Daxu：The Keeper of Time Along the Lijiang River

Mo Tingitng

The artistic conception of Chinese landscape painting can be well explained why Guilin， a shining pearl in the south of China， has won a high reputation in tourism. This is a land that makes man so happy to forget about the paradise， said by Han Yu， one of the eight best-known literary giants throughout the Tang （618-907） and Song （960-1279） Dynasties. However， if you want to have a glimpse of the history of China or authentically indulge into the Chinese culture， then visiting the small town of Guilin named Daxu is a must.

Recalling the impression of Daxu

Daxu （literally meaning “big market” in Chinese）， an ancient town with a history spanning about 2，000 years， was originally founded during the reign of Qin Dynasty （221 BC-207 BC） and became the richest town in Guangxi by the Northern Song Dynasty （960-1127）. Located on the north bank of the Lijiang River， the town was a very important shipping port for goods from across China， and became the leader of four renowned ancient towns in Guangxi as early as 600 years ago.

Depending on its strategic location， historically， Daxu was known as one of the four major harbors bordering the Lijiang River， hence its high number of traders and the importance of its market was famous all over southern China. The 13 docks that can still be seen in Daxu today are the testimonies of glorious age of Daxu. During the early Northern Song Dynasty （960-1126）， Daxu is a jewel for ancient buildings and temples. The Gaozu Temple and Hanhuang Temple that travellers can see in the town are namely buildings of Qing Dynasty style， catching the attention of everyone. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties， Daxu has already become a place gathering many merchants from north and south of China. Merchants from all over the place established guild hall here， like famous Cantonese Guild Hall， Hunan Guild Hall， Hiangxi Guild Hall and Mosque. The town reached its pinnacle of affluence during the Ming Dynasty and remained a wealthy town until the 1930s， when shipping was moved from the river to the railroad. Now all that prosperity has gone， leaving the town standing quietly by the Lijiang River.

As industry， technology and tourism grew and spread elsewhere in China over the last several hundred years， the ancient town of Daxu somehow managed to make time stand still and has maintained its antique architectures and traditional way of life. Today， Daxu Ancient Town has continued to thrive， albeit in a downsized mode. A flagstone street， lined with old residences， shops and stalls， runs two kilometers along the riverbank through the town. Underneath the stones is the main water system. Rain water flows under the street， hidden from view.

In addition， the ancient town has been revealed to the world since the shooting of many scenes of the film Liu Sanjie that has got a great fame all over China. As such， the area is now quite popular with many films and TV serials. The local food， customs， entertainment and traditional culture will also leave one with a lasting impression.

A touch of an unspoiled town

Daxu Ancient Town is famous for its rich culture and heritage， as well as the ancient architectures and bluestone streets in well condition. Though it is a quaint， off the beaten path town， Daxu offers many interesting sites to be explored. From ancient temples to stone streets to a historic market， Daxu is a paradise for lovers of history and antiquities.

Even though modernization has taken place all over China， Daxu Ancient Town has been able to maintain its traditions， ethics and culture in a very beautiful way， which is what， attracts the most of its tourists. It is really worth to walk on the cobbled streets to appreciate the ancient buildings along the street. It is a time-honored town with well preserved traditional Chinese architectures and the time-worn shiny stone-paved streets. Stretching about 2.5 kilometers in length， its street is noted for its bluestone pavement that is washed smooth by shoes， carts and rain running through the town. Every building has reasonable design so that it can use for business or residence， remembering the antique style of previous dynasties. Also， you can visit the traditional rice wine brewery and rice noodle factory there. Some well preserved residences hidden behind the street doors may give you a surprise when you occasionally explore further into a shop.

In the ancient town， there is a single-arched Wanshou Bridge and 13 docks built in the Ming Dynasty， offering breathtaking views of the Lijiang River. Among the 13 docks， five were preserved well and still in use.

The Seven Stars Tombs discovered in 2001 add an element of mystery to the ancient town. The seven tombs were arranged in the shape of the plough， which is the first example of this kind in China. And many interesting burial artifacts were excavated from the tombs.

Formerly one of the most important markets in the area during the Ming Dynasty， Daxu Market still thrives even if smaller today. You can enjoy browsing stalls that sell a variety of goods from traditional handicrafts like straw sandals and accessories to ceramics and souvenirs as well as Chinese medicines， foods and delicacies like quail eggs， fruits and dumpling snacks. You will then have a chance to visit a local craft workshop and see how local people make Chinese lanterns， paint the monkey mask or lion head. If time permits， remember to have a taste of the salted eggs， which is said to be enjoyed by Mr. Clinton， the former President of the U.S.， when he visited Daxu Ancient Town during his tour of Guilin. Moreover， chili sauce and osmanthus bean jelly are also popular local delicacies.

Although no longer a major shipping port， the towns culture and appearance is much as it has been for centuries. It is those people living in the town that really make this a special place. They go about their daily routines in a simple fashion that is so endearing. Taking the time to explore the towns back roads is well worth-while. Sometimes， a stroll will afford a leisurely glimpse into the traditional courtyard where granny are sometimes seen telling story to a huddle of small kids.