畬鄉(xiāng)大漈千古情

畬鄉(xiāng)景寧的旅游勝地大漈，在創(chuàng)建4A景區(qū)時面貌煥然一新。游客接待中心、游步道、整治后的小溪、小橋流水、農(nóng)家小院，使得原本就恬淡、空氣清新的自然景觀，更增添了高山特色的韻味，不愧為具有畬鄉(xiāng)風(fēng)味的避暑勝地。

畬鄉(xiāng)大漈出現(xiàn)了跨越式的新農(nóng)村景象，與原有的自然景觀和宋代建筑有機(jī)地結(jié)合在一起，呈現(xiàn)出既古樸、原始而又有現(xiàn)代意味的意境。古樹、石墻圍繞著的時思寺，最具歷史性的古寺廟讓人難以釋懷，需要細(xì)細(xì)解讀，似乎每一段歷史的風(fēng)云起伏都寫進(jìn)了古寺這些精雕細(xì)刻的斗拱中！

時思寺始建于宋紹興十年，原名“時思院”。明洪武元年誠意伯劉基書額“時思道場”，宣德元年改院為寺。因地處高山僻壤，整個寺廟至今保存著宋代建筑，這在全國也是罕見的。2001年時思寺經(jīng)批準(zhǔn)為國家文物保護(hù)單位。

時思寺占地面積1193平方米，集大雄寶殿、三清殿、心經(jīng)鐘樓、馬仙宮、三門等古建筑群，展示了集藝術(shù)、智慧、思想、道義于一體的古建筑風(fēng)貌。有人說它是一本史書，有人說它是一醞陳釀，更有人說它是一座豐碑，不論怎么比擬，說它是一首史詩是無疑的。它承載著畬鄉(xiāng)在歷史的長河中修煉成獨(dú)具魅力的風(fēng)景，見證了這里的人們繁衍生息的風(fēng)云變幻。

“層巒遠(yuǎn)上最高山，十里平疇碧幾灣。隱隱寺藏紅樹里，沉沉鐘出白云間。青纏墻壁藤蘿古，翠映峰門松柏間。翹見時思題額在，文成遺墨快檐攀。”清代儒士嚴(yán)用光寫下形象逼真的詩篇歌頌時思寺。時思寺的魅力不僅僅是它獨(dú)具一格的宋代建筑風(fēng)貌，還在于它有生動的歷史故事，因而顯得更為神秘。

據(jù)傳，一位名叫梅元屃的孩童，祖父亡故，他就在墓邊虔誠地守孝，歷時長達(dá)三年之久。父親見此，在墓旁搭起草庵備其守孝。當(dāng)時的府縣聞此，感動至深，上奏朝廷，宋高宗皇帝下發(fā)批文，遂賜金帛，封為“孝童”，并為庵門題額“時思院”，時思寺由此而得名。

一年四季，古寺隨著這里氣候的變換演映出一幅幅美麗生動的山水畫卷，確切地印證了“千載人文詩、萬卷生態(tài)畫”的自然景觀。筆者最喜歡冬天里的時思寺，喜歡在雪里尋找那一抹安靜。記得那年雪后，古寺一如晶瑩的冰雕，平日飛檐翹角的寺廟顯得很寧靜，時思古剎建筑群，在雪中靜默著，緩緩講述著宋朝年間那位年僅七歲的“孝童”故事。名聞遐邇的千年柳杉王披雪掛冰，默默記錄著大漈800多年的歷史變遷和風(fēng)云變幻。千年柳杉王樹心已成空洞，在樹洞里足足可以放一張八仙桌，再坐八個人，可見樹身之大。這是浙江省最大的柳杉樹，比西天目山的“大樹王”還要大。那次筆者在寺邊、在柳杉樹下，足足待了一上午，仿佛心靈得到了一次最好的洗禮．．．．．．

大雄寶殿內(nèi)，微風(fēng)輕拂，古松發(fā)出沙沙的響聲，流淌出一種古寺如泣如訴的情調(diào)。建筑風(fēng)貌依舊的古寺，在雪后觀賞更讓人陶醉，柳杉掩映分外妖嬈、迷人。它的文化積淀是極其深厚悠遠(yuǎn)的，走進(jìn)古寺一如走進(jìn)水墨畫里的一撇一捺。一座建筑是人類生活形態(tài)的表現(xiàn)，當(dāng)藝術(shù)積淀到了一定的厚度，其綻放出來的就不僅僅是艷麗與高雅了。

如果說古寺是一支歌，那飽經(jīng)滄桑的飛檐碧瓦就是那不變的音符。它歷練、凝重、內(nèi)斂，亦獨(dú)具風(fēng)采，為這里的人們留下了一座值得炫耀的文化遺跡，是大漈人文濃墨重彩的一筆精神財(cái)富。

時思寺寺門兩株一豎一臥的幾百年的“龍柏”，在雪后的寺門前銀裝素裹，顯得特別美麗，與古寺交相輝映。兩株古樹似忠實(shí)的衛(wèi)士一直守護(hù)著古寺，增添了一種自然而淡雅的美。

走進(jìn)畬鄉(xiāng)大漈就是走進(jìn)了一方古老與現(xiàn)代合理布局的高山村落。隨處可見的農(nóng)家樂，起的名也是具有鄉(xiāng)土風(fēng)味：“老梅家”“三畝地”“ 半丘田”等等。落腳就可隨便點(diǎn)幾個農(nóng)家菜的干凈小院，無疑是休閑、放松的最佳去處。高山是原始的，鄉(xiāng)民是憨厚的，民風(fēng)是淳樸的，到大漈如同回到遠(yuǎn)古一樣，享受著古風(fēng)古情。

如果是冬天到了大漈，雪域的大漈就顯得更加的迷人，冷就冷得刺骨，但雪后微微有點(diǎn)陽光透過高高的古樹一閃一閃的，照射著古寺，照射著游人驚奇的面孔，古寺一夜間可以成為多彩的另一番世界。它的美帶著它的靈動亦如這一成不變的格局，無盡的風(fēng)雅、深厚的文化內(nèi)涵都隨著建筑本身一同折射了出來。

“千載人文詩，萬卷生態(tài)畫”。大漈有著永遠(yuǎn)寫不完的故事。時思寺、雪花漈、柳杉王、石馬潛渡、廊橋、小佐古建筑群等等景點(diǎn)，都是需要仔細(xì)研讀的畬鄉(xiāng)詩篇！

A Summer Resort in Ethnic Minority Habitat

By Yan Lingzhu

Daji is a summer resort nestled away in Jingning， a mountainous county in southern Zhejiang Province. About 40 kilometers away from the county seat， Daji sits in an alpine basin at an altitude of more than 1，600 meters above sea level flanked by towering peaks that look like ladders soaring and disappearing into the heaven.

Now an AAAA scenic zone， Daji features a bubbling stream， a booming waterfall， ancient stone bridges， and cottages. The waterfall falls for 70 meters and in three stages. The widest part measures 25 meters wide and the narrowest 8 meters. In the high water period， the waterfall booms as it splashes down， making deafening noises and creating a mist as tall as 200 meters. In dry season， the waterfall is tender and the mist scatters like snow flakes.

The defining centerpiece of Daji as a unique tourist attraction， however， is not the spectacular waterfall. It is the Shisi Temple， a precious prototype of architecture of the Song Dynasty (960-1279). The temple was first built in 1140. In 1368， the structure morphed into an academy and in 1426， it officially became a religious sanctuary. As the location is far away from anywhere， the wood architecture of the Song remains intact and it is a rare phenomenon in China. It is a cultural relic under national protection since 2001.

The temple stands in a 1，193-square-meter compound with a number of halls. The temple in the name may be a little bit misleading as the temple compound displays a number of different religious components. It has a hall for Buddhism and a hall for Taoism. Yet in another hall， a local legendary woman is worshiped as a goddess. The fourth major structure in the temple is a memorial house of the Mei clan. The temple is never a destination for pilgrims. It is a sanctuary for the faithful to stay and contemplate the metaphysics of their chosen faith. Scholars see the messages of art， wisdom， ideology and morality in the architecture. Some describe it as a book of history， a monument， a jar of vintage wine， and an epic.

The temple originated with a seven-year-old boy who missed his deceased grandfather so much that he lived by the tomb for three years. In order to make the mourning easy， the father built a thatched hut for the boy. The county magistrate reported the piety of the boy to the court. The emperor gave the boy a title and named the hut Shisi Compound.

In front of the temple gate are two ancient trees， which local people call “Dragon Firs”， one towering and one hanging low above the ground. They add a touch to the grace of the ancient temple. On a hill slope east to the temple towers a 1，500-year-old Cedar. It was 47 meters tall and now it stands at 28 meters tall due to a lightening that struck the cedar and snapped it and cut it shorter. The diameter of the trunk measures 4.47 meters. The trunk of the giant tree has hollowed. Now you can put a square table inside the hollow trunk and eight people can sit around it. In 2001， someone concluded that it was the world’s oldest of its species.

The temple is only part of the breathtaking beauty that is Daji. Daji maintains its altitude and ancient charms whereas displaying some new aspects of modernization in the village huddled in the basin. Around the basin are many scenic spots with poetic names. Woods in surrounding peaks change colors in spectacular ways as seasons slowly evolve. Some ancient residential houses can be seen in the village. Nowadays， many households double as restaurants and inns and give visitors boarding and meals.