彌漫的鄉愁

尹晨

隨著春節腳步臨近，過年的氣息在浙西山區城鄉四處彌漫。傳統的美食、濃濃的鄉愁，召喚著在外打拼的兒女回家過年團聚。

打年糕、起糕干是武義特有的一種傳統美食，過年“打年糕、起糕干”在民間有“年年高”的寓意，為來年立一個節節高的好兆頭。每家農戶起碼做百斤大米年糕或糕干，通過浸泡、上蒸、翻蒸、打糕、揉擠、整形、搓粉、烘焙、點紅，做成年糕或糕干，待晾干后作為送親戚朋友的傳統禮物。因而打年糕、起糕干便成了祝福親朋好友年年登高的“好口彩”。

春節臨近，筆者來到武義南唐食府，正遇上這里在起糕干：大伙有的在搓米粉；有的在炭火旁烘焙；一位師傅不停地在方形的木框里均勻撒芝麻、添米粉，擠壓刮平，然后用鐵尺劃成一個個小方塊，一切就緒再放進蒸籠蒸，頓時熱氣騰騰，香氣四溢……“糕干作為武義的傳統美食小吃，也是一種鄉愁。自然許多上了年紀的人視糕干為對家鄉的思念和記掛。”采訪中，武義南唐食府負責人李建平如是說。正在幫南唐食府起糕干的金飛德接上了腔：對于糕干，60歲以上的人都有一種特殊的情懷，不光是它能勾起兒時記憶，同時也是一種美食文化。

在浙西山區一些地方，還有捏面塑、做棉花糖、剪窗花等很多習俗。新春佳節，這些具有深厚文化意蘊的傳統習俗讓人們依戀難以忘懷的鄉愁。

（本文照片由作者拍攝）

Rice Cake Brings Back

Past Taste

By Yin Chen

， a rice cake， is a traditional delicacy for the Spring Festival in Wuyi， a rural county in the west of Zhejiang. In the past， every household made the cake out of 50 kilo rice. The crisp sesame cake used to be a very good gift for relatives and friends who came to visit upon the Spring Festival. For those in their sixties， is a memory of their childhood years.

The tradition was out for various reasons in the last few decades. Some bakeries and food processing businesses in Wuyi still make the cake toward the end of the year on the lunar calendar.

Toward the Spring Festival， a journalist visited Nantang Restaurant in Wuyi. A group of chefs were making the rice cake. They were engaged in different steps of the procedure. Some were making the rice into rice flour； some were baking the cake upon the charcoal oven. A chef scattered sesame upon the cake in a large wood frame.

“Gaogan is more than a traditional delicacy. It is all about nostalgia. Many people who are not living in Wuyi think of it as something that brings them back home，” said Li Jianping， manager of the restaurant.

Also popular in the mountains in the west of Zhejiang are many traditions such as dough sculpture， fluffy candy， paper-cuts for the Spring Festival.endprint