走出深閨話舉巖

1997年夏，有機緣在金華雙龍洞景區住過數十天。其時，常常獨坐石凳，眺望著古木林泉和騰空欲飛的青黃雙龍，而陪伴我的總是一杯香茗。那是園區工作人員送給我的一種狀態很別致的茶葉。它既不似龍井般坦然，也不像毛尖般纖巧，而是蟠曲處隱現茸毫，將那秀美處緊緊地包裹起來。等到沸水入盞，玉體展身時，我才辨出它那典型的上等綠茶特色：嫩綠清亮，銀翠交輝，一股清香直沁口鼻心脾。我在喜得佳茗時曾問及該茶何名？送茶人卻只知產于雙龍洞頂的北山林場，雖亦有專用名似乎不太響亮。我不禁暗自惋惜，如此好茶卻屬無名之輩，真是“楊家有女初長成，養在深閨人未識”！

事隔十余年，當我讀了毛應民君寄來的《千年貢茶說舉巖》一書，才發現自己昔日的認知錯了。曾經與我邂逅于雙龍的甘露，可不是什么“養在深閨人未識”的無名之輩。它大號“舉巖”，別名“碧乳”，唐時就列為貢茶，早在1000多年前就已名滿天下，貴為宮中的上賓了。五代十國時，曾任翰林學士的毛文錫在其所著的《茶譜》中寫道：“婺州有舉巖茶，片片方細，所出雖少，味極甘芳，煎如碧乳也。”宋人吳淑與明代的醫學家李時珍分別在傳世之作《茶賦》和《本草綱目》中都將舉巖茶列為茶中上品。

除了文字記載，在《千年貢茶說舉巖》一書中我還讀到了大量關于此茶鮮活的神話傳說。玉皇大帝派金童玉女下凡賜種，秦朝得道高人“安期生拋杖栽茶樹”，將舉巖茶的種植史上溯到兩千多年以前。而在東南沿海地區香火甚旺的黃大仙，因為出生在蘭溪，又是在金華北山修的道，與出產于金華北山的“舉巖茶”有“同鄉之誼”，因而將這仙人與佳茗聯系起來的故事就特別多。據《金華府志》記載，黃大仙幼年放羊時，曾隨道士到金華山洞中修煉道法，40年后與兄相遇時羊群已化成了滿山的白石，但黃大仙一聲呵叱，石頭立即變回羊群。那就是有名的黃大仙“叱石成羊”傳說。本書中的《黃大仙叱木成茶》，則寫了黃大仙為搭救名茶遭搶的窮苦老人，將漫山遍野的灌木瞬間變化為一叢叢茶樹的故事。黃大仙不僅以茶濟世，還用茶醫治百姓的眼疾。《黃大仙與<舉巖茶>》就寫了這個故事，還由此將“舉巖茶”的命名權賦予了這位心懷慈悲又神通廣大的本地神祗。朱元璋攻打婺州城時，因軍中眼疾肆虐，求告黃大仙遣道長以茶治愈，朱元璋又賜名“舉眼茶”；又因部將常遇春、胡大海舉起茶村巨巖被選為先鋒，復更名為“舉巖茶”。

傳說故事中令我感興趣的，還有那些與文人雅士沾邊的軼聞趣事。給人印象較深的是《小侍童<偷學>茶藝》與《張志和茶葉換民歌》。這兩則故事的主人公貫休與張志和都是蘭溪人。他們與“舉巖茶”有聯系是很自然的。而貫穿于這兩則故事中還有一人，就是被尊為茶圣的陸羽。陸羽原籍湖北，但他長期居住在湖州，并在那里寫下了世界上第一部茶葉專著《茶經》。在寫作《茶經》的前后，他曾前往包括婺州在內的32州郡考察，對時為貢茶的“舉巖茶”做過調查。所以，《小侍童<偷學>茶藝》中，寫陸羽如何來到蘭溪和安寺，為圓貞禪師煮“舉巖茶”，還是有所依據的。陸羽的《茶經》中有專門章節敘述如何烹茶飲茶，其所烹制的茶自然不同凡響。而聰慧過人的小侍童偷學技藝也完全有可能。但故事妙就妙在這小侍童不是別人，就是日后被前蜀國主封為國師的詩僧貫休。貫休“詩名高節，宇內咸知。善草書圖畫，時人比之懷素、閻立本。”將這么一位名人與陸羽一起牽扯進“舉巖茶”來，雖然與史實不相符，但作為故事還是可以的，投合了普通百姓的心理。

遺憾的是，曾經享譽千年受到宮廷和諸多名人雅士青睞的“舉巖茶”，在歷史變遷中逐漸衰落瀕臨湮沒，以致于我在北山的雙龍洞居住期間，竟然品佳茗而不知其名，生生地將一位“貴夫人”重新打入“深閨”。好在隨著新時期以來傳統文化的復興，老名牌受到了各地應有的重視，拯救舉巖茶也列入金華市的熱門議題。而《千年貢茶說舉巖》的編纂出版，更創造了讓“舉巖茶”走出“深閨”步入大市場的又一契機。東坡居士曾云：“上茶妙墨俱香，是其德也；皆堅，是其操也。”陸游更有詩曰：“矮紙斜行閑作草，晴窗細乳戲分茶”。墨影飄舞，茶香浮動，我沏上一杯青翠的舉巖茶，品故事，品書法，陶陶然之情狀，正如作家王旭烽在該書《跋》中所言：“那偷來的半日浮生，也當得起今人的品質生活了吧！”

（本文作者系青海省文聯原主席）

My Encounter withJuyan Tea

By Chen Shilian

I stayed in the Double Dragon， a scenic spot in Jinhua in central Zhejiang， for about a month in the summer of 1997. More often than not， I was able to sit on a stone bench looking out at the ancient woods and listening to a bubbling stream. I enjoyed my leisure with a cup of tea offered by the staff of the scenic spot committee. The tea was quite different from anything I had tasted. It looked poetic and smelled refreshing. I wondered what tea it was， thinking it might a famous tea unknown to me. To my disappointment， it was a local produce from a farm nearby. I sighed over the destiny of the unknown but good tea.

Just the other day I found I had misunderstood the tea more than ten years before. What corrected my wrong impression was a book from my friend Mao Yingmin. Entitled “A Folk History of 1，000 Years of Juyan Tea”， the book explains the origin and fame of the tea produced in the neighborhood of the Double Dragon scenic spot. By the Tang Dynasty (618-907)， Juyan Tea had already become a tribute to the royal house. A scholar named Mao Wenxi of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms includes Juyan Tea in his “Records of Tea”. It is also described as a prominent tea brand in other important books in the Song and the Ming dynasties.

The book includes many fairy tales and folk stories about the tea and about people related with the famed beverage. In China， folklore artists can always trace something in their community to gods and immortals and ancient celebrities. Juyan Tea is made noble in the same way by local folklore artists. According to the folk imagination， the Jade Emperor sent a gold boy and a jade girl to Double Dragon. The duo brought seeds from heaven and planted them there. In another folk story， a layman-turned immortal named An Qisheng of the Qin Dynasty threw his cane to the ground and the cane became tea groves， thus tracing the local history of tea cultivation to more than 2，000 years ago. According to some folk stories， the tea even has something to do with a local Taoist immortal and the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Naturally， Lu Yu， the man who wrote the Book of Tea， the world’s first scholarly dissertation on tea， had something to do with Juyan Tea， too. It is said that while the scholar was writing his world-famous book， he did field studies in 32 prefectures including Wuzhou. Folktale writers would most naturally associate the tea with the scholar. The story， however， is absolutely a fiction. In the story， a child servant that helped the tea scholar make tea was no other than Guan Xiu， a Buddhist monk who later became a master to a king. In history， Guan Xiu was born 28 years after the demise of the scholar.

Though many folktales in the book are fictitious， the famous tea’s downfall into anonymity in history is an indisputable fact. This is how and why I had the slightest idea of the glory the tea enjoyed in the Tang and mistakenly believed it was just another nameless local produce. Fortunately， various old brands across China are staging their comebacks now. Juyan Tea as a tribute is now on the government agenda for its revival. The publication of the book is an earnest step to promote and market the tea.