茶，永遠有其苦澀的一面

2011-11-16 06:51:22蔡榮章

茶博覽 2011年4期

■蔡榮章

茶，永遠有其苦澀的一面

■蔡榮章

茶的色、香、味、形受到很多人的談論，茶葉科技人士更是以化學的方式分析得非常透徹。我們曾從形象的差異，藉助各種圖像來比較各類茶的不同風格；在此，我們要從人文面，提出茶葉先天就具有的一種特殊性格，那就是它的苦澀味①。另外還有一種獨特性格是要另外找時間說的「空寂」境界。

喝茶，一般人喜歡它的香、喜歡它的甘②、喜歡不同茶葉的獨特風味；如果說到苦，都說它是先苦后甘，以苦味消退后，甘味顯露的現象激勵人們辛勤工作以求得甜美的成果。但是苦、澀一直是茶葉很重要的成分與滋味，茶的各種香、味與特質都建構在這個基礎之上，只是有些茶因為品種、制法的關系，苦味或澀感會顯得特別的重或特別的輕。也就是這樣的香、味結構，茶湯讓人喝來不覺得膩，而且可以持續一輩子甚至隨著年歲的增長，更加深刻體會它的風骨。

茶的香是光彩、艷麗的，茶的甘是誘惑迷人的，但是自古人們就未曾將茶歸屬于華麗的飲料，因為苦澀的味道與其進入體內以后產生的效應將亮麗的一面壓制了下來，而且發揮了統合的力量，使得茶自古就被認定為精儉③、空寂④、清和⑤之物。這個苦、澀基調尚能相互激蕩，擴大其能量至千萬倍，達到為「情」不惜摧毀自己的地步，這個情可能是自己的理念，可能是自身的境界。日本茶人⑥千利休不就為了堅持自己的茶道思想而被迫切腹自殺，緊跟著還有數位具有同樣理念的茶人以同樣的方式以身相殉。中國唐朝七碗茶詩的作者盧仝也因太有自己的主張而在一次政爭中被殺。飲茶好像不曾被列為「飲酒作樂」的范疇，茶人們喝得很冷靜、喝得很有個性，也喝得很勇敢。

Much of the colour, aroma, taste and appearance of tea have been discussed. Technology has certainly contributed to the scientific study and analysis of this world-loved beverage. We have compared the differences among tea leaves with the help of images. Now, we will be focusing on one of its intrinsic properties, bitterness and astringency①. We would also be looking into another unique ‘character’ of tea, namely the state of emptiness and solitude, in another chapter.

What captivates tea drinkers the world over could be its aroma, mellow sweetness ②and the unique flavour each type of tealeaves offers. Bitterness, in this case, has always taken a back seat－more often than not, it is merely described as what comes ‘before mellow sweetness sets in’. It is, therefore, no surprise that tea is also compared to the hardship before one enjoys the fruit of labour.

Bitterness and astringency are, in actual fact, key properties and distinct tastes of tea. The source of aroma, taste and characteristics of tea can all be traced to its intrinsic bitterness and astringency. As to the bitterness and astringencybeing pronounced or subtle, it is all in the species and processing methods. Such aroma and flavour built on tea’s intrinsic bitterness and astringency explain the beverage’s refreshing appeal. Fashion comes and goes; tea, however, is a life-long affair－the more you get to know it, the more you will be hooked by its uniqueness.

The aroma of tea is exquisite and fascinating, the sweetness alluring. And yet, tea has never been taken as a drink for glamorous occasions, for the simple reason that its bitterness and astringency tones it down, balancing what may have made it emotionally overpowering. With the note of bitterness and astringency, tea is tamed to a beverage demonstrating the qualities of Conviction and Simplicity③, purity and harmony④, and emptiness and solitude.⑤ Do not belittle this seemingly subdued base note; as it goes, this bitterness and astringency may generate an unending chain of reaction, resulting in tremendous force and impact. The preoccupation could become so intense that it may lead to self-destruction, be it out of one’s conviction or circumstances. Sen no Rikyu,Tea Guru⑥ of Japan, for example, was ordered to end his life with ritual suicide, or seppuku, out of his strong belief in the ideologies of tea ceremony. Several advocates of such ideologies after him followed the same sad path. Meanwhile, Tang poet Lu Tong suffered similar fate when his conviction was proved too strong for some people’s liking; he was killed in a political tussle. It seems that tea has never been a‘pleasure’ drink-tea is always sipped with calmness, with style and at times, with courage.