白馬湖，從漁村到創意城

日青

在杭州，以前白馬湖是打漁人的天下，如今白馬湖是動漫人的樂園、文創者的天堂。

我們當地人一直把杭州的白馬湖叫“白茫湖”。只要一說起白茫湖，我的腦海里就會呈現出白茫茫的一片湖面，湖邊偶爾點綴著幾間草舍，潛意識里覺得白馬湖很荒涼。

直到有親戚嫁到了那里，我才知道，原來白馬湖就是一個普通的農村，既不白茫茫也不荒涼，房子也不是草舍，同樣都是二三層磚瓦房，住在那里的農戶家家有條小漁船，個個都會打漁摸螺螄，日子過得很不錯。

一

第一年走親戚的路線就是沿著一條河，一直往東走，親戚家的房子就在河邊一棵大樹下。河很寬，我感覺人一落水就會往下沉還撈不上來，河邊人煙稀少，長滿了各式各樣的植物，當然還有蘆葦迎風飄蕩，如果是傍晚往回走，迎著夕陽，感覺像是走在電影畫面里。所以白馬湖成為景區，我一點也不奇怪，因為本來就很美，有一種野趣美。

白馬湖的名字其實還有另外的由來，因為它和湘湖隔座山，那座山就是越王城山。當越王勾踐在山上臥薪嘗膽的時候，山腳下就成了他的跑馬場，他在這里排兵布陣，活生生把一塊地刨成了湖，所以叫排馬湖。還有說法是，白馬湖和錢塘江有關，是錢塘江潟湖，也是錢塘江的泄洪區，如今的水系也和錢塘江相通。看來錢塘江真是江浙大地的母親河啊，哪兒都有它！到現代，更貼切的說法為，白馬湖是西興磚瓦廠和長河磚瓦廠的前身。

白馬湖有條南北向的馬路叫長江路，但和長江無關，因為貫通長河古鎮和錢塘江，才叫長江路。此路由北往南一路經過長河老街、冠山、動漫廣場、海山公園、創意城、華數園區、塘子堰、三郎戴、井山塢。長江路的盡頭是湘湖越王路，右邊是井山塢。井山塢很有來頭，井山塢的湖面是原來長河磚瓦廠挖泥形成的，水很深，湖中心的土堆據說是秦始皇的一個妃子隨皇帝出巡，忽染疾病，死后埋葬于此。改造后的井山塢非常漂亮，有湖，有梯田，有柵欄，別有風味。長江路的左邊是湘湖景區的竹塢探幽（想看的可以點湘湖），對岸就是跨湖橋博物館，此路很神奇地把蕭山和濱江連在一起了。

二

白馬湖分為一期、二期、三期。一期相對比較粗糙，直來直去，原生態，石板鋪路，樟樹做綠化樹，把一些河道和水塘疏浚成湖面，改造成公園，其中保留著一幢白墻黑瓦的老房子，現在好像是朱德庸的工作室;二期略有提升，建了動漫廣場，動漫博物館，海山公園，農居SOHO;三期更有主題，月季園，井山塢農耕文化園，網絡作家村。單論景色和規模，白馬湖比湘湖要遜色許多，畢竟讓白馬湖聲名鵲起的不是它的美景，而是動感十足、魅力無限的動漫節和文博會。動漫節的火爆離不開中南卡通，文博會的火爆離不開白馬湖農居SOHO，那一幢幢SOHO農居“隱居”著一個個知名文藝工作者，一推門進去就是一屋子寶藏。

記不清白馬湖創意城是哪一年成立的，也記不清白馬湖建國飯店是哪一年開業的，到底是先有動漫節，還是先有白馬湖動漫廣場，到底是先有農居SOHO，還是先有文博會，反正那一個區塊特別火爆。每年的5月和10月，COSPLAY，文玩古董，依次登場，成為杭州人過節的一種方式。最后建成的中國網絡作家村“最葵園”，更是把知名的網絡作家請進來，成為白馬湖網絡作家村的村民，一幢幢農民房子，搖身一變，成為作家的工作室。這其實挺符合濱江的風格，也許濱江不擅長造景，但搞產業無疑是得心應手、手到擒來，能把想做的產業做得風生水起，這也是國際濱的本事。有一年開動漫節，把濱盛路與火炬大道口東面的這塊空地開辟成停車場，有專門的巴士把人接駁到動漫廣場，如今這個停車場建了寶龍城。

于我而言，對白馬湖印象最深的是柴家塢和孔家里，因為柴家塢是我的外婆家，孔家里是我父親的外婆家，如今這兩個地方都是白馬湖農居SOHO的重點區塊。

在我的印象中，柴家塢始終是一個安靜的小山村，躲在冠山的懷抱里，背靠冠山寺，所有的房子都依山而建，仿佛與世隔絕，在外面絕對看不到里面還有村莊。村子中間有一處泉眼掩映在灌木從中，每天早上，泉水清清，家家戶戶汲水而飲。冬夜下雪，萬籟俱靜，只聞得山上竹子被雪壓斷的聲音，早上起來，白茫茫的一片，安靜得掉根針都能聽到。小山村住戶不多，每次去外婆家，挨家挨戶走過，都要打個招呼，仿佛全村都是親戚，感覺特別的親切和溫暖。柴家塢是“全球生態500佳”，它的地理位置決定了這個稱號是名至實歸。

孔家里和柴家塢是完全不同的類型。如果說柴家塢是小門小院，那孔家里無疑是大戶人家，到處都是高高的馬頭墻，氣派的大墻門，長長的連廊，古橋，河道，氣宇非凡。下雨天可以走很多戶人家而不濕鞋，因為所有的房子都連在一起，都有連廊到戶，房子里還有精美的磚雕，石頭窗戶，大院連小院，大天井里有小天井，當年肯定是富甲一方。一條南北向的小河穿村而過，河里有小船四通八達，我們常常坐在石板橋上談古論今，放眼望去，小河彎彎繞繞，穿過海山橋、王汛橋，我也不知它最終流向何方。河兩邊有埠頭，可洗衣，可上下船，右邊有一條石板路沿河而走，簡直就是現在江南古鎮的模樣。

此情此景，都是美好的過往。以前白馬湖是打漁人的天下，如今白馬湖是動漫人的樂園、文創者的天堂，農民住進了分配的冠山小區和自購的高樓，留下足夠的空間給那些文人墨客在各具特色的小院里冥思著、創作著，只有那個坐在橋頭暢想明天的女孩此刻在寫著文章。這樣的變化是讓人欣喜而快樂的。就讓我們記住柴家塢的山泉水和孔家里的石板橋吧。

White Horse Lake： From Fishing Villages to Creative Powerhouse

By Ri Qing

When I was young I was under the impression that the White Horse Lake was a remote and desolate world shrouded in a white mist. The impression stayed with me for a long time until a relative of our family married someone living in a village by the lake and I got to know more about the lake zone. I visited my relative there. It turned out that the villages around the lake were just like other rural villages in the region. There were two-story or three-story houses and people there fished frequently in the lake to put fish and snail on the kitchen table.

The first time I went to visit my relative in a village by the lake， I followed a path eastward along a river. The relative and her husband lived in a riverside house flanked closely by a giant tree. The river was so wide that I thought if one fell into the river it would not be easy to get out. The river banks were sparsely populated but the trees were thick and reeds moved in wind. I am not surprised at all that White Horse Lake is now a tourist attraction. The lake is part of a larger region of historical interests. For example， near the lake is Kuahuqiao， an archaeological site where an 8，000-year-old canoe was unearthed in 2002. Further on is Xianghu Lake， another scenic spot.

The White Horse Lake is no more a zone of idyllic beauty and quietness. It has seen development in three phases. The first development project was relatively simple and straightforward. The original ecology was preserved. The roads were paved with flagstones， camphor trees were planted as landscape trees， some streams and ponds were dredged and became part of the lake， many old houses were demolished to make room for lakeside parks. Only one old house， refurbished， still stands today， serving as a studio for a cartoon master from Taiwan. In the second development project， the 120-hectare lake saw the appearance of more modern-looking structures such as Cartoon & Animation Plaza and Cartoon & Animation Museum， Rural Residence SOHO， and Haishan Park. The third development project saw more themed structures such as a center for internet novelists.

Though Xianghu Lake is better known for its scenic beauty， the White Horse Lake attracts larger crowds because of the annual China International Cartoon & Animation Festival in April and May since 2005 and Hangzhou Cultural Expo in October.

For me， two villages around the lake are my favorite： Chaijiawu is where my maternal grandmother lives and Kongjiali is where my fathers grandmother once lived. In my memory， Chaijiawu is a quiet mountain hamlet. All the houses are perched on the slope. Beside the village is Guanshan Temple. The village is blocked by the hills. I remember there was a spring where villagers fetched drinking water in the morning. When it snowed， the world became soundless. All things were white. Silence reigned. The hamlet didnt have a large population. The second day after my arrival， I would visit all the houses in the small village and say hello to all the neighbors from house to house. The whole village was like a family. The village is one of the Global 500 Roll of Honor for Environmental Achievement by the United Nations Environment Program. The honor speaks most fluently for Chaijiawu.

If Chaijiawu can be compared to a hermit living in solitude， then Kongjiali is a village of grace and grandeur. The village is characterized by big courtyard houses connected with each other with covered corridors， ancient bridges and rivers. All these houses are connected and people can walk from one courtyard to another in a rainy day without getting their shoes wet. And these houses present brick sculptures and stone windows. There must have been a time when some villagers were very rich.

The lake is no longer what it was so many years ago. Today， it is the paradise for entrepreneurs， internet novelists， and people working in the creative and cultural industry. The lake zone has long been vacated by original rural residents who have already moved into other communities.