fish is the same with "abundance" in Chinese, so fish dishes represent the hope of harvest and abundance for the next year.The fish dish on the New Year's feast needs to keep the head, tail and the general form of the fish for better luck.-demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng

魚與“余”同音，代表豐收富足，也是年飯上必備的菜。過年吃魚，一定要留頭留尾，保證完整的形狀。——郭元峰 制作講解

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ALLEGORY: IN THE NAME OF GOOD FORTUNE.

During the Spring Festival, Chinese have their best meals on the table with all kinds of delicacies.Each dish has a different meaning, in which the special features of the local cuisine are re fl ected.Chinese care a lot about having a good beginning to make a good sign for the whole activity.Not surprisingly, the New Year cooking has lots of dishes of auspiciousness.The Chinese give every dish an auspicious name that means good luck in the coming year.They wish everyone to be happy, healthy, safe and successful.

The names of auspicious dishes are created either because they look like certain auspicious things, or because the pronunciations are similar.For example, in North China, people boil dumplings and noodles together and name it“Gold string through shoe-shaped silver ingot.”In South China, people cook fi sh for the hope that there will be more than abundant resources in the coming year.There are also dishes called“ fi ve blessings”, “Three Sheep for luck”, and“Opportunity Knocks”, etc.All are named after certain auspicious pronunciations and shapes for good luck.“fi ve blessings”,“Three Sheep for luck”, and“Opportunity Knocks , etc.All are named after certain auspicious pronunciations and shapes for“Opportunity Knocks””, etc.All are named after certain auspicious pronunciations and shapes for

寓意：以福為名

春節，中國人的餐桌上擺著滿漢全席、各類珍饈，每道菜肴都有不一樣的含義，當地的飲食特色在其中都會有所體現。諸事開始之際，中國人講究討個好彩頭。因此春節烹飪的眾多美食也大多有說道，這便是新年吉祥菜。中國人為烹制好每一道菜品取一個吉祥的名字，寓意新年新氣象，新的一年吉祥安康，萬事順利。

吉祥菜的名字或象形，或諧音。如，北方人春節將餃子與面條同煮，取名“金絲穿元寶”。南方人做魚，稱之“年年有余”。此外還有五福臨門、三陽開泰、鴻運當頭等諸多菜品，皆是據食材的品名、形狀、搭配，取其吉祥安康之意。

TIME：FAREWELL TO WINTER AND WELCOME TO SPRING

The Lunar New year coincides with winter, so seasonal ingredients are limited.Cabbage and radish are the most common vegetables, but of course there is also chicken, duck, fi sh and seafood.Bamboo shoots, chrysanthemum and Lotus root, bolt, and other seasonal vegetables also become delightful healthy dishes alongside ones of meat.Such dishes are welcomed by Chinese nowadays.

Before the time when chicken, duck, fi sh, and seafood could be found on the tables of ordinary people, Chinese were smart enough to save some food for the most important meal of the year.Ham, bacon, salted fi sh, seasoned duck, dried radish, and sour bamboo shoot, all became delicacies on the dinner table during Spring Festival.

Meanwhile, as the most sign ifi cant feast of the year, The Spring Festival feast has all the best ingredients.Livestock is one important feature of the agricultural culture of China.Every year, in Northeast China, farmers tend to slaughter a oneyear piglet for different dishes to thank the family and friends who have been working hard for a whole year.In coastal areas, succulent seafood is processed into various forms to be made into various delicious dishes.

For people today who care more and more about healthy meal, vegetables became more and more important for the New Year's feast.During the Spring Festival, Chinese cabbage and mushrooms are the most seasonal vegetables.- demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng

對于越來越注重養生的現代人，蔬菜是一桌葷腥外，最不可少的部分。過年時節，大白菜、菌類正是好吃的時候。——郭元峰 制作講解

時令：送冬迎春

春節適逢冬季，當季食材有限。除了雞鴨魚肉和海鮮，大白菜、蘿卜是最常見的蔬菜。冬筍、蒿菜、蓮藕、菜苔、菌菇等時令蔬菜，也成了滿桌葷腥中，亮眼的存在，頗受講究養生的現代人歡迎。

在那些雞鴨魚肉、海鮮難入尋常百姓家和反季節蔬菜尚未出現的年代，中國人就利用自己的聰明才智將部分食材留存至一年中最重要的春節享用。火腿、臘肉、腌魚、醬鴨、蘿卜干、酸筍……都成為春節中國人餐桌上的美味。

同時，作為一年當中分量最足的盛宴，中國人往往奉獻出最重要的食材。豢養牲畜是中國農耕文明的一大特點，在中國東北，逢年關，農戶往往將豢養一年的肥豬宰殺，做成殺豬菜，犒勞忙碌了一整年的全家和親朋。而在沿海地區，冬季肥美的海鮮早早被處理成各種形式，組合成多樣美味。

Add brown sugar into the glutinous rice cake not only helps to make a moderate level of sweetness, but also good for one's health.This way of cooking conforms with the Chinese philosophy of food.- demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng

年糕里加黑糖，不但甜味適度，而且有補身的效果，符合中國人吃的哲學。——郭元峰 制作講解

PEOPLE: HAPPILY TOGETHER

Dim Sum and deserts are normally the fi nal course of the New Year's Eve dinner.After enjoying a big feast, a bowl of TangYuan, or a piece of sticky glutinous rice cake are like a dot to complete the year of hard work.At this time, the atmosphere of the whole table will be much more relaxed.People start to chat about everything and nothing, no more orders nor etiquette.The younger generation wish the elders the best next year, and the elders give "red packets" to the young with some treats.It's the happiest time of the year for children.They bring their treats on the street to compare and share with their friends.As such, the happiness expands from a family, to a street, to a village, and to a city.

In Guangdong area, the 7th of the fi rst month is the day of man.On this day, people invite their relatives and friends home to have dinner together so their bonds will be stronger.On the 15th, there will be shows and dragon lantern performances in villages before a huge feast for the whole village.Only after that does the New Year celebration come to an end.

人情：甜蜜歡聚

點心和甜品，通常是年飯中的最后一道。享受了一整桌的盛宴后，來一碗熱乎的湯圓，或者一塊又黏又滑的年糕，就像給這辛苦的一年，畫上完滿甜蜜的句號。這時的人們已然酒酣耳熱，開始各自說著親熱話，不再拘泥于開席時的座次和禮儀。小輩們開始向長輩們說吉祥話拜年，長輩們將準備好的紅包塞給小輩們，隨手總不忘再加上幾個點心。這是孩子們一年最快樂的時候。他們迫不及待地帶著點心走到街道上，與鄰居的小伙伴們比賽、分食各家的美味。年中的人情味，也從一家一戶，延伸到一條街、一個村、一座城。

在廣東，在初七有過“人日”的習慣。這一天，在家里擺上幾十圍酒，請親戚好友、同行至交，也是一種情感的交流和溝通。年十五很多地方更要做大戲、舞龍燈，然后，全村全族一起享用隆重盛大的聚餐，這個“年”才算真正過完了。