浙江鄉村的另一種可能

孫昌建

在高速杭州淳安出口附近看到淡竹二字，就會想起三十多年前的那個毛竹園。很多人對于淳安縣千島湖的認知是由一個個地名和鄉名構成的，比如排嶺、汾口、威坪、臨岐、文昌、姜家等。據說早年的淳安有60多個鄉，正如那個碧波萬頃的水庫是由無數滴水所匯成，而這一滴或那一滴又是自帶記憶的。

當中巴車一進入富文地域，就能看見盤山公路上一個個跑步的背影，他們都是水上運動的選手，也許他們中就有參加本屆杭州亞運會的，看他們渾身濕透、努力奔跑的樣子，覺得就是這樣的日復一日、年復一年，每一步、每一槳地越過山丘和水波，才有可能接近心中的夢想。看著他們的背影，特別想下車跟他們聊幾句，因為他們也是這座山、這片水的一個組成部分。不過我還是控制住了某一種情緒，因為此時我看到了遠處的野山櫻，在懸崖邊上，粉色的野山櫻，不多，有那么一兩叢、兩三叢，開得孤獨而傲然，這也是這個季節去山鄉必會遇見的一景。

邂逅野山櫻只是在富文的第一序章。本次去富文，主要還是想去看一眼那所網紅學校，因為我一直對電影外景地頗有興趣，也曾想寫個“電影里的杭州”系列，以后如果真的寫成了，富文應該是其中的一篇。熱門電影《我和我的家鄉》是由四個片段組成的，我仿而學之，亦以片斷記之。

當司機說鄉政府到了，我下了車，卻還是沒有看到鄉政府，準確地說我沒有看到富文鄉政府的房子，后來看到牌子，才明白這是一座由供銷社改造而來的鄉政府辦公樓，它被周邊的民居包圍著，既成不了地標，在地理優勢上也無可說之處。要知道這是在杭州，在著名的千島湖，竟然還有這樣一座鄉政府的辦公樓，它恰好跟網紅小學形成一種鮮明對比。會議室簡陋之至，路過辦公室時人也不敢走進去，因為一走進去，可能就會轉不過身。

入夜后終于可以去看富文中心小學了，因為電影，也不僅僅因為電影。遠遠就看到了燈光，一種溫暖的感覺緊緊地把人包圍，就像有一雙手臂摟住了我，也摟住了整個鄉村的夜晚。

談不上震撼，但觸動還是頗為強烈的，可以稱得上是“最美小學”。我記得我讀小學一年級的時候，我們班的教室就是一間茅草屋，另一個平行班卻已經是磚瓦房了，這么多年過去了，我對此還是有點耿耿于懷的。如果一個地方，一座城市，一個國家，最好的房子是學校，是圖書館，是運動場，那我想那表示社會有了一種倡導和榜樣。

走廊上有小朋友在墻上畫的涂鴉作品，其中有一幅畫的是北京冬奧會，畫了領獎臺，這讓人又一次想起山路上跑步的運動員。其實也很想問問小朋友，他們是怎么看他們的家鄉、看他們的學校的。后來在離開這片燈光去民宿的路上，我看到了夜空中的星星，一眨一眨地亮晶晶。這是喝了富文土燒之后的反應？現在星星似乎成了美麗鄉村的標配，但是光有星星，光有螢火蟲，光有土燒，顯然是不夠的，而現在我們有了一所網紅學校，不，網紅只是標簽，對于鄉村教育和生態，人們可以千言萬語各抒己見，但我相信身處其中所體會到的愉悅感是真切的，只要靜下心來享受就好：不要用燈光去打擾野山櫻的開放，不要用音樂去打擾溪水的流淌。

第二天早上醒來，才仔細打量了一番我所住的房子，這里的民宿有舊房改造的，也有重新建造的，而無論是哪一種，都體現了設計師的理念，即房子也是山水的一個部分。我尤其喜歡園子里的一株紅梅，它在水邊，水上浮著一些落英，這特別容易讓人望梅止渴——此渴非彼渴，那是對美的渴。

還是不能忘記那最美學校，該校還有不少慕名前來就讀的學生，有一位同事的小孩也在那所學校就讀。

又注意到了一景，那是第二天在漠川村村委會門口，有一株并不算高大的桂花樹，被圍欄保護了起來，且立有一塊小木牌，牌上寫著這樣的說明文字：“此地為漠川小學，上世紀70年代，本村小學老師唐三女帶領學生從后山移植了一棵桂花樹種植在此地。時光荏苒，當年的小學已不復存在，而桂花樹依舊亭亭玉立，枝繁葉茂，見證著一代又一代漠川人的成長。”這段文字寫得真好，樸實無華又飽含深情。而這棵桂花樹的對面正是頗有氣派的方氏宗祠，桂花樹的側面是村衛生室，邊上有健康宣傳欄。

今天富文的子弟無疑是有福氣的，全中國、全世界都通過這所網紅小學知道了富文，“知道”就是生產力，從這一點上說，富文的今生要好于前世。

望“文”生義是碼字工的一種基本功。富而有文，文而有富，這是我望“文”生義后的兩種愿景。淳安以前是欠發達縣，尤其是在杭州地區，尤其是跟蕭山和余杭相比;而現在淳安是國家重點生態功能區，一湖秀水，稟賦優越，網紅或最美的聲譽把你吸引過來，但能不能留住客人看星星喝土燒聽漠川潺潺，這還得靠內功。

如今，民宿成了美麗鄉村的標配，而如果從未來鄉村的模式來看，雖然富文已經走在了路上，但仍然任重道遠。民宿要講故事，而富文的故事俯拾皆是。我住在一家叫美客愛途的民宿，早餐則安排在兩三百米外的一家青麓餐廳，它的隔壁就是一家“青麓小姑土貨直播間”，桌上一臺電腦，兩三只手機架，幾根網線。“小姑”看上去很樸素，這幾年她一邊做直播，一邊種菜養雞，還兼做廚娘，她燒出來的土菜，口味明顯要和淡一些。而她帶土貨的直播更是收入可觀，而且經營模式頗有新意。如果問你，688元買一只土雞你要不要？你可能會嫌貴，但如果這只土雞給你一月生20個土雞蛋，一年生240個土雞蛋且包郵到家，一年之后這只土雞歸你，你是不是有點心動了？

同時這家民宿還有一間新安書屋，是縣圖書館的鄉村書屋之一，這里還舉辦藝術展，除了富文的非遺手藝麥秸扇之外，還有現代藝術展，參展的畫家都是國美、央美畢業的研究生。

是啊，從雪坑源到淳雪居，從青坪源到青麓，這不只是名稱的改變，更是一種對于山水的尊重、對于美好生活的分享。據我所知，早先幾十年，從淳安出去的學子在杭州成為各界精英的比比皆是，而這幾年回千島湖創業的又多了起來，這一現象是不是也可以從富和文的框架中去解釋呢？而我們來到富文，來到千島湖，不正是想完成蘇東坡們沒有完成的詩篇嗎？這所富文中心小學，也曾獲得過一個榮譽叫“浙江省詩教先進單位”，這是比網紅標簽更為重要的。

在浙江，富文只有一個，卻也不止一個，富文只是浙江無數個美麗鄉村的縮影。從生態到教育再到民宿，來浙江，你會看到鄉村的另一種可能。

My knowledge of the Thousand Island Lake in Chun’an county comprises of different names of places. It is said that in the early years， there were 60 odds townships there in Chun’an. Just like the crystal-clear reservoir right in front of me eyes is converged by countless drops of water， my memory about this place is also formed by unforgettable moments.

The moment the bus carried me inside the area of Fuwen， I was attracted by the runners covering the winding mountain roads， who must be water sports athletes. Watching them going full speed and all sweaty， I assumed that is how they are running towards their dreams step by step. Just then， I saw at distance some clusters of wild pink cherries by the cliff， a local seasonal view one will surely bump into during this time of year.

But that was only a prelude to my trip today， the purpose of which was to visit a school well-known as a film set. I always long for visiting film sets and have a plan of writing an article series of “Hangzhou in the film”， which， if can be ever realized， should include one about Fuwen.

I finally got a chance to see the primary school when the night fell. The lamp light caught my eyesight from afar， and I felt I was embraced tightly and warmly by a pair of arms. Seeing the primary school as it was， I would not say I was shocked but impressed really， for there was no such schools in Hangzhou. I remembered the classroom of my primary school was but a thatched hut， and realized， after so many passing years， I was still feeling sorry for my younger self. If the best local building is a school， a library， or a sport field， I guess that would set an example to the public.

At the hallway of the school I saw some doodles on the wall drew by the school children. One of them was about the Beijing Winter Olympics， the podium and stuff， and it reminded me of the runners I saw earlier. Leaving the school when I was on the way heading to my B&B for the night， I saw some twinkling stars high above. The next morning， I checked out carefully the building I was staying in， which demonstrated the designer’s philosophy that the house is also part of the natural landscape. I was in particular fond of a red plume in the garden， next to a small pool with some fallen petals floating atop.

However， if we need to better understand the Fuwen village， we may as well take a step back to look at the big picture. As is well-known to all， demolishing and merging village primary schools is a common practice these days. Therefore， among such a vast area — the administrative area of Fuwen is 151 square kilometers， there is only one local primary school. That set me wondering： is there a way to treat the local children better？

Underdeveloped as it was， Chun’an county is now a key ecological area with clear waters. But from the view of the future village， that is far from enough. For starters， B&B， a faithful companions of villages these days， are expected to tell good stories. Take the B&B I stayed for example. The breakfast was arranged for me at a restaurant two to three hundred meters away， next to a studio managed by a young lady. In the studio there is a table with a laptop and some phone holders on it. The lady livestreams to sell goods online for a living; meanwhile， she grows vegetables， raises chicken and does some cooking too. Yet it is online selling using especially smart strategies that has brought her the bulk of her income.

I also noticed the B&B owned a bookshop as well. This is one of the village bookshops administered by the county library， where art exhibits are held occasionally. I could sense in this place a kind of respect for the natural landscape and the intention of sharing a good life.