沙漠腹地的綠洲

◇ 文圖|本刊記者 史宗偉

沙漠腹地的綠洲

◇ 文圖|本刊記者 史宗偉

“世世傳唱的歌謠傾訴著衷腸，飛揚神圣的蘇力德守望著故鄉，巍巍聳立的敖包呼熱胡寄托著向往，根固文明的薩拉烏素河靜靜流淌……”

歌聲將我們帶到了沙漠腹地，內蒙古鄂爾多斯市烏審旗。

烏審旗位于內蒙古自治區鄂爾多斯市西南部，地處毛烏素沙地腹部，毗鄰陜西省榆林市，這里文化資源豐富而厚重，是五千年中華文明的縮影。

2017年7月6日，33家國內知名畫報攝影記者走進古老而神奇的烏審旗，用3天時間親歷了沙漠腹地草原獨特的人文景象。

“The traditional songs reveal people’s innermost feelings,the flying sacred Sulide keeps watching the hometown,the erecting Aobao Hurehu expresses people’s longing for happy life and the Salawusu River carrying civilizations fl ows quietly...”

Songs bring us back to the hinterland of desert --Wushenqi,Ordos City,Inner Mongolia.

Wushenqi is located in the southwest of Ordos City in Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region.It is in the hinter-land of Mu Us Desert,adjoining Yulin,Shaanxi Province.It bears rich historical and cultural heritage,being the epitome of five thousand years of Chinese civilization.

From July 6 2017,33 photographersfrom China’s Pictorial Association,spent three days there where they enjoyed the unique human landscape of the grassland in the hinterland of desert.

千里敖包來相會

Aobao brings people together

二十世紀五十年代，一首《敖包相會》傳遍大江南北，敖包一度是愛情的象征。敖包，又稱“鄂博”“堆子”，形態各異，種類繁多。在蒙古族人心中，敖包象征神在其位，世襲傳頌。牧民們贊美家鄉，歌頌敖包，無論游子思鄉，抑或愛戀情熾都訴諸于敖包。

2006年，被確定為“中國?蒙古族敖包文化之鄉”。其中著名的“英雄敖包”胡熱呼敖包據說與成吉思汗出征西夏有關。流傳至今的胡熱呼禱詞，仍傳遞著人們對英雄的懷念。

烏審旗境內有170多座敖包，涵蓋了許多形制。

每年農歷五月十三日，牧民們著新衣、跨駿馬，聚集在敖包前，擺全羊、獻奶食，法號長鳴，鼓鈸大作，三拜九叩，口念頌詞，繞包三圈，敬獻哈達，招福祈佑。

In the 1950s,the song Meeting at the Yurt became popular all over the world,making Aobaothe symbol of love.Aobao or “Ebo”,“Duizi”has various shapes and types.Mongolians regard Aobao as a symbol of God eulogized by every generation.Nomads praise their hometown and Aobao.Wanderers’homesickness and deep feelings between lovers are both connected with Aobao.

There are over 170 Aobaos of various shapes in Wushenqi,thus naming Wushenqi“the home of Aobao civilization in China”in 2006.It’s said that the wellknown HurehuAobao is related to the story of Genghis Khan’s west conquest and the traditional Hurehu prayers are still delivering people’s love for heroes.

On May 13th of Chinese Lunar Calendar,nomads will put on new clothes,mount the fine horses and gather in front of Aobao.With cooked whole lamb and dairy productsserved,there will be continuing and exciting sounds of Tibetan horn,drums and cymbals,over which people walk around the Aobao three times,take bows and kowtows and pray,and also offer Hada,so as to pray for good luck and blessings.

詩書歌舞獨貴龍

Books,poetry,songs,dances and Duguilang

鄂爾多斯被稱為“歌海舞鄉”，烏審旗則是“歌海中的歌海，舞鄉中的舞鄉”。鄂爾多斯現存1300多首短調民歌中，有900多首出自烏審旗。牧民們自豪地說：“會走路,就會跳舞。會說話，就會唱歌。”

如果說音樂是烏審人的生活，詩歌則是烏審人的血脈。

青燈下，薩岡徹臣完成了傳世名著《蒙古源流》；牧野中，鄉土詩人賀希格巴圖揮筆寫就《可貴的獨貴龍》……烏審旗的牧民們始終保留著寫詩的習慣。

賀希格巴圖曾在詩中盛贊反帝反封建的“獨貴龍”運動，1962年，八一電影制片廠以此為藍本拍成電影《鄂爾多斯風暴》，鄂爾多斯從此為世人熟知。如今，烏審人民賦予了“獨貴龍”新的內涵。

Ordos is known as “home of many dances and songs”,while Wushenqi is “the home of most dances and songs in Ordos”.There exist more than 1,300 shorttune folk songs of Ordos,over 900 of which were created in Wushenqi.Nomadsborn in Wushen pride thatif onlythey can walk,they dance well,and if only they can speak,they sing well.

With music said to be the life of people in Wushenqi,poetry would be their vein that carries blood.

SagangChe-Chen finished his famous work ErdeniinTobchi,and HexigeBatu,a countryside poet,completed Valuable Duguilang...Nomads of Wushen keep the habit of writing poets all the time.

In the work of HexigeBatu,great tributes was paid to the anti-imperialism and feudalismcampaign Duguilang.In 1962,Bayi Film Studio shot the movie Storm over Ordos,taking the poem as the blueprint,which made Ordos better known overthe world.Today,people in Wushen have added new meanings to “Duguilang”.

神采飛揚蘇力德

Sulides standing in high spirit

烏審旗有9291戶蒙古族家戶，其中93%以上院落門前都立著蘇力德。蘇力德，原意精神之旗，傳說是長生天賜予成吉思汗的神物，后演變為神采飛揚、朝氣蓬勃之意等，是蒙古族人積極向上的精神動力。

據記載，1206年，成吉思汗統一蒙古各部，在鄂嫩河畔豎起了查干蘇力德——蒙古大汗國國旗。直至公元1634年，查干蘇力德一直受黃金家族和草原氈帳百姓的供奉。北元末代皇帝林丹汗逝世，其夫人和兒子投降金國，連同傳國玉璽、查干蘇力德一同押往盛京(今沈陽)。途經烏審草原時，負責保護查干蘇力德的察哈爾親兵不愿同往，隱匿在荒草中，遂使查干蘇力德留在了烏審旗，幾經沉浮，直到今天。

每天晨起，牧民點桑，吟誦《伊金桑》，祈禱新的一天神清氣爽、奮發努力，勤儉持家，一切順利。圍繞蘇力德祭祀文化，烏審旗擁有大量的神話、傳說、歌謠、民間故事，祝贊詞和禮儀、祭祀等民俗，是當之無愧的“中國蘇力德文化之鄉”。

Over 93% of 9,291 Mongolian families living in Wushenqi erect Sulides at their doors.The original meaning of Sulidewas the flag of spirit,which was sacred and given to Genghis Khan by MongkeTangri (the supreme god regarded by Mongolians).Afterwards,it represents vigor and high spirits,and becomes Mongolians’spiritual motivator to pursue better life.

It was recorded that Genghis Khan united all the Mongolian clans in 1206,and then erected the national flag of the Mongols,ChaganSulide,by Enen River.The flag had been worshiped by “golden family”(the Borjigin) and the average people until 1634.AfterLindan Khanthe last emperor of the Northern Yuan Dynasty died,his wife and son surrendered to Jin Kingdom.They were escorted to Shengjing (today’s Shenyang),and so were ChaganSulide and imperial seal of the Mongols; when they arrived at Wushen grassland,Chaha’er soldier was reluctant to continue the journey,so he hid in the dense weeds.Thus ChaganSulide was left in Wushenqi,and it still remains here despite some changes.

Every morning the nomads light some folium mori and sing Yijinsang (Eulogy to Genghis Khan),praying for brightness,diligence,shrift and smoothness.Wushenqipossessesnumerous legends,tales,ballads,stories,eulogies,along with customs like rites and sacrifices centered on Sulide culture,so it fully deserves the title of “China’s home of Sulide culture”.

Oasis in the Hinterland of Desert

Article | Pictures Shi Zongwei