皇城腳下：一隅書房 一隅南宋

林蔚然 吳洋

杭州人對南宋非同一般的感情，在生活中隨處可見：有一條街叫南宋御街，有一間書店叫南宋書房，有一家糕點叫南宋胡記……這一次，讓我們沿著這條南宋曾經的街道，走進這間南宋主題的書房，像宋人一般靜心看一本書，品味宋人的文化雅趣，追尋宋人的蹤跡，探訪南宋高度繁榮的文化特質。

皇城腳下? 有街有書

從中山路一路往南，就到了這臨安城曾經的中軸線——南宋御街。南宋御街對南宋皇朝和南宋百姓來說都非常重要，它兩旁集中了數萬家商鋪，臨安城一半的百姓都住在附近。

南宋御街的盛況，從很多古籍里都能一睹更為詳實的風采：

比如《西湖游覽志》記載，南宋皇朝時御街是控制全城的主軸線。古時的南宋御街南起皇宮北邊的和寧門外，向北經朝天門（今鼓樓）略向西側，北經眾安橋、貫橋，至新莊橋，有長10里之說，又名“十里天街”。它是南宋王皇城達官貴人出行的必經之路，也是一年之中皇帝于“孟春、孟夏、孟秋、孟冬”四孟之際到景靈宮（現今武林路西側）祭祀時的專用道路。

在當時，南宋御街還是南宋時期的政治中心，集聚了朝廷中樞機關，具有很高的政治地位。所以御街的管理與修繕不比一般道路，是由朝廷命令、臨安知府親自主持的大政。《咸淳臨安志》所記載的有關御街的維修，是南宋規模最大的一次修葺，也是最后一次。因為再過八年，元軍攻下臨安，南宋朝廷就投降了。

南宋滅亡后，又經過數百年的風雨侵蝕，御街逐漸從人們的視野中隱去了，直到2009年重新修復后才開街。重修后的御街長3.7公里，位于杭州主城區，以中山路為主線，南起鼓樓，北接西湖大道。游客紛至沓來，都想走一走那曾經的御道。游覽路線一般是從北往南，沿著南宋御街走到盡頭，再去一去那承載著厚重杭州城市歷史記憶的建筑——鼓樓。出了鼓樓，就又回到了現代的車水馬龍。

從御街盡頭到鼓樓，即游覽御街景區的“最后一公里”，是濃縮了南宋文化精華的鼓樓廣場。在這里，一家新開的書店靜靜地矗立著，名字也與南宋御街十分貼切，一側墻上低調地寫著方方正正的楷體字——“南宋書房”。外觀是青磚黑瓦與現代玻璃的結合，古色古香中糅合了現代感，頗有趣味卻不失雅致。而內里則不似外觀這般低調：有點小曲折的走廊，兩邊是水紋玻璃式的幕墻，不論晝夜，都能營造出一種光影迷離的效果;墻上還掛了多個介紹南宋人物及詩畫的電子屏，擺放的書和瓷器也均與南宋相關。再往里走，豁然開朗，階梯狀的臺階可供讀者、參觀者休憩看書，巨大的樓梯直通二樓書墻。柔和而溫暖的原木色，滿足了對書房的所有幻想。這樣就可以保證即使在人流量大的情況下，也能讓讀者有一人一座的空間，不至于太擠。

樓梯里內嵌LED屏幕，自二樓往下看，好似有奇效。沿著臺階站上二樓，從最高處看一樓正中間的一面最大屏和四面小豎屏，正在播放吳山景區、南宋皇城遺址和南宋御街的城市宣傳片。二樓有兩面書墻，一面近代出版物，一面古籍。長長的走廊通往長桌和雅座，旁邊擺放著一些文創。盡頭配有茶室，可以愜意地辦公。縱深感的設計，時空仿佛也在這里延伸了。小階梯和露臺，讓空間既有融合感又有分離感，讓讀者在公共空間也能有體驗到“獨處”的美妙。

臨安書坊? 一脈相承

杭州自古以來就是書坊林立、書香濃郁的城市。在北宋時已有書坊，南渡后私人書鋪更多，稱為經鋪、經坊或稱經籍鋪、經書鋪、書籍鋪，可考的有近20家。南宋書房選擇在鼓樓邊上傳承一脈書香，這或許是一種巧合，也或許更像是一種注定。因為從眾安橋到鼓樓的這段御街里程，恰恰就是南宋時臨安城里書坊最為集中的地帶，說是“書市”也不為過。

臨安書坊不僅鬻書販書，還兼顧刻書出版，其中最有名的當屬陳宅書籍鋪。陳宅書籍鋪第一代主人陳起，字宗之，號陳道人，曾舉鄉貢第一，故又稱陳解元。居睦親坊，因“奉母”而開肆賣書。所以陳宅書籍鋪主鋪開在睦親坊巷口，書籍銷量極好。另在臨安其他處還開有兩家分店，經營規模相當可觀。

陳起本質上是一個商人，但他曾經中過解元，史載他“能詩”，所以身上多少沾點文人氣質。在同行多半熱衷于做一些三教九流之書時，陳起卻對先賢詩集及金石畫冊青睞有加。不僅在朝野上交往頗多，陳起與民間詩人也結交甚廣，一時間陳宅書鋪可謂是“談笑有鴻儒，往來無白丁”。

除了品位高雅、挑書講究之外，陳宅書鋪能在中國古代出版發行史上有著舉足輕重的地位，離不開兩宋發展起來的高效精美的刻書技術。陳宅書籍鋪所刊書籍世稱“書棚本”，受到藏書家的極度珍視，至今仍是少數國家級博物館的鎮館之寶。宋書的刻印堪稱后世的模范，紙質細膩，裝幀精致，字跡清晰，用墨考究，對現代的書籍式樣的形成都有著很大的影響。

從北宋到南宋，經濟、文化、手工業以及商業的高度發展和空前繁榮，反映在書籍出版上的特點和優勢就是書多、紙好、技術高。

宋代出書數量之多，遠遠超過以往歷代。據《世界圖書》統計：我國從西漢直至五代，共出書兩萬三千多部，二十七萬多卷。而宋代出的書將近歷代出書總數的一半。不僅僅是數量大幅度增加，宋代圖書出版業的繁榮，還體現在書品類的增多。南宋的著作物遍及當時所有各個知識部門，除卻儒釋道典籍和詩集詞集，還有天文、地理、醫藥、農業、工業、民間文學以民間日用必需的書籍等。不僅當時的著作多付諸印刷，還有前代人的著作也陸續出版。

宋代的造紙業已經發展到了較高的水平。當時刻印所用的紙張，文理堅韌，細膩平滑，這對后續書籍的印刷，創造了有利條件。由于紙張精美，宋時常常作為貢品，又稱“貢紙”。宋代各地進獻貢紙的有8處，而唐代進獻的只有婺、衢兩處。這說明，宋代生產的紙張質好量多，是前代遠遠不能相提并論的。

雕版印刷術發明于隋末唐初，逐步普及于唐末，迅速發展于兩宋。北宋時雖發明了活字印刷術，但在當時并未受到重視。所以南宋的主要印刷技術仍然是雕版印刷，陳起所用也是如此，但刻書、印刷技術日趨純熟。在北宋時，杭州就是印刷中心，有“監本刊于杭者，殆居大半”之稱。至南宋時，雕版工人薈萃于此，刻印了經書、史書、子書、醫書、算術以及文集等。浙本字體方正，刀法圓潤，雕版技術已經達到相當高的水平。

南宋出版業的繁榮，側面印證了南宋文化思想的鼎盛，被中外學者稱為“東方的文藝復興”“中國歷史上的第二次百家爭鳴”。

深入挖掘? 開拓創新

2020年9月，鼓樓旁的清河坊街區開放，使得人們對南宋歷史文化的發掘再度升溫。和改造后的清河坊街區一同亮相的南宋書房，依托得天獨厚的地理優勢，迅速成為了“網紅打卡地”，且熱度居高不下。

杭州從來不缺書店，南宋書房卻能在眾多書店里脫穎而出。誠然，它一定程度上占據了“天時地利”的優勢，但更為引人矚目的其實是“宋韻文化×當代審美”這個主題。正如南宋書房主理人趙群偉在采訪中所說的，“主題書房其實在杭州并不多見，到目前為止僅此一家”。

趙群偉介紹，“南宋書房還是一家6.0復合業態主題書店”，集宋韻文化展示、宋韻主題講座、宋韻文創研發、宋韻主題出版、宋韻主題郵局、新形態傳播六種功能于一身。

作為集中展示宋韻文化的公共平臺，南宋書房圖書品類涵蓋宋韻文化的各個方面，還收藏了大量宋韻文化普及類讀本及部分歷代古籍影印本。據介紹，南宋書房的藏書超過兩萬冊，其中約三分之一的圖書與宋韻文化相關。通過對宋韻文化的展示及講座展開對宋韻文化的深入挖掘，再通過文創、立體書、郵票等多元的方式去開拓創新、去普及，將文化用短視頻、直播等融媒體形式“走出去”，這就是南宋書房創立的要義。

南宋書房還以“宋韻+亞運”的雙韻（運）概念為契機，重點開發一批疊加了雙元素的文創產品。目前正在進行中的有宋代百子圖系列文創，極具知識性、互動性和趣味性，主要產品類型包含：盲盒、人形玩偶、郵票、明信片、其他形態等。另外，南宋書房即將開通線上銷售平臺，線上、線下同步發售各類具有宋韻屬性的圖書、文創及活動產品。

人來人往，從史料中獲得的對當年南宋御街的想象再到眼前真實感受的場景，歲月斑駁了外墻，熱鬧卻不減當年。有些東西一直在變，窗外的滄海早已換了桑田;有些東西萬年不變，一城一水，一書一人。

Books， Bookstores and

the Southern Song Imperial Street

By Lin Weiran? Wu Yang

Walk along the Zhongshan Road all the way to the south end， and you will reach the Southern Song Imperial Street， once the center of Linan， the capital city of the Southern Song dynasty （1127-1279） and present-day Hangzhou. The importance of the Imperial Street could not be overstated for both the Southern Song court and the common people at that time， for tens of thousands of shops were located around it， and half of the citys population lived nearby.

Indeed， in Xihu Youlan Zhi， or Gazetteer for Sightseeing around the West Lake， the Imperial Street was regarded as the principal axis that could effectively be employed to control the whole city. Starting from Hening Gate of the Imperial Palace to the south， through the Chaotian Gate （currently known as Gulou， or the Drum Tower）， via the Zhongan Bridge and the Guanqiao Bridge， before coming to an end at the Xinzhuang Bridge to the north， the Imperial Street stretched for some ten li （or five kilometers）， hence its sobriquet Shili Tianjie， or Ten-li Heavenly Street. It was the path that the Southern Song dignitaries must tread on whenever they needed to get around. The street also served as a special imperial passageway when the emperor performed worshipping rituals during the first month of each lunar season， i.e. the first， fourth， seventh and tenth lunar month.

The Imperial Street was the indisputable political center of the Southern Song dynasty， where vital government ministries and organs were concentrated. With such an elevated political status， the street and its management fell under the direct purview of the governor of Linan， the capital city. The Annals of Linan during the Reign of Xianchun recorded the largest renovation ever done for the street in the Southern Song period， which， unfortunately， was also the last， for the dynasty would crumble eight years later.

After the collapse of the Southern Song， the Imperial Street gradually fall into oblivion in the next few hundred years. Until 2009， when it was reopened after extensive reconstruction and repairs. The new Imperial Street， rebuilt along a significant part of the Zhongshan Road， is about 3.7 kilometers long， starting from the Drum Tower in the south and ending at the intersection with the West Lake Avenue.

Since its reopening， tourists from home and abroad have flocked to the street to have a taste of its glorious past， walking from the north to the south before arriving at the Drum Tower， in which much of the citys history has been stored. Outside， history phases into the present， cars and flyovers readily bringing visitors back to reality.

Adjoining the Drum Tower lies a small piece of square， which is aptly named the Drum Tower Square. At one side of the square is a large bookstore， and on its front walls， written in Kai Shu or standard Chinese script， are four characters “Nan”， “Song”， “Shu”， “Fang” （Southern Song Study Room）. The name of the bookstore indeed befits what the Imperial Street stands for， as does its exterior， a mixture of blue tiles and glass.

When people walk inside， their attention would only be caught： a short but zigzagging corridor， both sides covered with glass in water ripple patterns， as if forming a curtain， and creating the blurred effect of light and shadow day and night; electronic screens on the walls introducing figures， poems and paintings from the Southern Song dynasty， as well as books and porcelain products related to the period. Further inside， the space suddenly opens up. A flight of broad and giant staircases double as “seats” for readers and visitors — on the sides of each staircase are also embedded LED screens， showing video clips on the Southern Song. The flight leads straight to a book wall on the second floor and the gentle and warm color of wood makes it look like a personal study room.

Since opening in September 2020 along with the neighboring Qinghefang Ancient Street， Nansong Shufang has fast become one of the favorite places for readers and tourists even as the bookstore continues to explore new ways of showcasing the splendor the Song culture.

Bookstores have been a major feature of Hangzhou since times of old， and it was no exception when it came to the Song dynasty （960-1279）. While a number of bookshops were already in operation during the Northern Song （960-1127）， records show Linan boasted nearly 20 private bookshops in the Southern Song， most of which， coincidentally or otherwise， concentrated near the Drum Tower. Unlike their modern counterparts， these bookshops not only sold books but also printed and published books， and some of the surviving copies that are collected at a few national-level museums are so valuable that they are seen as the museums “most precious treasures”. With their superior papers， elegant bindings， clear handwriting and exquisite inks， Song books served as the model for later generations and had a great influence on the style of modern books. Buttressed by unprecedented development in economy， culture， handicraft industry and commerce， publishing in the Song boomed.

For one thing， the number of books published in the Song dynasty far outstripped previous dynasties. According to World Books， a trade magazine in China， while its predecessors in the prior 1，000 to 1，100 years published more than 23，000 books in 270，000 volumes， Song alone produced half of number. For another， not only the number of books， the categories also increased considerably. The works of the Southern Song dynasty covered all the knowledge areas of the time： from the traditional Confucianism， Buddhism and Taoism and poetry， to astronomy， geography， medicine， agriculture， industry， folk literature and even daily necessities of the common people. As well as contemporary books， works of previous generations were printed， too.

The prosperity of the publishing industry in the Southern Song was greatly aided by its highly developed paper-making industry and highly advanced printing technology. It also testifies to the flourishing of ideas and thought in the era， which has been rightly called “the renaissance in the orient” and the “second Hundred Schools of Thought in Chinese history”.