The Pursuit of Thrift in the Southern Regions

Text by Hua Mingyue華明玥

The Pursuit of Thrift in the Southern Regions

江南惜物

Text by Hua Mingyue華明玥

In the southern regions, including Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Anhui Provinces, the tradition of being thrifty is still valued today.

The edifices of Huizhou merchants in southern Anhui look quite humble from the outside, but a journey inside one such edifice will take one through five or six rows of houses. The sky wells between each connected building are courtyards filled with herbs or other plants. Even droplets of water dripping from the eaves are gathered in buckets for raising goldfish, growing lotuses and watering flowers. Making the most of everything is a timeless virtue.

In Huizhou, there is a unique local stew made of white turnips and pig’s tailbone, which, after many hours simmering in a clay pot, makes a hearty and warming dish. Using a massive crock the height of a human resting over glowing coals, the locals prepare the nutritious soup to combat the natural humidity of the local climate. All the turnips are peeled beforehand so that the delicate fragrance and tender taste of the soup are not ruined by any bitterness.

Nevertheless, a problem arises when confronted with a basketful of turnip peels to dispose of every day. Should you just throw them away?

The locals believe that the essence of turnips lies in their peels. So, they pickle the sun-dried peels and turn them into a crunchy golden snack. Order a pot of tea in the city and you will be offered side dishes of smoked green beans, dried bean curd, turnip peels, and sunflower seeds free of any additives—a manifestation of the attention to detail and generosity of the locals.

In the southern regions, even sesame residue after oil extraction are sold in pieces as large as bowls to people who grow flowers. The elderly in this area are almost all “flower addicts.” They fill their balconies with jasmines, begonias, peonies, and Chinese roses. The gorgeous peonies thrive in the fertile soil, and the Chinese roses refuse to wither until winter is well due, with their long flowering period making them dependent on oil fertilizers.

Sesame oil shop owners will teach you with patience how much of an oil cake you need for each flower. Compared to fish intestines, the oil is a superior fertilizer. It is clean and does not have a lingering odor even when the flowers are brought indoors.

In fact, these areas are not naturally prosperous—southern Jiangsu is densely populated and has limited land, and southern Anhui and northwest Zhejiang are riddled with mountains. The key to their affluence may actually lie in the people’s thrift, with output from the land and water being fully and efficiently utilized.

(FromFortunately We Still Have Plum Cakes, Huazhong University of Science and Technology Press.）

蘇浙皖一帶，惜物的傳統(tǒng)至今仍在。

我們?cè)谕钅峡吹降拿孔丈檀笳饷娌⒉黄鹧郏锩鎱s有五六進(jìn)的房屋。每一重天井里，都種滿花木藥材，連屋檐上滴落的“天落水”，都收集起來(lái)，用以澆花、養(yǎng)金魚、種缸蓮。“物盡其用”一詞，是美德，絕不過(guò)時(shí)。

徽州的白蘿卜燉尾骨，也是燙心暖胃的瓦罐菜。主人用一人多高的炭火大瓦缸來(lái)燉這些補(bǔ)身的湯水，以驅(qū)除凹地的濕氣。所有的白蘿卜都要事先去皮，燉出來(lái)的蘿卜湯才鮮香清甜，沒(méi)有一絲苦味。

但問(wèn)題是，每天要削下一小筐蘿卜皮，全丟掉嗎？

徽州人說(shuō)，蘿卜的精華，全在皮中。他們把蘿卜皮曬干腌制，變成金橙響脆的美味。你點(diǎn)一壺茶，熏青豆、小方茶干、蘿卜皮和自家炒的、不加一點(diǎn)香料的葵花子，全部奉送。主人是何等精細(xì)，又何等慷慨。

在江南，連榨過(guò)香油的芝麻渣子，都分成碗大的一坨坨，賣給家中養(yǎng)花的人。江南的老人家多是“花癡”，會(huì)養(yǎng)一陽(yáng)臺(tái)的茉莉、海棠、牡丹和月季。牡丹有異色，全靠肥力足；月季從春到秋都在開(kāi)花，消耗太多，也是愛(ài)吃“葷”的。

香油店的主人會(huì)耐心教你，每棵花下埋多少芝麻渣。這比拿魚腸子漚的肥好，干凈，花盆放在家里也沒(méi)有異味。

說(shuō)起來(lái)，蘇南人稠地少，皖南多山，浙西北也是，條件并不算太好。但這些地方竟那么富庶，可能就在于，土地河湖里的出產(chǎn)，沒(méi)有一絲一毫的浪費(fèi)，全用在該用的地方。

（摘自《幸而還有梅花糕》華中科技大學(xué)出版社）