Pampered Poultry

The secret to Wenchang Chicken isn’t in the preparation—which is simple to the point of starkness—but in the chickens themselves， which are fattened up on a rich diet that normal livestock can only dream of. But it’s not all fun and games for the birds—according to a Qing Dynasty (1616-1911) book called《嶺南雜事詩抄》(L@ngn1n Z1sh# Sh~ch`o)， the key to real Wenchang Chicken was (drumroll) a kidney transplant:“Wenchang County chickens boast the most delicious taste， like game meat，” the book reads. “Cut out a rooster’s kidney and plant it in a hen’s abdomen. The roosters will no longer crow in the morning， while the hens will no longer lay eggs， and their feathers wither and die. But the meat is exceptionally fat and tender! As this method has been tried all over but only succeeded in one place， it’s earned the name Wenchang Chicken.”

Despite what sounds like a rather medieval operation， mature Wenchang chickens should ideally be the picture of health， with shining bright feathers， short wings and a plump body. Despite their rich diet， these birds are on the small side and usually weigh around 1.5 kilos—in this case， it’s quality， not quantity， that counts.

As with other Chinese signature dishes， Wenchang Chicken features in a few classic stories that give the recipe cultural clout. In the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644)， an officer from Wenchang County dedicated several of his hometown chickens to the emperor. After sampling the offerings， the emperor exclaimed:“These chickens are from a civilized place renowned for producing outstanding people; raised in such a place， the chickens have absorbed the richness of its culture. They truly deserve to be called Wenchang chickens!” (雞出文化之鄉(xiāng)，人杰地靈，文化昌盛，雞亦香甜，真乃文昌雞也! J~ ch$ w9nhu3 zh~ xi`ng， r9nji9d#l!ng， w9nhu3 ch`ngsh-ng， j~ y# xi`ngti1n， zh8n n2i W9nch`ng j~ y0!) With the imperial blessing secured， Wenchang Chicken gained prestige throughout China. Wenchang Chicken is usually made the baizhan (白斬， plain chopped-up) or baiqie (白切， plain and sliced) way， which involves first boiling and slicing the chicken， then dipping the pieces in cold sauce. This helps retain the chicken’s original taste while allowing the sauce to warm on the skin. Online， we list three sauces you can use: the first is salty with a touch of ginger and garlic spice; the second is sweet and sour; and the third sauce is a fragrant mix of ginger and spring onion. Whichever option you choose， don’t let all the painstaking preparation go to waste by skimping on the presentation. All the ingredients for the dipping sauce must be organic and fresh. Local people also use leftover chicken oil and broth to cook their rice， making the perfect side dish: Hainan chicken rice (海南雞飯 H2in1n j~f3n).

There’s a saying on Hainan Island that “if you don’t have Wenchang Chicken， a feast is impossible” (無文昌雞不成席 W% W9nch`ngj~ b ch9ng x!) or more colloquially， “it’s just not a party without Wenchang Chicken!”Here， we do our best to help you recreate its special flavor so you can get your party started without a hitch.

– julIng he (何菊玲)

A true wenchang chicken is no

ordinary piece of poultry. Unlike

their factory-farmed brethren，

wenchang chickens are raised

free-range and achieve their

buttery plumpness through a

rich diet of local sweets and fats. Folktales describe how the original wenchang chicken came from a

village called Tianci (天賜村) in the

town of Tanniu (潭牛鎮(zhèn))， wenchang County. Banyan trees abounded in

the region， and the villagers’ birds would roam unfettered beneath

the banyan forest canopy， pecking

at their nutritious seeds and

feasting on insects. Things are a

little less quaint nowadays. Local

chicken farms usually dispatch

purebred chicks to peasants to raise

free-range; then after 120 days，

the chickens are returned to the

farms and fed with a mix of rice，

sweet potatoes， peanut cakes and

coconut cakes for another 50 days. Though you’re sure to get the best birds in Hainan， chickens raised

the wenchang way are also widely

available in Guangdong Province and Hong Kong.

It’s What’s Inside that Counts

s e sa M e o i l

Sesame has been associated with longevity since ancient times in China， and modern science has revealed its oil contains various vital nutrients， such as Vitamin E， Vitamin B1， linoleic acid and protein. The high levels of Vitamin E help slow the aging process， while the linoleic acid keeps a lid on cholesterol.

o r ga n i c c h i c k e n Organic chickens are rich in protein， and free of many hormones and fat found in commercially raised poultry. Chicken also contains phosphatides， which help encourage growth and replenish blood cells， and are highly beneficial for the elderly or people who suffer from chills and fatigue.

s P r i n g o n i o n s

Spring onions not only embellish a dish’s flavor and color， they also possess antibacterial qualities and aid the break-up of phlegm， while the pectin helps suppress the growth of cancer cells.

g i n g e r

Ginger stimulates the mucous membrane of the stomach and intestines， helping to speed digestion， and can also help ease stomach pain， diarrhea and vomiting. During the winter， ginger warms the body by dilating blood vessels， and helps alleviate chills and problems associated with a build up of bacteria.

Wenchang Chicken

Find a pot big enough for your chicken， then fill with water and boil. Add the crushed ginger and spring onions.

Place the chicken in the boiling water for 10 seconds and then remove. Bring the water to a boil again， and repeat three times.

The third time， leave the chicken in the pot. when the water has

reached boiling point， reduce the heat and let simmer for a half

hour， or less if using a smaller bird. To check if the chicken

is done， stick a chopstick into

the flesh under the leg. If the

juice runs clear， the chicken is

cooked. If you are not sure， test with a meat thermometer.

Make your sauce of choice: spicy， sweet-and-sour or fragrant

(check our blog for sauce

recipes).

Transfer the chicken to a plate

and drizzle with sesame oil.

Leave it to cool before cutting

into bite size pieces. Serve

together with sauces and Hainan chicken rice (optional).