意大利五漁村:遠離塵囂的世外桃源

車水馬龍的城市，每天繁雜喧囂的汽車鳴笛聲不絕于耳。陶淵明“結廬在人境，而無車馬喧”的靜謐似乎已成為一種奢望。而在意大利的五漁村，它那地中海式的寧靜祥和與當地人的慵懶自得肯定會讓你忘掉時間的存在。

I’m up early in my favorite village on the Italian Riviera， as the morning sun touches the tip of Vernazza’s bell tower and greets a peaceful world. The air is damp， cool and refreshing as I wander downhill， passing underneath the train tracks. I enjoy the fact that the town is traffic-free， and realize that my favorite Italian towns are all this way.

FIAT-free Italy…just the way I like it.

The Cinque Terre—as this stretch of five towns along the Italian Riviera is called—is located in northern Italy between Pisa and Genoa， and it’s the under-appreciated alternative to the French Riviera. There’s not a museum in sight， just sun， sea， sand(well， pebbles)， wine， swimming， hiking， and pure， unadulterated Italy. Each town fills a ravine with a lazy hive of human activity—locals and visitors. While the Cinque Terre is now well discovered， I’ve never seen happier， more relaxed travelers.

Until the advent of tourism in this generation， the towns were poor and remote. Today， tourism stokes their economies and each is well connected by hourly trains. But traditions are resilient， there’s not a chain store anywhere， and each of the five villages comes with a distinct dialect and its own proud heritage.

To preserve the Cinque Terre’s natural and cultural wonders， Italy has declared the region a park. Visitors buy a cheap day pass to hike the scenic trail that laces together the unique communities.

Riomaggiore—the most substantial non-resort of the five towns-is a fascinating tangle of pastel homes that lean on each other like drunken sailors. A cliff-hanging trail leads from the beach to a hilltop botanical garden.

The next town， tiny Manarola， is a tumble of buildings down its ravine to the harbor. You can hike up to Punta Bonfiglio—for a bar on a bluff between the cemetery and the sea-or enjoy tasty treats born right here: pesto on your focaccia， washed down by crisp local wine sprinkled with Mediterranean twinkles. Talk about going local.

Corniglia is a quiet town—the only one of the five not on the water. From the train station， a footpath zigzags up nearly 400 stairs to the hilltop town. According to legend， a Roman farmer originally settled Corniglia， naming it for his mother， Cornelia. Residents claim Cornelia’s son produced a wine so famous. Still， today， wine remains the town’s lifeblood. Following the pungent smell of ripe grapes into an alley cellar， I find a local who lets me dip a straw into his keg.

Monterosso， the Cinque Terre’s only resort town， comes with cars， hotels， rentable beach umbrellas， crowds， and a thriving late-night scene.

With the closest thing to a natural harbor—overseen by a ruined castle and an old church—Vernazza is the jewel of the Cinque Terre. Its action is at the harbor， where you’ll find restaurants， a bar hanging off the edge of the castle， a breakwater with a promenade， and a street market every Tuesday morning. While the old men putter with their tough little boats， the day’s last bit of sunshine seems to sweep the old women and children into a warm corner in front of the church.

Leisure time is devoted to the evening stroll， as locals wander lazily together up and down the main street. After three days in town—sitting on a bench， gelato in hand， enjoying the endless“ciaos”and parade of neighbors—I feel a part of the scene.

I caps my Cinque Terre days on the breakwater with a glass of dessert wine. At midnight， the Mediterranean is darker than the sky—except for bobbing lanterns on the horizon. By night， old-school fishermen are seducing anchovies into their nets. By day， the same guys are seducing me with a way of life that refuses to give in to the modern world.

當晨曦輕撫韋爾納扎鐘樓的尖頂，對這個寧靜的世界敞開懷抱的時候，我在意大利里維埃拉最喜歡的村莊里，一大早就起來了。從下面的鐵軌穿過，我朝山下漫步，濕潤、涼爽、清新的空氣撲面而來。我喜歡這里沒有汽車行駛，并且意識到我最喜歡的那些意大利小鎮都是這樣的。

沒有菲亞特汽車的意大利……正是我所喜歡的。

五漁村——意大利里維埃拉沿線的這五個小鎮——坐落于意大利北部比薩和熱那亞之間，堪比法國里維埃拉，但還沒有得到人們的充分認識。在這里，目之所及，沒有博物館，只有陽光、大海、沙灘(當然，還有鵝卵石)、美酒、游泳、徒步旅行和純粹地道的意大利。每個小鎮的溝壑里都滿是慵懶的人群，有當地人，也有游客。雖然五漁村現在已被很好地開發，但我仍未看到比這里更開心、更放松的旅客。

在這一輩人發展旅游業之前，這些村鎮都貧窮而偏僻。如今，旅游業推動了其經濟的發展。按小時出發的火車把每個村鎮都緊密地連接在一起。然而，傳統的力量依然強大，這里沒有任何連鎖商店，五漁村的每個村莊都有其獨特的方言和引以為傲的歷史遺產。

為了保護五漁村的自然和文化景觀，意大利已宣布該地區為公園。游客們購買一張便宜的一日游通行券就可以沿著風景優美的小徑徒步旅行；這些小徑通往各座風格迥異的鄉村。

里奧馬焦雷，是五個村鎮中最不像旅游勝地的地方。色彩迷人的房子如喝醉酒的水手般亂糟糟地相互倚靠在一起。一條蜿蜒在懸崖峭壁間的小路從海灘一直延伸到山頂的植物園。 接下來的小鎮，是小小的馬納羅拉，那是一片從峽谷向下延伸到港口的雜亂建筑。你可以徒步爬到蓬塔·邦菲利奧，去一個建在公墓和大海之間的斷崖上的酒吧里坐坐，或者盡享當地原產的美味：在佛卡恰面包上抹上香蒜醬，痛飲地中海的閃爍星光飄灑在上面的清爽的當地美酒，談論當地的風俗民情。

科爾尼利亞是一座安靜的小鎮，是五個村鎮中唯一不臨海的。從火車站出發，沿著一條之字形的小路往上走大概400級臺階就可以到達這個山頂小鎮。據傳說，一個羅馬農民最先在科爾尼利亞定居，并以他的母親科妮莉亞的名字命名了這個地方。當地人稱，科妮莉亞的兒子發明了一種非常出名的美酒，直至今天，美酒仍然是小鎮的生命線。循著成熟葡萄濃郁的芳香走入小徑旁的一個酒窖，我看見了一個當地人，他讓我將吸管插入他的酒桶中，品酌美酒。

蒙特羅索，是五漁村中唯一名副其實的度假小鎮，于是隨之而來的便是汽車、旅館、可租用的沙灘太陽傘、擁擠的人群和繁榮的午夜勝景。

從一座廢棄的城堡和一個古老的教堂上俯瞰，韋爾納扎，作為離天然海港最近的地方，是五漁村的珠寶。它坐落在港口邊，你在這里會看到餐館、一個依著城堡邊緣而建的酒吧、一個建有長廊的防波堤和一個每周二上午開放的馬路市場。當老人們駕駛著他們牢固的小船四處閑逛的時候，白天的最后一抹余暉似乎將老婦人和小孩們都集中到了教堂前溫暖的角落里。

當地人的休閑時光都交給了晚間的散步，大家一起在小鎮的主路上來回閑散地漫步。我坐在長凳上，手捧冰淇淋，耳邊飄過無盡的“你好”，欣賞著散步的鄰居們列隊走過——就這樣呆了三天，我感受到了小鎮風景的一部分。

在防波堤上品酌著餐后甜酒，我結束了在五漁村的生活。午夜時分，除了海平面上不停晃動的提燈外，地中海的海面比天空還要黑。到了夜晚，老派的漁夫們會引誘鳀魚進入他們的網中；而白天，同樣是這些拒絕現代生活的家伙，以其遠離塵囂的生活方式引誘我一再停留。