一絲一線繡出傳承之美

徐繼宏

一針一線，一帛一裳，手繡是千年傳承的中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)文化，守護(hù)的是老祖宗的手藝和匠心。為了更好地將手繡技藝傳承，王玉平先后赴蘇州學(xué)蘇繡，到貴州找苗繡，到廣州訪盤金繡，到東北尋滿繡……

眼前的王玉平，一襲典雅精致的繡服，把整個(gè)人裝扮得賞心悅目。

“穿上手繡的服飾，我是不是一點(diǎn)都不像60歲的女人，既顯年輕，又賦活力？”王玉平快人快語(yǔ)。她說(shuō)，她的夢(mèng)想是能夠?yàn)閭鞒兄腥A民族的手繡文化做點(diǎn)事，讓手繡女紅代代相傳。

童年種下一個(gè)手繡夢(mèng)

刺繡，俗稱“繡花”，分機(jī)繡與手繡，在已加工好的織物上，以針引線，通過(guò)運(yùn)針將繡線組織成各種圖案和色彩的一種技藝。

“手繡是一門藝術(shù)，更是一種文化。”王玉平從小生活在浙東南沿海小城，在她的記憶中，最常做的事情就是依偎在外婆身邊，幫外婆穿針搓線，看外婆捻著針的手指揚(yáng)起又落下，把路邊的花鳥和山澗的水流繡進(jìn)絲綢錦緞中。外婆還經(jīng)常帶著她走街穿巷，跟深諳刺繡技巧的老繡娘學(xué)習(xí)討教。當(dāng)外婆的巧手將彩絲繡進(jìn)錦緞，一幅幅精美的繡品在她眼前誕生的時(shí)候，一場(chǎng)關(guān)于手繡的夢(mèng)在她幼小的心里扎根發(fā)芽。

傳統(tǒng)，就是永遠(yuǎn)的時(shí)尚。王玉平說(shuō)，童年時(shí)期她還有一個(gè)愛好就是跟著大人們走街串巷地看戲，特別是看到穿著戲服的演員在舞臺(tái)上演出，心里很是羨慕。繡龍刺鳳，花團(tuán)錦簇，艷麗多彩……在王玉平的腦海里，每個(gè)繡品都是快樂的化身和溫暖的代名詞。

青年和中年時(shí)期的王玉平忙于家庭和事業(yè)，如今，王玉平與丈夫一起經(jīng)營(yíng)的企業(yè)風(fēng)生水起，兩個(gè)孩子也已成家立業(yè)，有了自己的事業(yè)和前程。但對(duì)于家庭幸福、事業(yè)有成的王玉平來(lái)說(shuō)，手繡始終是她心中的愛、夢(mèng)想和追求。

辦學(xué)堂推廣傳統(tǒng)技藝

手繡技藝是中華傳統(tǒng)文化的代表之一，如何將歷史悠久的滿繡、蘇繡工藝與華服、旗袍的設(shè)計(jì)相結(jié)合，完美打造獨(dú)具美麗和國(guó)韻的東方繡衣文化，使傳統(tǒng)手藝與現(xiàn)代工藝結(jié)合，讓手繡作品呈現(xiàn)時(shí)代芳華？王玉平一直在思考、在探尋。

2014年的一次海南行，讓王玉平開始圓夢(mèng)。在當(dāng)?shù)氐囊患摇坝鲆娛掷C”服飾店，華麗的手繡服飾一下子撞開了她的心扉。“當(dāng)時(shí)太激動(dòng)了，多年的思考、探索和兒時(shí)的回憶一下子涌入腦海。當(dāng)時(shí)，花了十幾萬(wàn)元，把店里好看的服飾全部買了回來(lái)。回來(lái)以后，還激動(dòng)了好幾天。別人收藏古玩，我收藏手繡服飾。直到現(xiàn)在，看到這些藏品還愛不釋手。”從此，在王玉平的心里多了一個(gè)結(jié)，傳承手繡技藝的愿望與日俱增。

王玉平告訴筆者，在走訪手繡藝人的過(guò)程中，她發(fā)現(xiàn)現(xiàn)在的手工刺繡藝術(shù)家大都已年過(guò)半百，有些傳統(tǒng)工藝再不挖掘就可能面臨失傳。手繡是一項(xiàng)細(xì)活、慢活，需要耐得住寂寞，更需要有一份對(duì)傳統(tǒng)文化藝術(shù)的熱愛。王玉平?jīng)Q定創(chuàng)辦手繡學(xué)堂，搭建繡娘生存的市場(chǎng)平臺(tái)，讓手繡這門技藝得以傳承接續(xù)，讓從事手繡女紅技藝的藝術(shù)家有更大的生存空間。

近年來(lái)，王玉平跑了全國(guó)多個(gè)城市，結(jié)識(shí)了許多繡娘，令她更開心的是找到了揚(yáng)州手繡工藝大師朱軍成，遇見了杭州手繡工藝大師陳水琴，這更加堅(jiān)定了她要讓手繡女紅代代相傳的想法。

經(jīng)過(guò)努力，2018年初，在家人的支持下，王玉平以蘇繡和滿繡的傳統(tǒng)工藝為傳承對(duì)象，組建了屬于自己的繡娘團(tuán)隊(duì)、手繡服裝設(shè)計(jì)團(tuán)隊(duì)及走秀表演隊(duì)（爵繡十三釵），成立了杭州爵繡服裝文化有限公司，專賣繡娘的繡品，還可以為客戶專門定制手繡品。這既增加了繡娘的收入，又找到了手繡技藝的傳播、傳承載體，讓手繡女紅開始走進(jìn)公眾的視野。

把手繡推向國(guó)際舞臺(tái)

一針一線，一帛一裳，手繡是千年傳承的中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)文化，守護(hù)的是老祖宗的手藝和匠心。為了更好地將手繡技藝傳承，王玉平先后赴蘇州學(xué)蘇繡，到貴州找苗繡，到廣州訪盤金繡，到東北尋滿繡……在她的努力下，公司里90后繡娘開始發(fā)揮主力軍作用。

手工刺繡能繡出靈魂，繡出溫度。在王玉平眼里，繡藝華服是彰顯女人智慧、氣質(zhì)和優(yōu)雅形體的綜合體，它集手藝、審美、養(yǎng)心于一體。“一定要把手繡培訓(xùn)開展下去，讓手繡走向世界，展現(xiàn)美麗的中國(guó)文化。”

在王玉平的腦海里，手繡要拓展市場(chǎng)，必須走出國(guó)門。如今，王玉平除了以“爵繡品鑒會(huì)”的模式在各大城市推廣傳播手繡外，還走出了國(guó)門，走向了世界舞臺(tái)。她和她的團(tuán)隊(duì)先后赴美國(guó)、澳大利亞、德國(guó)、意大利、法國(guó)、瑞士、瑞典等國(guó)家演講和走秀，受到了歡迎，收獲了贊譽(yù)，影響力正在不斷擴(kuò)大。

與此同時(shí)，王玉平還想把繡服的技藝美、服飾美傳遞到每一個(gè)家庭。“我有一個(gè)愿望，就是要讓中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)手繡活起來(lái)、傳下去，用手繡藝術(shù)美化我們的生活，溫暖每一個(gè)家庭。”

Sitting down with Wang Yuping， an outspoken lady dressed stylishly， to discuss her embroidery works and dreams， was an interesting encounter to say the least.

“Do I look like a woman in my 60s？ A hand-made garment like this really makes me feel young and energetic. And this is my Chinese dream that I want to share with all the others，” Wang Yuping declares.

“Embroidery is not only art but also culture.” Wang Yuping grew up surrounded by the exquisite， colorful needlework of her skilled grandma， who learned the trade from some of the master embroiders in her hometown in southeastern Zhejiang Province. Wangs favorite pastime when she was a little girl was snuggling up next to her grandma and watching her tread the needle on a piece of cloth and churn out the most beautiful patterns the little girl could ever wish to see， like there was some kind of magic behind the stitches.

Tradition is fashion. “When I was a little girl I watched village operas a lot. I was fascinated by the dazzling colors of the costumes on the village stage， and dreamt of being on the stage in costume and make-up someday，” Wang recalled. In the eye of the girl， the beautiful handmade clothes were the synonym of happiness and solace， and took her breath away.

In her adulthood years， Wang realized her childhood dream had to play second fiddle to the serious business of raising children and putting bread on the table. She spent many years working with her husband to focus on their entrepreneurial routines， but had never put her embroidery dream behind her mind， contenting herself by collecting embroidery works for enjoyment and inspiration. The new start came when she was traveling in Hainan and walked into a clothes shop.

“It was eye-opening， just like all the thoughts over the years were put together to make me realize what I really wanted to do and what I could do to make my dreams come true. I spent quite a lot in that shop and brought home as many pieces as I could.”

For Wang Yuping， embroidery is not about making money or pursuing fame， but more about keeping this exquisite craft alive and finding people to pass the relay baton on to. “It takes patience and real passion，” Wang shares. Over the years， she has been trying her best to promote the craft by working with embroiders based in other cities， including Zhu Juncheng， an outstanding embroidery master based in Yangzhou， Jiangsu Province.

Keen to put her own stamp on this fine Chinese tradition， Wang Yuping launched her own embroidery company in 2018. The Hangzhou-based company has a embroider team， a design team and a model team of 13 members.

The dreamer has visited all of Chinas “embroidery cities” where she exchanged ideas with the local artists， learned more about the craft as well as its cultural prowess， and explored collaboration possibilities. Wang has taken in a few good apprentices over the years， some born in the 1990s. “What I want to achieve is to share the enormous beauty of Chinese embroidery not only with more people in China but with the whole world.”

Wang Yuping has brought her “Juexiu” brand and products to many cities in China， and has seen her models perform on the runways of many countries including the US， Australia， Germany， Italy， France， Switzerland and Sweden， where her embroidery works in various different styles of Chinese embroidery art have garnered a growing fandom.

“Chinese embroidery is all about beauty and class. It is much more than a craft in the museum. It is something that can be shared and appreciated by all people. Chinese embroidery is a symbol of oriental elegance and grace， and can work magic in womens fashion. It makes life more beautiful， and can bring out the best of feminine charm.”

Wang Yupings ambition also includes an embroidery museum.