袁長渭



這里有美麗的湖埠十景,有旖旎的湖光山色,還盛產西湖莼菜和九曲紅梅。而湖埠里流傳的一些舊事,也為此處增添了一抹神秘色彩。
4月的錢塘泗鄉,油菜花遍地開放。行走在開滿油菜花的田埂上,田邊的水面恰到好處地將油菜花、湖水與湖邊的群山組成一幅絕美的圖畫。遠處的云泉山和風水洞最為顯眼,近處的曇山成了點綴,花山和公館山更是雙峰插云,巍然聳立。
泗鄉位于杭州市西湖區之江地區,是古時定山南鄉、定山北鄉、長壽鄉和安吉鄉的合稱,范圍大致與杭州轉塘街道()雙浦鎮()相一致,附近有中國美術學院、浙江音樂學院、西湖高等研究院等高等院校。
在古老的農耕社會,錢塘江邊的泗鄉作為錢塘縣的最重要組成部分,是浙江通往福建、江西等省的水陸交通要道,也是浙江省上八府和下三府的最主要連接點。
位于錢塘泗鄉的銅鑒湖邊,是杭州通往富陽的必經之地,秦始皇、白居易、蘇東坡、范仲淹、朱熹、乾隆、董邦達等歷史名人,在湖埠里都留下過足跡或詩刻。這里有美麗的湖埠十景,有旖旎的湖光山色,有風水洞和靈山幻境景區,還名產西湖莼菜和九曲紅梅。
除了優美的風景,在湖埠里流傳的一些舊聞也為此處增添了一抹神秘色彩。
進士馮來聘
明朝末年,錢塘泗鄉有四大才子——
轉塘午山村的葛寅亮是鄉試解元,后來中了進士,人稱“葛湖南”(),他家和大諸橋、千金閘()的建造有關系。
轉塘雙流村的陳之煌中了進士做了官后,籌集資金修建了雙流村的前溪和后溪,解決了村里發大水的難題,也就是現在鳳凰創意園里的溪流和中國美院里象山南渠。浮山鄭尚友也中了進士,出任明朝福建長樂縣最后一任知縣,也做了清朝第一任長樂縣知縣,并且兩次被康熙皇帝定為“天下第一清官”,與大名鼎鼎的于成龍同時入清官名錄,這就是浮山頭“鄭做官”的來歷。
湖埠里的馮來聘也在同時期中了進士,鄉試時和葛寅亮同一榜。50多年前,馮來聘進士府第的臺門還在,現在已經不見了蹤影。
馮來聘沒有中舉前,曾經砍過柴,翻過陸家嶺到凌家橋街上去賣柴。他在陸家嶺涼亭休息時發誓說,將來若有出頭之日,定要削平陸家嶺,讓賣柴人如履平地。等到馮來聘中了進士做了山東省的御史后,再回到銅鑒湖畔湖埠里,小時候的玩伴戲謔地問他:“來聘,你說做了大官就削平陸家嶺,什么時候來削平啊?”馮來聘笑著回答說:“我坐著八抬大轎過陸家嶺就是平的呀!”原來,對坐在轎子上的大官馮來聘來說,陸家嶺已經是平地了。
這條山路筆者也曾走過多次,直到20多年前這條山路才被廢棄。
馮來聘沒有削山,但出資在湖埠溪上建了一座橋,叫做“無私橋”,希望自己的子孫后代能有公德心,無私奉獻鄉里,造福桑梓。現在,無私橋依然屹立在馮家湖埠溪上,古老的橋板被瀝青蓋住了,“無私橋”三個字還在,是我同學馮劍威的父親馮柿豪叔叔題寫的。
馮來聘還曾經發過一個誓:升一級,造一個涼亭。而且他確實做到了。從湖埠里馮家到楊村有三個涼亭,都是馮來聘出資建造的。50多年前,三個涼亭都還在,現在只剩下一個了,希望能長久。
朱熹和曇山
湖埠村的南面有一座山,叫曇山。曇山在南宋時非常有名,引得理學祖師爺朱熹來了3次,盤桓多日,并且留下了在杭州的唯一石刻。南宋紹熙五年,朱熹游湖埠曇山,留題一詩于棋坪石南側。詩云“頹然見茲山,一一見天作。信手銘巖墻,所愿君勿鑿。”同年十月,朱喜重游曇山,摩崖正書于仙人洞側,“紹熙甲寅閏十月癸未,朱仲晦()南歸,重游鄭君次山園亭。”
曇山上有一石洞,名字叫清虛洞,也叫金牛洞,因為傳說從前的銅鑒湖叫金牛湖,金牛逃到了洞里,從此沒有出來過,洞里有時還會發出“哞哞”的金牛叫聲。
清虛洞還被叫作仙人洞,也有一個傳說。一位仁橋村()的小伙子上曇山砍柴,到了清虛洞里看到兩位老者在對弈,小伙子就把斧頭立在地上,屁股坐在斧頭柄上看他們下棋。沒一會兒,他肚子餓了,兩位下棋的老者拿了石桌上的桃子給小伙子吃。等到小伙子看完這局棋站起來時,斧頭上的木柄已經腐爛了。原來,小伙子坐在泥地上很長時間了,自己卻沒有察覺到。他回到仁橋村,發現距離他生活的那個年代已經過去了幾百年。他的家譜上還能查到他的名字,也記載了他打柴失蹤的事情。所謂“仙界一日,人間千年”。原來,吃了仙桃,砍柴小伙也成了神仙。仙人洞里仙人下棋的那個石板棋盤至今還在,石板上依稀還能看到棋盤的模樣。當然,這都是后人為了豐滿這個傳說而做的美好想象。
白居易、蘇東坡和湖埠風水洞
湖埠里有一著名的風景點就是風水洞,由風洞和水洞組成,直到現在水洞里還能撐船。
風水洞洞外有一寺廟叫慈嚴寺,或者叫恩德寺,所以風水洞也叫慈嚴洞和恩德洞。白居易做杭州刺史時,與慈嚴寺主持慧日禪師交好,常來湖埠里看望慧日禪師,并且留下了許多詩作,比如“云水埋藏恩德洞,簪裾束縛使君身。暫來不宿歸州去,應被山呼作俗人”。
到了北宋末年,蘇東坡兩次出仕杭州,也經常來湖埠里視察工作和游玩。蘇東坡游風水洞時留下的著名詩句,至今還刻寫在風水洞口——
往富陽新城李節推先行三日留風水洞見待
春山磔磔鳴春禽,此間不可無我吟。
路長漫漫傍江浦,此間不可無君語。
金魚池邊不見君,追君直過定山村。
路人皆言君未遠,騎馬少年清且婉。
風巖水穴舊聞名,只隔山溪夜不行。
溪橋曉溜浮梅萼,知君系馬巖花落。
出城三日尚逶遲,妻孥怪罵歸何時。
世上小兒夸疾走,如君相待今安有。
詩里的定山村就是轉塘凌家橋村,“風巖水穴”指的就是風水洞,“山溪”就是湖埠溪,也就是銅鑒湖,隔湖就是風水洞。
蘇東坡為了勸湖埠里人養鵝致富,還寫下了《風水洞二禽》:“林外一聲青竹筍,坐間半醉白頭翁。春山最好不歸去,慚愧春禽解勸儂。”
筆者也經常去銅鑒湖畔湖埠里游玩,有感而發,寫了一首打油詩:“姚塢書聲朗,父子倆宰相。陸家嶺依舊,無私淵源長。風洞涼風爽,水洞流水暢。登山觀滄海,紫薇現東方。莼思歸故里,曇山書聲揚。山翠石亦奇,銅鑒碧波漾。恩德鐘聲響,山下屯鹽場。來客知蘇白,崖刻壁上蒼。”
Anecdotes of Hubuli
By Yuan Changwei
Sixiang was an integral part of the Qiantang prefecture (present-day Zhijiang district of Hangzhou) in the agrarian age, and is a transportation hub connecting Hangzhou with Fujian and Jiangxi provinces. Seated near the Tongjian Lake in Sixiang, Hubuli is the conduit linking downtown Hangzhou with Fuyang, and is a breathing time-capsule of history and culture. Intriguing legends and tales about emperors and many cultural notables, together with the “Top 10 Attractions of Hubuli” and seasonal treats from the West Lake and the tea fields, all contribute to the captivating charm and mystery of Hubuli.
In the late years of Ming dynasty (1368-1644), Sixiang rose to fame for producing four “Jinshi” (successful candidates in the imperial examinations of feudal China): Ge Yinliang, Chen Zhihuang, Zheng Shangyou, and Feng Laipin. The legacy of Chen Zhihuang, from Shuangliu Village, can be seen by people today at the Xiangshan Campus of China Academy of Fine Arts.
Before he made his name, Feng Laipin was a woodcutter making a living by selling firewood. One day when he was taking a rest on his way to the marketplace in Lingjiaqiao, he vowed to turn the rugged mountain footpath he had to take so painstakingly every day into a flat one. Years later, Fengs childhood friend jokingly challenged him: “Now that you have gone up in the world, did you forget what you promised?” “Now I am on a sedan chair; and for me it is not a rugged journey anymore,” said Feng.
A bridge called “Unselfish Bridge” on the Hubu River was built by Feng Laipin to remind later generations of the importance of having a caring heart for the other people. He also kept his promise of building a pavilion each time he got a promotion. One of the three pavilions he ordered to be built can still be seen in Hubuli.
Tanshan Hill, south of Hubu Village, drew Zhu Xi (1130-1200), a great Song-dynasty synthesist of philosophy of principle, three times. The result of one of the scholars visits is the only stone inscription the master philosopher left in Hangzhou.
A stone cavern called Qingxu also adds to the mystery of the hill. Legend has it that the mooing sound the locals claim to have heard in the cave is because a bull was once here. The cave is also called “Cave of Immortals”. The locals believe in a story about a young man who went into the depths of the hill to chop firewood and chanced upon two old man playing chess in the cave. He put the axe away and watched the game with great interest until the game was over, without realizing how long he had been sitting there. He went back home, and found hundreds of years had elapsed. The only thing he remembered was a peach he ate when watching the game. The story about immortals may sound cliché, but the stone checkerboard is still recognizable in the cave.
One of the top attractions of Hubuli is the Wind and Water Cave. As the name suggests, there is water running through it. Outside the cave there is a temple called Ciyan, although the locals also call it Ende Temple. During his term of serving as Hangzhou governor, Bai Juyi (772-846), Chinese poet of the Tang dynasty was a regular visitor at the temple and made friends with the abbot, Master Huiri. The twos interaction and friendship was written into a host of poems by Bai Juyi.
Hubuli was also a favored business and leisure destination of Su Dongpo (1037-1101), the great Northern Song poet and scholar, during his two tenures in Hangzhou. One of the mans poems can be seen at the entrance of the Wind and Water Cave, suggesting that he spent some happy, relaxed time there.
The Dingshan Village he mentioned in the poem is the present-day Lingjiaqiao Village in Zhuantang, Hangzhou. Su Dongpo also taught the Hubuli people how to make a better life by raising geese. Instead of writing a detailed document, of course, he wrote a poem to communicate with the villagers.