Hanfu Fashion Revival Strengthens漢服時尚強勢復興

Decades ago as a young boy， Zhao Bo loved travelling with his tailor father on visits to ancient towns and villages across China collecting traditional clothes once worn by their Han Chinese ancestors.

二三十年前，趙波還是個小男孩，就喜歡跟著做裁縫的父親一起游歷中國各地的古鎮古村，四處收集他們漢族祖先曾經穿過的傳統服飾。

The 35-year-old comes from a family of tailors in North China and has continued his father’s passion as an adult， collecting more than 2，000 pieces of ancient clothing， and reproduced dozens more by studying antiquities and ancient books.

現年35歲的趙波生于華北的一個裁縫世家，成年后繼承了父親對服飾的熱情。他收藏了2000余件古代服飾，并通過研究古物和古籍復刻了數十件。

Zhao now heads a museum in Yongqing， Hebei province， showcasing antique garments， some more than 500 years old， and handmade replicas of outfits dating back to more than 2，000 years ago.

如今，趙波是河北省永清縣一家博物館的館長。館內陳列著一些有著500多年歷史的古董服飾，以及2000多年前服裝的手工復制版。

An intangible cultural inheritor appointed by the Hebei provincial government to promote Chinese culture， Zhao is a part of a growing movement among younger Chinese that has helped revive hanfu， the name given to clothing once worn by ancient Han Chinese.

河北省政府授予趙波非物質文化遺產傳承人的稱號，他肩負著弘揚中華文化的使命。同時，他也是中國年輕一代日益壯大的漢服復興運動中的一員。漢服，即古代漢族人穿的服飾。

Annual sales of hanfu clothing have leapt from around 190 million yuan in 2015 to more than 10 billion yuan （US$1.45 billion） last year， according to Chinese data analysis firm iiMedia Research1.

中國數據分析機構“艾媒咨詢”的數據顯示，漢服的年銷售額從2015年約1.9億元人民幣躍升至2021年超過100億元人民幣（約合14.5億美元）。

“People barely talked about hanfu when I opened my museum in 2014，” said Zhao. “They didn’t even know whether it meant clothes worn by the Han Chinese throughout history， or clothes specifically worn during the Han dynasty.”

“2014年我剛開博物館時，幾乎沒什么人談論漢服。”趙波說，“當時人們甚至不知道‘漢服’究竟是指中國歷史上漢族人穿的衣服，還是特指漢代的服裝。”

“But about three years ago I started feeling a craze， especially among the youth， unlike before when hanfu fans were often older people，” he said.

“不過，大約三年前，我開始感受到一股漢服熱，在年輕人中間尤為盛行，與之前喜愛漢服的人通常是年長者的情況截然不同。”他說道。

People wearing hanfu-style dress has become a common sight on the streets of major Chinese cities in recent years as increasing numbers of teenagers and young adults turn to the outfits as both a statement of fashion and cultural identity.

近年來，在中國各大城市的街頭，人們身著漢服已經屢見不鮮。越來越多的青少年和年輕人選擇身著漢服，這既是對時尚的詮釋，也是對文化身份的認同。

Hanfu covers clothes worn during a number of China’s historical periods. The most popular styles are from the Tang， Song， and Ming dynasties. The Ming was the last native Han Chinese dynasty to rule China before the Manchu2 seized power in 1636 and formed the Qing dynasty that lasted until 1911.

漢服涵蓋了中國歷史上多個朝代的服裝。唐、宋、明三個朝代的風格最受歡迎。明朝是中國最后一個由漢族人統治的朝代。1636年，滿族人奪取政權，建立了清朝，一直持續到1911年。

Hanfu often consists of a flowing robe in beautiful shades of colour and a skirt with intricate3 embroidery.

漢服通常由一件色彩美麗的飄逸上衣和一條帶有精致刺繡的下裳組成。

Zhao said the in-vogue hanfu attire4 seen on the streets of China today is not exactly what ancient Han people once wore. However， he said it remains a positive promotion of the more authentic hanfu clothing displayed at places like his museum.

趙波表示，如今在中國街頭看到的流行漢服與古代漢人所穿并不完全相同。不過，他表示，對于在他的博物館和其他類似場所展示的更正宗的漢服來說，這仍然是一種積極的推廣。

“Only when there’s great interest from the public will there be people who bother to learn more about hanfu and make it historically accurate，” he said.

他說：“只有當公眾對漢服產生濃厚興趣時，才會有人愿意深入了解漢服，并把它做得符合歷史。”

As China’s leaders have pushed for a stronger sense of national Chinese identity and renewed cultural confidence in recent years， hanfu has become a visual symbol of China’s renaissance.

近年來，隨著中國領導人推動加強中華民族認同意識和重塑文化自信，漢服已成為中國復興的一個視覺象征。

Fashion-conscious youth in Chinese mainland have enjoyed the official promotion and turned hanfu cosplay into a way to express themselves and to connect with history and tradition.

中國大陸追求時尚的年輕人積極響應官方推廣，并將漢服角色扮演作為一種表達自我、與歷史和傳統相聯系的方式。

Lisa Zhou， a 17-year-old high school student from Shanghai， said she was fascinated by hanfu after seeing videos on social media where girls “look like fairies” in historical attire.

來自上海的17歲高中生莉薩·周表示，此前她在社交媒體視頻上看到一些女孩穿著漢服“像仙女一樣”，便對漢服產生了濃厚興趣。

She was also influenced by enthusiasts from her school who formed a hanfu club， something no school had several years ago， she said.

她說，學校里的一些漢服愛好者也影響了她。那些愛好者成立了一個漢服社團，幾年前還沒有學校有這樣的社團。

But the teenager pointed out that she doesn’t just like the clothing because it looks pretty， but it also represents China’s cultural heritage.

但她也指出，她之所以喜歡這種服飾，不僅因為美觀，更因為它承載了中國的文化遺產。

“As science and technology develop quickly， we should not forget our traditional culture. As a member of the new generation， I hope we can revitalise our traditional culture in our daily lives，” she said.

“隨著科學技術迅速發展，我們不應該忘記我們的傳統文化。作為新一代的成員，我希望我們能在日常生活中重振我們的傳統文化。”她說道。

It was for this reason that she wore a hanfu outfit to a recent family gathering， she said.

她表示，正因如此，她最近穿了一套漢服參加家庭聚會。

Such attitudes are common among Zhou’s peers， according to the iiMedia report. Nearly 70 per cent of hanfu enthusiasts surveyed said the top reason they wore the garments was to “promote Chinese culture”， with “looking good” listed as a secondary concern by many.

根據艾媒咨詢的報告，在周的同齡人中，這種想法很普遍。在接受調查的漢服愛好者中，近70%的人表示，他們穿漢服的首要原因是“弘揚中華文化”，而“好看”則是許多人的次要考量因素。

Despite its rising popularity， most hanfu fans tend to only wear the outfits for photo shoots with friends and at traditional festivals， the report said. Only about 20 per cent of them have worn hanfu in their daily lives.

報告顯示，盡管漢服的熱度不斷攀升，但大多數漢服愛好者通常只在與朋友拍照或參加傳統節日活動時才穿著漢服。僅有約20%的人在日常生活中穿過漢服。

Zhao， who wears adapted hanfu on a daily basis， said the best way to preserve tradition was to adapt it to modern life.

趙波每天都穿改良版的漢服。他表示，保護傳統的最佳方式是讓它融入現代生活。

“The government has vowed to build China into a major cultural power by 2035. There are still more than 10 years to go， and I believe during this period we’ll see a continuous surge in traditional clothing，” he said.

他說：“政府下決心到2035年將中國建成文化強國。還有十多年的時間，我相信在這期間，我們將會看到傳統服飾的持續復興。”

（譯者單位：大連外國語大學高級翻譯學院）

1艾媒咨詢，一家中國的全球新經濟產業第三方數據挖掘和分析機構。" 2 Manchu滿族，中國的少數民族之一。

3 intricate復雜精細的；精心制作的。" 4 attire具有獨特風格的服裝，或特定場合穿的服裝。