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Mix & Match Lead Menswear Fashion Design

2012-01-01 00:00:00
China’s foreign Trade 2012年5期

For recent China International Fashion Weeks, menswear brand is no longer an ornament, and it brings masculine winds to the T stage with more and more menswear brands. In recent 2012/2013 China Fashion Week, these brands present the different temperament of a man with their Chic’s “Icy City”, Edenbo’s “Happy London”, and Cadini’s “Carthage Eagles” unique theme shows including “Beauty Berry Home” by Wang Hongtao, Cabbee. We found that while highlighting the design theme of the brand, they all focus on comfortableness and availability. Meanwhile, it is obvious that mix match and splicing become the mainstream idea for menswear fashion design.

Though Wang Yutao reproduced the theme of Beautyberry in Berlin Fashion Week, with a little change, the show gave us surprises. Models walk out in line in wears of gray and chocolate, altering the image of Wang Yutao’s rich-colored Beautyberry, and simple design, neat clipping, and straight lines bring a feeling of simple and grand. As a fashion show for autumn and winter, designers also use a lot of fur and feather, which is seldom to seen in previous shows but makes it more suitable for low temperature. Through mix and match of materials and choice of colors, fur and feather are well suited, fashionable golden removable long and short two-piece down jackets are practical. Fur makes a sense of warm by mixing and matching with other fabrics or as neckline adornment, luxuriant but not cumbersome.

Cabbeen Chic’s Icy City, incorporates super-fashion and polar hiking spirit, and presents the cleanness, pureness and crystal clearness of ice, snow and glacier with high-end tailoring and modeling. Spiffy coat, jacket and suit splicing with different materials, all show an idea of concise design, while the ornaments of golden zipper can add a little galant at the same time. Diamond splicing emphasizes these edges, widening and strengthening the lines of a man’s chest in visual, shaping a masculine character. Leather fabric with an inflated effect seems to be padded with high tech infilling, strengthening the confidence of warm-keeping; hair-felt fabrics and wool knitting garment can give a feeling of warm in visual in cold weather, crossing belt and band can strengthen the sense of wrapping up and protection. Dark and light green features this season of Cabbeen Chic, supplementing blue make the main color plumper, and matching plum on printings brings vigor and vogue. At the same time, Cabbeen Chic’s classic design of two-piece slim suits are still popular this season, but with different color matching, or being utilized in cold-proof waistcoat, which becomes a major choice for stacking dressing.

Since the Olympic Games will be held in London this year, Edenbo, known for its British style tells the story of happiness. Insisting on concise luxurious and exquisite British fashion, this brand adopts highgrade imported wool worsted and various skin texture fabrics, combined with leather and quality, exquisite and fit tailoring, demonstrating a man’s grace and confidence. Various high saturating and high bright color collocate give a visual shock in peace. Bold color matching, coupled with Pack Culture of strong structure design sense, the show started with an earth tone, warm orange red throughout the performance, altering by elegant cameo brown and colorless black, white and gray, forming a color series of sports theme. Meanwhile, the badge culture is incorporated in the design, filled the wears with joy and vitality.

“Carthage Eagles” was the theme for Italy Cadini 2012 Autumn/Winter Fashion Show. The idea was originated from Carthage, a city blending Mediterranean and African culture and with a long history. The design idea was summed as “retro”, “concise”and “delicate”. Taking grey, blue and black of different color gradation as the basic colors, and matched with red, orange, green, etc, the menswear design has a blending of luxury tone and medieval“dark ages”, resulting in burst of rich and charming color combination. Shining metal elements together with shading color and anaglyphlike pattern all features the design for this season. High quality fabrics are another feature, including exquisite and luxurious pashm and silk, thin and airpermeable fiber, mohair and alpaca, and functional fabrics. More ergonomic style, exquisite tailoring, 32 needle craft for shirt textile, and Cadini’s unique contrast color and slanted bar, all these reveal the strict requirement by a traditional Italian brand.

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