臺繡：與古為新 獨樹一幟

劉凡力 張涵涵

臺繡為臺州刺繡的簡稱，又名“雕平繡”“海門雕繡”，是中國民間刺繡的一種獨創形式，見證了早期中西文化的交融。20世紀初（1906年），法國仁愛會來海門（今臺州）天主教堂傳教，向教堂的女教徒和孤兒傳授西方的“雕鏤”和“抽紗”技藝，俗稱“天主堂花”，經與臺州傳統手工刺繡融合發展，逐漸形成了獨具地域文化特色的“海門雕繡（臺州刺繡）”。鼎盛時期，以臺繡為基礎的貿易出口產值達到8億元，繡花人員達13萬人，產品遠銷60多個國家和地區。臺繡更是以獨有的“雕平繡”風格稱譽海外，國際上譽為“東方瑰寶”。

臺繡第三代傳承人林霞（中國工藝美術大師、中國刺繡藝術大師、浙江省萬人計劃“傳統工藝領軍人才”，臺繡服飾董事長兼藝術設計總監），出生在臺繡的發源地，從小在外婆的花繃前長大。她自幼酷愛美術，兒童時期隨從水彩畫家哈定先生學習繪畫。16歲時，她憑著優秀的繪畫功底，考入當時規模最大的臺州繡衣廠，成為一名繡衣設計師，從此，便與臺繡結下了不解之緣。

林霞是傳統臺繡的傳承人，更是當代臺繡的開創者。四十余年深耕不輟，與臺繡深入對話、共同成長，不斷地打破又重新建立……她在傳統抽、拉、雕技藝的基礎上，突破了刺繡原本依附于畫面的屬性，以更加通透、立體浮雕的技法和概念的藝術設計，衍生出“纖藝繡”，形成屬于臺繡自己的語言以及鮮明的風格特點。她創作的《網絡天下》《原 ·? 衍生》《降生》《萬物生》《萬物靈》《紫椹》等精品佳作，榮獲國際、國家級金獎50余項，多件作品被國際級博物館收藏。此外，她通過創意設計，將臺繡的文化、技藝和藝術元素進行萃取轉化，形成多樣化的實用產品。其作品賦予臺繡更當代的表達，與時代融合更趨緊密。

Taizhou Embroidery： Integrating Past and Present

By Liu Fanli? Zhang Hanhan

Taizhou Embroidery， or simply Taixiu in Chinese， is a folk embroidery that has witnessed the early integration of Chinese and Western cultures. In 1906， when a group of French Catholic missionaries went to Haimen （present-day Taizhou）， they passed on Western embroidery techniques， such as cutwork and drawnwork， to nuns and orphans in the local church. That’s also why Taizhou Embroidery is also known as “Cutwork Embroidery” or “Haimen Embroidery”. Overtime， these techniques were incorporated into traditional Chinese embroidery and a unique style of embroidery was born. At its peak， Taixiu and Taixiu-related products worth 800 million yuan were exported to over 60 countries and regions， and as many as 130，000 embroiderers were employed in the industry. For its unique style， Taixiu is known as the “oriental treasure” on the international stage.

Born in Taizhou， Lin Xia， a third-generation inheritor of the Taixiu craft and founder of TAISILK， started to learn painting at a very young age. When she was 16， Lin passed the examination and became a designer in the biggest embroidery garment factory in Taizhou. Since then， her Taixiu career has taken off.

Indeed， Lin is both an inheritor of traditional Taixiu and a pioneer of modern Taixiu. In over four decades， Lin has gone beyond traditions， injected new art designs and techniques， and created her distinctive style. Her works， including Web World and Birth， won more than 50 international and national awards， and many have been collected by international museums. Moreover， through creative designs， Lin has transformed elements of the Taixiu culture， craft and arts into a diverse selection of products， imbuing Taixiu with a contemporary expression and bringing it to modern life.