長島海參

范雅琳

長島生海參，其色如墨，其厚如掌，其韌如筋，其刺如齒，活脫脫一只暗含神力的無柄狼牙棒，乃世間之奇品珍寶。究其因，概上蒼將一顆最大最美的珍珠安放在了北緯37度上。

長山列島，這個“中國唯一的海島國家地質公園、中國十大最美海島”，32座島嶼猶如32顆珍珠、32匹烈馬、32艘戰艦，靜靜地躺在萬頃碧波的浪濤里，馳騁在迤邐遼闊的海疆上，自由地跨越黃渤海分界線那道砌了千萬年的“門檻”，聆聽那瞬間的跌宕起伏里從頭頂上傳來的神靈的梵音，就會揚起心如浪高的萬丈豪情，執著堅毅而且勇猛。這個海上仙境、候鳥的驛站，清美脫俗，美若仙子，宛立在水中央；又若一支龐大的艦隊，威武雄壯，遠遠地就讓人敬仰；非泛舟蕩船而不得入內，又似世外桃源，如天外來客。一灘一岸各不同，一礁一石有傳說，一島一嶼皆風情。海參不是風情物，終被世人所折服，何也？

“河流交匯必有神跡”，何況是大海呢。黃渤海相匯之處，相斥相擁，猶如蛟龍出海，二龍戲珠，掀起狂風，激起巨浪，似雷聲轟隆，萬馬嘶鳴，波濤洶涌，浪花四濺，似有訴不盡的愛恨情仇，纏綿出一片天堂海洋。清靈的海水，肥沃的海泥，孕育著無數的物華天寶。黑亮緊致、豐厚肥實、美若黑珍珠的長島海參低調奢華，獨領風騷，不負眾望，領銜眾鮮，閃亮登場，名揚四方。

這個以海底藻類以蜉蝣生物為食、全身長滿肉刺的小家伙兒，其貌不揚，卻與人參、燕窩、魚翅齊名，為世界八大珍品。其含有的人體所需的氨基酸及多種微量元素、維生素及生物活性物質，無與倫比。其性溫補，入腎，其效抵人參，食藥兩宜。膠東自古有“交九食海參，九九八十一天”為大補之說，足見膠東人對海參的珍視與喜愛。

海參雞湯、蔥燒海參、魚膠燉海參、海參蛋花湯、海參小米粥或發好的海參直接煮蒸蘸食醬油。海參的吃法多種多樣，尤以蔥燒海參最具膠東特色。當蔥白葉綠一副高挑俊秀模樣，一身清鮮、辛辣、香甜之氣的膠東大蔥水靈靈地來到眼前時，嗅覺與味蕾就爭先恐后地開始了工作。加了油的熱鍋，一段段蔥白綠莖，放入煎香，放蒜、姜及老抽再加入發好的海參翻炒加少量水小火燜煮之后，勾芡收汁，醬香、蔥香、鮮香，香氣逼人，海參一身鮮艷的醬衣，容光煥發，蔥段則扯下一縷金色的霞帔緊裹在身上，香妃一般，儀態萬方，就像灰姑娘與王子的浪漫故事，無限美好。

海參生長島，注定大不同。

Fed on undersea algae and mayflies， this little guy with tentacles all over its body is far from being handsome， but it is among the Eight Treasures in the World， ranked with ginseng， the birds nest， and the sharks fin. It contains unrivalled amino acid and multiple microelements， vitamins and bioactivators required by human bodies. Its warm nature nourishes the kidney and its effect rivals ginseng for both medicine and diet. Jiaodong has the saying about the nutrition of sea cucumbers that “having sea cucumbers from the beginning of the coldest period in winter for 81 days” since ancient times， which fully reveals how Jiaodong locals cherish and like sea cucumbers.

Chicken soup with sea cucumbers， braised sea cucumbers with scallions， stewed sea cucumbers with fish gelatin， egg soup with sea cucumbers， millet porridge with sea cucumbers or soaked sea cucumbers boiled or steamed directly and dipped with soy sauce. There is a variety of ways to cook sea cucumbers， of which braised sea cucumbers with scallions are typical in Jiaodong. When the white stalk and green leaves of Jiaodong scallions reveal before your eyes a tall and beautiful appearance and a fresh， spicy and sweet smell， your sense of smell and taste buds vie to start to work. Sections of scallion stalks and leaves are put into a heated pot with oil in it to be fried， added with garlic， ginger and dark soy sauce along with soaked sea cucumbers， stir-fried， added with some water， braised and wetted with starch until it gets thick. It is full of the fragrance of soy sauce and scallions and delicacy. The sea cucumbers are dazzling and coated with bright-colored sauce. The sections of scallions are wrapped by a golden cape like the elegant and fragrant concubine of Emperor Qianlong. It is as boundlessly beautiful as the romantic story of Cinderella and the prince.