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“天上人家”的自然風(fēng)韻

2004-04-29 00:00:00宋長霞
走向世界 2004年3期

王石門村的特別之處在于其“高”——海拔851米,是山東省海拔最高的村莊,被譽(yù)為“天上人家”。這里有高山之巔的純樸民俗風(fēng)情,有古老原始的深谷幽林,有高峽平湖景致,整個(gè)村落在白云藍(lán)天、原始森林、山水的映襯下,如云中山寨、天上人家,置身于此,猶入人間仙境。

王石門位于萊蕪市境內(nèi),地處泰山東脈的連綿群山之中。據(jù)說,王石門村最初的居民是一家為財(cái)主看山的王姓窮人,剛到山上時(shí)沒有地方住,于是就地取材用石頭壘起了房子。因山上有狼,晚上為了安全,就搬塊大石頭堵住屋門,后來財(cái)主把山賞給了看山人,村子就叫“王石門”。王石門村至今已有150多年的歷史,全村83戶居民,260多人。

前些年,因?yàn)闆]有上山的路,外面的人很少光顧王石門,豐富的原始自然旅游資源無緣展示給世人。近幾年,全村村民在村支部書記馮玉璽的帶領(lǐng)下,齊心協(xié)力修建了一條上下山的通道,使這個(gè)閉塞的小山村走了出來,吸引了眾多的游人前來觀光旅游,體驗(yàn)農(nóng)家生活。

“天上人家”旅游區(qū)是齊魯峽谷群的主要景區(qū)之一,以原始生態(tài)和民俗旅游為特色,主要有九天大峽谷、石門大峽谷、槐花谷、九龍湖、瑤池等諸多自然景觀,區(qū)內(nèi)峽谷眾多、水域富集、森林茂密,生態(tài)環(huán)境保存完好。

九天大峽谷總長6010米,平均深度300米,最深處可達(dá)500米。峽谷內(nèi)完整地保存著原始的自然風(fēng)光。峽谷蜿蜒綿長,幽深玄奧,奇石、險(xiǎn)峰、飛瀑、流泉、密林連綴一體,是探險(xiǎn)的絕好去處。

走近峽谷,先聞水聲,逆水而上,曲折蜿蜒,踩頑石踏荊棘,涉澗越溝,不知不覺中來到一幽靜處,流水突然變緩,似一池狀,池水晶瑩剔透。人越往深處走,越覺空氣新鮮。在一片松林處,卻有四五百平方米的平地,實(shí)屬難得。松林內(nèi)地勢平坦,其間幽深寂靜,空氣清新潮濕,風(fēng)起時(shí),松濤陣陣,韻味獨(dú)特。透過密密的松林,可看到在峽谷南側(cè)有100米左右的峭壁,如一面石壁被人對(duì)折,下寬上窄,形同雙刀,掛在半空中,得名“雙刃崖”。過了雙刃崖,上走百余米,是一極險(xiǎn)峻處,有緊挨的兩處瀑布,一石洞將兩個(gè)瀑布相連。瀑布下面則是一個(gè)面積30多平方米、深3米左右的水潭。瀑布水流湍急,沖撞著巨石,水花四濺,水聲激越。兩邊石壁如削,雜樹滴翠,云蒸霞蔚,因峽谷南側(cè)巖壁上有一條赤色石紋上下延伸,勢如花龍飛天,故稱兩處瀑布為“赤龍雙瀑”。

九天大峽谷的極險(xiǎn)要地段,行走十分艱險(xiǎn),對(duì)每一個(gè)游人都是一個(gè)挑戰(zhàn)。勇敢者則需手腳并用,如蛇行石上方能越過。回頭望落在身后的瀑布,才覺挑戰(zhàn)的刺激與樂趣。難怪有游人感嘆:早知道此大峽谷,何必遠(yuǎn)征到巴蜀。九天大峽谷,過去是養(yǎng)在深閨人未識(shí)。現(xiàn)在它以自己高、險(xiǎn)、美的特色,正逐漸成為探險(xiǎn)者的樂園。

由王石門村北去1.5公里,即是石門大峽谷的西口。峽谷總長度3660米,平均深度200余米,最深處可達(dá)400多米,呈東西走向,峽谷內(nèi)依山勢已修成攀登小道。兩側(cè)山壁有陡有坡,不時(shí)有怪石突兀,松樹、平柳樹于巖石中鉆出,正覺山勢平緩之時(shí),忽聞雷霆之聲,前方山勢陡轉(zhuǎn),流水跳躍,是一瀑布,名作“翠巖瀑”,但見瀑布落差約20余米,水流湍急,水聲如雷,水花濺崖,兩邊巖石上的綠草翠樹嬌嫩宜人,不見山壁本色,但見滿眼青碧,令游客賞心悅目,翠巖瀑由此而來。沿翠巖瀑一側(cè)小心下行,陡覺峽谷深幽起來,而山勢也開始險(xiǎn)峻,兩壁上的草木茂密,使得峽谷內(nèi)鮮有光照。在一處狹窄陡峭的地方,但見兩側(cè)巖壁高達(dá)百米,并且層層相疊,像人工壘砌的一樣,最寬處也不過3米,宛若兩門洞開,又若壁石迸裂,舉頭望去,確有“一夫當(dāng)關(guān),萬夫莫開”之險(xiǎn),石門大峽谷由此得名。

石門大峽谷以林密景幽見長,剛覺山勢險(xiǎn)要、小路難行時(shí),忽又平坦起來,但松樹、平柳、槐樹多了起來,峽谷兩側(cè),有許多叫上名和叫不上名的雜草與野花。越往下走,覺得山勢越平,但樹林越秀,在樹林間、在流水中、在巖壁上,但見巨石橫臥,石依勢而安,樹擇隙而走,山石小者如袋,大者如屋,或臥埋地下,或相疊成形,奇趣盎然,引人入勝。

槐花谷占地350多公頃,每年五月來到槐花谷,就可欣賞到“人間五月芳菲盡,石門槐花始盛開”的絕妙景致。從王石門村出發(fā),沿山路蜿蜒西行,便可見到片片槐林。未到槐花谷,先看見王石門的柴雞養(yǎng)殖基地。在密林草叢中,始見一群群的雞在悠閑地散步,不時(shí)從草中啄食蟲子。一旦飼養(yǎng)員吹起哨子,就見雞群從四面八方涌來,圍在飼養(yǎng)員身邊,景象蔚為壯觀。

從養(yǎng)雞場沿山路南行,可進(jìn)入槐花谷,谷內(nèi)濃蔭匝地,遮天蔽日,廣闊幽深。地面則是雜草叢生,形成天然的綠色地毯。由于槐花谷特有的地理?xiàng)l件,氣溫在18℃左右,槐花比平原遲開15天左右,且花期長,可在10天左右。若趕到5月中旬到谷中游玩,正值槐花蓓蕾初放時(shí)節(jié),串串白色槐花懸于枝頭,宛若雕刻而成的玉花,整個(gè)槐花谷內(nèi)香氣濃郁,沁人心脾,蝶戲蜂舞,令人賞心悅目。王石門村在每年5月份槐花盛開時(shí)節(jié),舉辦具有濃厚地方特色的“槐花節(jié)”。

槐花谷內(nèi)還有孔雀寺的遺址。據(jù)傳唐朝時(shí)有位名叫“惠凈”的游方高僧途經(jīng)香山,十分喜歡,意欲長留。但香山上的廟宇已有僧侶占據(jù),正當(dāng)惠凈考慮何處安身時(shí),忽然看到槐花谷的槐樹叢中徐徐飛起一只孔雀。于是,他認(rèn)定此處風(fēng)水極佳,決定在此安身,隨后四處化緣,募錢在孔雀飛起的山上建了一座寺院,取名“孔雀寺”,現(xiàn)還能看到當(dāng)年的遺址,這座山被稱為“孔雀寺山”。

王石門旅游區(qū)與濟(jì)南紅葉谷景區(qū)、跑馬嶺野生動(dòng)物園、七星臺(tái)植物園等在同一條線路上,從濟(jì)南乘車到此地只需1個(gè)小時(shí)左右。旅游區(qū)有整潔衛(wèi)生的農(nóng)家賓館,可吃在農(nóng)家、住在農(nóng)家,在享受自然景觀的同時(shí)體驗(yàn)農(nóng)家的鄉(xiāng)俗民情。

With an altitude of 851 above sea level, Wangshimen Village, located in the territory of Laiwu City in Shandong Province, is the highest village in Shandong Province. So it is also renowned as the “Heavenly Household.” Boasting pure and simple folk customs, virgin forests, lakes on the mountains, and mountainous scenic spots, this is truly a fascinating tourism spot.

Legend has it that the earliest dweller in Wangshimen Village was a poor man named Wang, who resided here to protect the mountain for a rich man. When he came up to the mountain for the first time, having no residence, he constructed a house from stones he found on the mountain. In order to prevent an invasion from wolves during the nighttime, he blocked the door with a big rock. Later, the rich man granted the ownership of the mountain to the poor man, and since then, the village on the mountain was called Wangshimen, which means “Wang’s Stone Gate.”

Up to now, Wangshimen has a history of more than 150 years; and, currently, there are 83 households and some 260 villagers living here. In past years, since there was no paved road leading to the village, few outside people visited and the rich primitive and natural tourism resources found here were also isolated. In recent years, however, headed by Feng Yuxi, secretary of the party branch of the village, and with concerned efforts from all the villagers, a road has been constructed up the mountain, which allows more tourists to have th opportunity to access the mountain village and experience the special mountainous life here.

The tourism area of this “Heavenly Household” is one of the scenic spots of the Qilu Canyons Group, which is featured by the virgin ecology and folk tourism. The scenic spots located here mainly include the Jiutian Grand Canyon, Shimen (Stone Gate) Grand Canyon, Huaihua Canyon (Chinese Scholartree Canyon), Jiulong Lake (Nine Dragons Lake), and Yao Pond. With so many canyons and the dense virgin forest, the ecology here is completely well preserved.

The Jiulong Grand Canyon stretches a distance of 6010 meters with average depth of 300 meters. The deepest place is 500 meters. In the canyon, the primitive natural sceneries are completely well preserved. Peculiar rocks, perilous peaks, cascades, spring waters, and primitive forests provide a good venue for exploration.

The steep section of the Jiulong Grand Canyon is a challenge to every tourist to cross. Even for a brave tourist, he must apply to his hands and feet simultaneously and zigzag over rocks if he hopes to cross this section safely. After traversing this perilous place, when he looks back at the cascade behind, the climber can feel the excitement of adventure and accomplishment produced by the challenge. So, some tourists have remarked emotionally that if they had known of this grand canyon earlier, they would not have ventured far away to tour in Sichuan, which is famous in China for its steep mountains.

About 1.5 kilometers to the north of Wangshimen Village is the western entrance to the Shimen Grand Canyon. Stretching a distance of 3660 kilometers from east to west, this canyon has an average depth of some 200 meters, and the deepest place is about 400 meters. Along the canyon walls, the intrepid trekker will find mighty boulders, steep rock peaks, fragrant pines, and flowing willows. Secure pathways have been constructed through the canyon to assist exploring tourists.

The Shimen Grand Canyon is famous for its dense primitive forests and abundant stone formations. Walking in the canyon, when you feel the mountain steep and the path difficult to walk, suddenly, you will find a flat path in front of you. Besides pines, willows, and Chinese scholartrees on both sides of the canyon, there are so many kinds of grasses and flowers to be discovered that not even the local people know all their names. The deeper you move into the canyon, the flatter you find the terrain, and the more beautiful the forests you see.

The Huaihua Canyon covers an area of more than 350 hectares. When coming here in May every year, you can stand enthralled within the dense Chinese scholartree forests and appreciate their blossoming flowers. Special geographic conditions within the canyon makes the temperature hold steady at about 18 degrees Centigrade all year round. The Chinese scholartree flowers blossom about 15 days later than the flowers in the plains areas and last about 10 days, which is longer than elsewhere. If you tour around this canyon in the middle of May, you can see the blossoming Chinese scholartree flowers and attend the “Chinese Scholartree Flower Festival.”

In the Huaihua Canyon, there is a cultural relics site at the Peacock Temple. Legend has it that in the Tang Dynasty, when a monk called Hui Jing passed by Mount Xiang, he liked the place so much that he wished to stay here. However, the temple on Mount Xiang had already been occupied by other monks. When Hui Jing was considering where to settle his home, suddenly, he saw a peacock flying from the Chinese scholartree forest in the Huaihua Canyon. So, he thought that this was a lucky place, and decided to settle his home here. Hui Jing then constructed the Peacock Temple.

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