A Land of Intoxicating Charms

PURBO DORJE

Nyingchi is a land of enchanting beauty. Once there, its hard to leave, as there are so many places to visit.

Bome: A Poetic Land

In Tibetan, Bome means "grandfather". Located at the junction of the Himalayas and the Nyainqentanglha, it is surrounded by high mountains. Its central part is a river valley filled with thriving primitive forests. Bome covers an area of 16,578.24 square km, 29.5 percent of which is covered with forests, while 21.41 percent comprises glaciers and lakes. The river valley has an elevation of 2,000 meters. The county enjoys annual precipitation of over 900mm, with an average of 1, 563 hours of sunshine each year. The confluence of the Parlung Zangbo and Yiong, its major rivers, is at Tongmei, from where the combined waterway empties into the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon and then on finally to the Indian Ocean. The excellent weather conditions enable a wide variety of plants to be grown, covering more than 60 percent of the land. Dense forests provide a home to rare animals such as black bears, deer, monkeys, leopard, wolves, foxes, argalis, river deer, antelopes, yellow ducks and owls. Bome also abounds in medicinal herbs and highly nutritious edible fungus as well as fruit, vegetables and grain crops.

It takes at least one month for one to cover the entire area of Bome.

l Sipping spring water at Tongmo Village east of the county seat, which is believed to be good for the stomach;

l Taking a dip in the Longyahan Spring, which is believed to possess curative effect for arthritis;

l Visiting the cave in the Sangdobehui Mountain where Master Padmasambhava mediated;

l Enjoying the holiness of the Tara Mountain and the Sanggyidonggu Mountain, believed to incarnate 1,000 Buddhas; ......

Bome also possesses one of the three major glaciers in China, which is composed of a number of sub-glaciers known as Karqen, Zepur, Norgu, Midui and Guxiang Glaciers.

Yiong: Three Best

North of Tongmei is Yiong. Many go there to taste green tea and purchase long-handled Tibetan knives, which can hardly be found in other parts of Tibet. With an elevation of 2,200 meters, Yiong features a sub-tropical landscape with dense forests, emerald mountains, crystal clear rivers, and friendly weather. No wonder Yiong means "beautiful" in Tibetan. Of the many beautiful things unique to Yiong, three are obviously the best: Yiong Lake, green tea, and Tibetan knives.

l Yiong Lake. The lake water is so clear that the reflections of the surrounding snow-covered mountains and blue sky form a perfect Chinese landscape painting of the ink-and-wash type. The lake derived its water from a river flowing from Jiali, Nagqu, which became known as Yiong Zangbo River when it reached the Yiong area. In the 1930s, when the area was hit by torrential floods, rocks and sand blocked the river and Yiong Lake was created.

l Green tea. Yiong Mountain produces quality green tea which is loved by Chinese and foreign connoisseurs alike. Tea produced there is so tasty mainly because of good weather. The mountains that embrace Yiong are enveloped in clouds and fogs almost year round; daily sunshine is short; the average temperature is low; there is no frigid weather in winter and unendurably hot days in summer; the air is humid largely thanks to plentiful precipitation; the frost-free period is prolonged; the land is fertile but sandy, which is good for tea growing. Lab tests show green tea produced in Yiong contains elements good for health. It is sold under the brand name of "Qomolangmo Holy Tea."

l Tibetan knives. Locally forged "Yisiba" steel was used to make Tibetan knives in the past, and these are still popular today. Actually, such knives are made of an alloy of Yisiba steel and yellow, red and white copper. They are sharp and covered with beautifully designed patterns.

Sumzong: Horse Race

Sumzong is a tiny town east of the Bome County Seat, with some 270 households holding 1,300 people. It is home to the Sumzong Zhaxi Qoiling Monastery, towering over a sweep of flat land. In the north flows the Qoizong Zangbo River screened by majestic holy mountains with enchanting scenery. The monastery holds horse races during a summons ceremony on the 15th and 16th days of the third Tibetan month.

l Rituals. During the horse race, residents in their holiday best gather at the site with tents and food. When the auspicious smoke rises up in front of the monastery, lamas beat drums and cymbals, and carry the statue of Qamba Buddha in a sedan chair along the ritual walk route. The rituals thus begin, and all present on the occasion pray for good health, good weather and a bumper harvest.

l Horsemanship. When the sun rises high, horses lunge forward like arrows along the two-km route. The audience presents snow-white hada scarves to the first to finish. This is followed by displays of horsemanship. Galloping riders seek to pick up hadas on the ground, holding them high over their heads when they succeed.

l Song and dance performance. On the morning of the second day, when religious activities have been conducted, a large-scale song and dance performance is held to entertain the audience.

Lhunam: Better Than Hometown

In Tibetan, Lhunam means the Dragon King Gully. Located 70 km east of Bayi Town, skirted by the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, it stands at an elevation of 3,700 meters. Visitors to Lhunam call it an "Oriental Switzerland". Having crossed the Serji La Mountain, one walks 30 minutes to reach a piece of grassy land 15 km long and one km wide. A stream ripples down the mountain to greet the villages dotting the gully. The dwelling houses are built with wooden planks, and are surrounded by wood fences. Wooden plank bridges span the stream.... In April and May, azaleas are in full blossom against a backdrop of smiling wild flowers. All visitors agree this part of the world is more beautiful than their hometown.

Ngapoi Village: Expanded in 1880

Ngapoi Ngawang Jigmei is a vice-chairman of the National Committee of the Chinese Peoples Political Consultative Conference. His hometown lies 10 km east of Gongbogyainda. Standing at an elevation of 3,400 meters, it is called Ngapoi Village. Legend has it that the village was first set up during the period of the 8th Tubo king, and underwent expansion in 1880. Nowadays, the village has two small buildings with 16 rooms. Only 110 people in 28 households live there. During the slack season, they carry on weaving and transport businesses. During the Democratic Reform in 1959, Ngapoi spent his own money to build a bridge, which was named the Ngapoi Bridge, as well as a hydraulic power station.