百年石屋留鄉愁

文、圖／蘇健

巴巴溝村位于甘肅省文縣玉壘鄉，距今有400多年的歷史。Babagou Village is located in Yulei Township,Wen County,Gansu Province,with a history of more than 400 years.

當地先民開山劈石，以石筑屋，用石頭壘起了一個個遮風擋雨的家園。The local ancestors built homes sheltering them from wind and rain by cutting into a mountain,digging stones and building houses with them.

這個留存了無數鄉愁記憶的村莊，正是地處大岷山山系的巴巴溝村。巴巴溝村海拔1200米左右，背靠范壩鎮的讓水河流域，與國家級白水江自然保護區緊緊相連。村落四周群山環抱，綠樹成蔭，溪水潺潺，風景優美，一年四季景不同。

村莊原有28戶100余人，如今，村民已整體搬入山下公路沿線和碧口鎮的新家園。或許是故土難離的情結，又或飽含念舊守宗的不舍，一些老人依然在這里守護著祖輩的印記。

據當地老人講述，他們的祖先來自四川蒼溪。明末清初時期，碧口鎮繁華至極，水運非常發達，商賈云集，貿易興隆。當時，無數的四川人逆水而上，在嘉陵江、白龍江當船夫或以拉纖為生，許多人在碧口、玉壘、范壩、店壩等地娶妻生子、繁衍生息。他們取石為材、以石當瓦，以“人”字形木架和石頭壘墻的方式建成石屋。這些石屋鱗次櫛比，錯落有致，別具特色。山村富有建筑美感和歷史人文價值，是“川之北、隴之南”民居的典型代表，保留著鮮明的農耕文明和甘川文化特點。

歲月輾轉，如今，雖然再也追尋不到纖夫們的身影，但這個古村落、這些石板房卻留下了他們用勤勞和智慧、心血與汗水構筑家園的記憶。走在村里的石路上，如同穿行于歷史的隧道中，每一步都是那樣的凝重，每一棟老屋仿佛都有一個說不完的故事，每一塊石頭都承載著鄉愁。它們，既是子孫兒女追尋的根，亦是熠熠生輝不滅的傳承。

巴巴溝村的每一棟老屋都是祖輩智慧與勤勞的見證。Every old house of Babagou Village has witnessed the ancestors’ wisdom and diligence.

行走在巴巴溝村，隨處可見農家石磨等器具，它們承載著悲歡離合，傳承著農耕文化。Walking in Babagou Village,you can see stone mills and other farm implements everywhere.They carry the vicissitudes of life and the farming culture.

一些老人依然在巴巴溝村守護著祖輩的印記。Some old people still guard the traces of their ancestors at Babagou Village.

On the south of the Baishui River,Yulei Township,Wen County,Gansu Province,there is a 400-year-old village dominated by stone.This village that retains numerous old memories is Babagou Village in the Damin Mountains.With an elevation of about 1,200 m,the village,with its back against the Rangshui River Basin in Fanba Town,is closely connected with the Baishui River National Nature Reserve.

The village originally had 28 households (more than 100 people).Now,villagers have moved to their new homes along the highway at the foot of the mountain and Bikou Town.Perhaps,due to a sentimental attachment to hometown or nostalgic feelings,some old people still guard the traces of their ancestors here.

In the late Ming and early Qing dynasties,Bikou Town was bustling,with developed water transport,a galaxy of merchants and booming trade.In that period,numerous people of Sichuan went upstream,worked as boatmen or boat trackers by the Jialing River and the Bailong River.Many of them built families and lived in Bikou,Yulei,Fanba and Dianba.Using stones and tiles as materials,they built stone houses in the forms of inverted V-shaped timber frames and stone walls.These stone houses,row upon row,are well-spaced and distinctive.Showing architectural beauty and historical and humanistic value,the village is a typical representative of the dwellings in“Northern Sichuan and Southern Gansu”,and retains the distinct farming civilization and cultural characteristics of Gansu and Sichuan.

Now,we can no longer see any boat trackers.However,this old village and these stone houses retain their memory of building their homes with diligence,wisdom,effort and sweat.Walking on the stone path of the village,you may feel as if passing through the tunnel of history.Every step is so solemn;every old house seems to have a never-ending story;every stone carries nostalgia.They are not only the roots for posterity to pursue,but also a shining yet undying heritage.