Cambodian Smiles

by+Chu+Jiwang

I first visited Cambodia with my wife in December 2013. Without any previous impression of the country， I first noticed its poverty. “Shaking off poverty and finding prosperity should be the countrys top priority，” I thought.

The best place to learn about the history of Cambodia is undoubtedly Angkor Thom， the capital of the Khmer Empire from the 9th to 15th Century. Everyone who visits the place is amazed by its temples， both big and small. I was still stunned despite the fact that I have been to many famous temples in dozens of countries across the planet， not to mention those in China.

Of the many temples in Angkor， Bayon is the most spectacular. It consists of 49 towers， each featuring a four-face Buddha statue. Most Buddha statues have smiling faces， varying slightly in details – some look peaceful， others a little sad； some open their eyes， others close their eyes in meditation.

The statues feature typical Cambodian faces. Historians believe they were modeled after King Suryavarman VII， a devoted Buddhist who endured chaos from foreign aggression. He led the people to defeat foreign invaders after his accession to the throne.

Although a victor in battle， the king felt sorry for the dead， both on the enemy side and amongst his own people. He thus smiled with helplessness – a smile of sympathy， insight， and infinite tolerance. This historical anecdote explains why we see his face in the Buddha statues. His smile has been dubbed the “smile of Cambodia.”

Standing amidst the broken stone statues， my thoughts were yanked back 1，000 years. “What a great people！” I sighed. The structures and statues are magnificent and gigantic， showcasing the wonderful craftsmanship of Cambodian artists. I was deeply impressed by the “smile of Cambodia” – the pride of the Cambodia people.

Later， we visited Tonle Sap Lake， where we learned about life in modern Cambodia. Located at the juncture of Phnom Penh and Mekong， the lake is not far from Angkor. It is home to tens of thousands of households living along the water.

Tonle Sap Lake is embraced by stilted houses， narrowly elevated atop several wooden poles. When the tide rises， the water level increases all the way up to the floors of the houses. The more affluent build with cement columns. Some cover their roofs with iron sheets or asbestos tiles， but most are composed of straw or branches. They all lack windows and electric lights. Power comes from old generators. Most households have run-down furniture， including plastic tables and chairs. Often， the silver-haired elderly look after the house as well as their naked grandkids. People make a living by fishing.

“Most people are content though poor，”explained our tour guide. “They may have ten children if they like. Wives go fishing with their husbands soon after giving birth. Brothers and sisters look after their younger siblings. They live happy-go-lucky lives. We may be better off economically， but we have to work hard， for which they pity us. This is a major difference between people in terms of tradition and lifestyle.”

In only a day， we witnessed both the“smile of Cambodia” and “households on water.” My mind remained fresh with Cambodian history and life long after I left.