Macao's star of spice

A restaurant focusing on fiery Hunan and Sichuan fare has won recognition from Michelin and diners.

Most of the 90 restaurants awarded by the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macao 2020 serve Cantonese fare (食物).The Michelin Guide inspectors recommend such Sichuan dishes as sauteed chicken (炒雞) with peanuts and chilies,and Hunan-style favorites like steamed carp head (清蒸鯉魚頭) with chilies and hand-pulled noodles.Feng Wei Ju's executive chef, Macao native Chan Chak-keong, started his culinary(烹飪的) explorations over 30 years ago, starting with Cantonese cuisine.He began learning about Sichuan fare over a decade ago, when it was difficult to find authentic offerings in Macao.

The chef spent two years traveling through such mainland provinces as Hunan, Guangdong and Heilongjiang to learn about their respective cuisines before opening his restaurant in 2014.He spent eight days sampling everything from street food to fine dining in Sichuan's provincial capital, Chengdu.He also visited rural destinations in the province to better understand the ingredients and seasonings used in the countryside.“The Sichuan food I'd eaten in Macao was quite different from what I had in Chengdu.Macao attracts people from around the world.So,its food is mixed.I want to bring Sichuan flavors to my hometown.I not only bring my chefs to Chengdu but also invite Sichuan chefs to visit our restaurant in Macao, ” he said.

Chan believes the types of spiciness that defines Hunan's and Sichuan's cuisines are quite different.“Hunan cuisine will make you sweat immediately.Sichuan food is more about numbness,” he explains.He enjoys visiting local markets to find the most-seasonal fresh ingredients.Chan took his team to Beijing from Jan.8 to 11,bringing diners in the capital his signature dishes, focusing on Sichuan flavors.

Chan believes contemporary chefs are like scientists since they constantly experiment with new dishes and plating.“I try to change my menu a little every three months to update it with new ideas,” he said.“I also add seasonal dishes every month.For example, we serve lamb in winter.” Chan believes the reason why Feng Wei Ju gained the additional Michelin star in 2017 is that he continues to develop new dishes.“If you stay the same, you get the same number of stars.The second star is a reward for improvement,” he said.

He aspires to win three stars in the future.But Chan believes a chef's most important task is to present the best food to diners.

Critical Thinking

What contributes to Chan's success?